This dark, downstairs bar, formerly called Whistling Shop, intimately recreates the gin palaces of the early Victorian era. And while the decor is faithful to the era, the cocktails offer a modern twist on the old classics: there’s even an in-house steampunkish laboratory where the mixologists create their intriguing concoctions. “Drunk For a Penny, Dead Drunk for Two Pence, Straw for Free,” offers the menu, with a wry wink to the promises made to customers at the height of the gin craze and memoralized in William Hogarth’s illustration Gin Lane.