Bangkok

Bangkok is the heart of Thailand, an intoxicating city where modern mega-malls filled with fashion-fixated locals exist mere minutes from tranquil, gold-spired temples and chaotic wet markets. Food—whether noodles from the famous street-food stalls or haute cuisine at a luxury restaurant—is a highlight for many visitors, fueling them for shopping sprees or forays into the pulsing nightlife. It may be hot, polluted, and sometimes frustrating, but the Thai capital is never ever boring.

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Photo Courtesy of Sven Scheuermeier

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Bangkok?

In short, Bangkok is hot year-round so there’s not really a season in which you’ll wish you’d brought a heavier jacket. That said, the coolest, most pleasant time to visit is between November and late February. In March, the heat and humidity ramp up again and last through May. The annual southwest monsoon sweeps in from the Indian Ocean some time between May and July and lasts into November, bringing heavy rains and some local flooding. (Happily, the towns along the Gulf of Thailand follow a different weather pattern and can provide a welcome escape from the downpours.)

How to get around Bangkok

Bangkok is one of Southeast Asia’s main air hubs, and dozens of airlines fly regularly between the city’s Suvarnabhumi Airport and the USA, Europe, Australia, and other parts of Asia. The Thai capital is also easily accessible from such nearby countries as Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, and Singapore via long-distance buses or trains.

To get around the city, Bangkok’s thousands of taxis are great value, though the volume of traffic on city roads makes the going slow at peak times. A better option for negotiating the main tourist areas like Siam and Sukhumvit is the city’s BTS Skytrain, an elevated rapid-transit system that is both convenient and relatively inexpensive.

Can’t miss things to do in Bangkok

The debate over where to find Bangkok’s best pad thai is fierce, but Thip Samai Pad Thai, in the Phra Nakhon area, has many fans. The restaurant serves variations on just one dish—pad thai—fried over charcoal in the traditional way.

Food and drink to try in Bangkok

Dollar for dollar, Bangkok may well be the world’s finest dining destination. A large part of the city’s culinary fame is attributable to its incredible street food. Vendors serving an array of delights—tender barbecued chicken, complex curries, rice and noodle dishes, tropical fruit—can be found on practically every soi (side street). Favorites include the ubiquitous pad thai (rice noodles fried with egg, tofu, shrimp, and tamarind pulp) and som tum (spicy green papaya salad). You may not know where to start, but you certainly won’t go hungry. The city’s restaurant sector, meanwhile, is also upping its game, with both homegrown and international options to wow critics from any city in the world.

Culture in Bangkok

In Thailand, all roads lead to Bangkok. The capital is the nation’s political center, its spiritual and cultural hub, and a magnet for migrants from all over the country. The country is 95 percent Buddhist, and Bangkok is blessed with hundreds of temples, from humble pagodas to grand, gold-spired complexes. Thais do a fine job of balancing the spiritual and the earthly, however, and just as strong as these religious beliefs is the emphasis on sanuk, the idea that life should be fun.

Temples are an essential part of any itinerary, and it’s important to be versed in some cultural etiquette before exploring them. The basic rule of thumb is to respect tradition and dress conservatively. You don’t need head-to-toe formal clothing, but your shoulders and knees should be covered.

Traditional Thai festivals are a highlight for visitors to Bangkok. The river festival, Loy Krathong, takes place in the twelfth month of the Thai lunar calendar (it usually falls in November) and involves fireworks, lanterns, and thousands of floating offerings to the river spirits on the Chao Phraya river. Songkran, or Thai New Year, occurs in April and is a raucous celebration in which locals and visitors drench each other with water in the name of good fun.

Practical Information

- You can skip securing a visa for stays of 30 days or less. As long as you have a passport (valid for at least six months after your arrival) and an airline ticket that makes it clear you’re not planning to stay, you’re welcome.
- The primary language is Thai, though there are numerous regional dialects.
- The currency is the Thai baht.
- Outlets are 220v and offer outlets for both flat and rounded two-pronged plugs.

Guide Editor

AFAR Editors, with a shared passion for Bangkok, collaborated on this guide.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
These are the best places to stay in Bangkok, whether you’re looking for a contemporary boutique hotel or a riverside grande dame.
The historic hotel on Bangkok’s riverbank is one of the oldest properties of the brand . . . and now, after an extensive $90 million renovation, one of its newest.
From shopping sprees in Singapore to thumping clubs in Berlin, the world is full of cool cities that move to the pulse of pop culture. Staying at the right hotel is one way to find the hippest places to eat, shop, and play.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Gaa
Gaa is located directly opposite Gaggan, Bangkok’s most famous eatery, which was named the best restaurant in Asia in 2017. The brains behind the venture is Garima Arora, former sous chef at Gaggan and chef de partie at Noma. A native of Mumbai, Arora doesn’t shy away from her Indian roots. They are balanced, however, by international influences, including prominent Thai flavors. As you would expect from someone with her pedigree, Arora gives full rein to her creativity throughout the tasting menus (10 or 14 courses), with dishes such as grilled pork ribs marinated with split-pea miso and served with chopped shallots, spring onions, and pomegranate seeds showcasing her talent.
One of Thailand’s most loved dishes, som tam (green papaya salad) is ubiquitous in Bangkok, with vendors across the capital pounding together the essential components of shredded fruit, garlic, fish sauce, palm sugar, and lots and lots of chili. One of the best places to sample a truly delicious version is this friendly venue tucked away in the backstreets of Silom. Besides serving their versions of som tam, a gargantuan barbecue produces beautifully smoky grilled chicken wings. While these are the stars of the show, the restaurant also does a winning line in other classics from northeast Thailand such as kor moo yang (grilled pork neck).
Already a landmark on the Bangkok skyline, the 77-story MahaNakhon tower was designed by the Dutch firm OMA and opened at the end of 2016. The mixed-use tower encompasses the Bangkok Edition Hotel, nearly 50 floors of the super-luxury Ritz-Carlton Residences, and the MahaNakhon Observation Deck, offering tourists 360-degree views of Bangkok from its top four floors. At the base of the tower, the MahaNakhon Cube is home to markets and restaurants such as Dean & DeLuca and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon.
With its wild, lush wetlands, Thailand is home to numerous species of snakes: pythons, cobras, and kraits, to name just three. While many of the country’s snake farms are not what you would call prime examples of animal rights at work, the Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute is way more ethical than most. Two hundred species of snakes, including king cobras, are on display, and there’s a facility that produces anti-venom as well as an animal toxin clinic for treating people bitten by other poisonous critters. Visitors can also attend snake-handling performances in the outdoor amphitheater and observe the snake milking process at daily public demonstrations.
Among the most loved and respected purveyors of fine antiques and Thai art is OP Place. Built in 1908, OP Place features a plethora of art galleries and shops offering a spectrum of wares ranging from Asian handicrafts to jewellery, fabrics, antiques, artworks, Thai silk and carpets. Even if you’re not in the market for antiques, the building itself deserves a visit. Neoclassic architecture and a manually operated lift add to the sense of grandeur.
The unofficial world capital of massage, Bangkok has no shortage of choice venues for kneading, pummeling, and pampering. Nonetheless, some places stand out above others. A case in point is the Oasis Spa, which offers one of the most idyllic spa experiences in the Thai capital. Hidden away down a quiet soi (small street) in the Sukhumvit area, the spa’s cool white buildings have 12 treatment rooms with louvered wooden doors and are surrounded by lush greenery, lotus ponds, and water features. The meditative atmosphere is the perfect setting for a range of treatments that include signature massages, body scrubs, facials, and hydrotherapy.
The undisputed king of Bangkok dive bars, Wong’s Place has a character of its own. It’s hard to describe exactly why you should go to this hole-in-the-wall institution near Lumpini Park. The furniture has seen better days, the toilets are nobody’s idea of a treat, and the service ranges from eccentric to downright surly. The fact that it is now one of the few venues in the city that remains open until the wee hours might explain its popularity. But really, it’s the fact that—for all its faults—the bar retains an unpretentious “up-for-it” vibe that is largely missing from more refined places. On quiet nights, there’s not a lot to recommend it, but visit on weekends and there’s a good chance you’ll fall under its beguiling spell.
Experience the khlongs, or canals, of the “Venice of the East” on a longtail boat and you’ll get a special look into the heart of Bangkok. Most of Bangkok’s waterways were dug in the 18th and 19th centuries, and while some have been filled in and paved over, there are still an amazing number to explore. Several of them, such as Khlong Saen Saeb, go through the center of the city, and the Khlong Bangkok Yai, on the western side of the Chao Phraya, cuts through one of the oldest parts of town. Many tours leave from the central piers on the river and are no more than a couple of hours long.


The true nature of old Bangkok can’t be sampled at its busy malls and modern shopping districts, but in enclaves such as this timeless thoroughfare in Chinatown. A narrow pedestrian lane, Trok Issaranuphap links two of the area’s main streets, Yaowarat Road and Charoen Krung Road, with Sampeng Lane, another pedestrian-only street filled with small department stores. It’s a portal to the traditional side of the city, especially for those who want to sample street food, as it is filled with stalls and vendors purveying tasty Chinese/Thai snacks and meals such as roast pork and duck and dumplings. The alley’s wet market is a great place to purchase fruit and vegetables. Other attractions include traditional-medicine shops, fortune tellers, and stalls selling assorted bric-a-brac.
Head chef Bee Satongun and co-owner Jason Bailey, a husband-and-wife team, are dedicated to bringing back lost recipes and techniques of heirloom Thai cooking. Paste is one of Bangkok’s most exciting Thai restaurants, and the Michelin judges have duly noted that fact by gracing it with a star. The cuisine is based on century-old family recipes served with innovative twists and an attention to detail that make it as aesthetically pleasing as it is delicious. Signature dishes include black cod poached in duck lard and larb salad with pheasant, hog plum leaves, and edible flowers, but really everything is good.