San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende, in the heart of colonial Mexico, is an attractive city that has drawn visitors for nearly 100 years. Its color and charm have prompted many visitors to return as permanent residents; many of them are artists and writers contributing to the city’s cultural milieu. Though it’s not the easiest place to reach, loyalists—and they are legion—contend that if you reach San Miguel, your first visit is unlikely to be your last.

Image of an old church tower in the background with potted palms on a balcony in the foreground in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Tania Ramirez/Unsplash

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende is a classic colonial Mexican town, meaning it’s full of landmark sites just waiting to be explored by curious, enthusiastic visitors. Cobblestone streets lead to architectural achievements dating to the 17th and 18th centuries, structures that gave UNESCO impetus to designate San Miguel a World Heritage Site. While there, don’t miss iconic sights like La Parroquia, a neo-Gothic church that is just as interesting when seen from above (via rooftop bars or the hill above town) as at ground level. And don’t dismiss the possibility of exploring just beyond the town; El Charco del Ingenio is a nature preserve offering opportunities for immersive outdoor and cultural experiences.

Food and drink to try in San Miguel de Allende

There’s a little bit of everything when it comes to eating out in San Miguel de Allende. From modern Mexican at popular upscale restaurants like Moxi—the San Miguel eatery of star chef Enrique Olvera—to highly-ranked Japanese, Thai, Peruvian, and Argentinean restaurants, you’ll find chefs eager to share their considerable talents with you. A large variety of international sweets can be found here, especially at the bakery El Petit Four. And if you’re looking for drinks in atmospheric settings, the rooftop bars La Azotea and Luna can’t be beat—especially at sunset.

Culture in San Miguel de Allende

Important chapters in Mexican history were written in San Miguel de Allende, whose very name references one such chapter and its central protagonist: Ignacio Allende, a Spanish Army captain who ultimately embraced and advanced Mexican independence. Colonial influences are visible throughout the city, primarily in its well-preserved architecture, which was one of the justifications for UNESCO’s 2008 designation of San Miguel as a World Heritage Site. But contemporary San Miguel also reflects the influences of its large expat population. Artists and writers, most of them from the United States, have flocked here for decades, making their mark on cultural life and serving as the impetus for the city to be as bilingual and bicultural as it is.

Shopping

Arts and crafts are the thing to buy in San Miguel de Allende, and despite—or perhaps because of—its large expat population, San Miguel’s traditional and local crafts thrive, and are widely available at local markets, galleries, and workshops. Look for products made of wool, wood, and metal at the town’s artisan market. Contemporary crafts and artworks are available, too, both by expat and Mexican artists; one excellent place to find them is at Fabrica La Aurora, an art and design center located in a former textile factory. Today, it’s home to more than 40 galleries and shops, and artists host open studios in their workshops each week.

Practical Information

San Miguel de Allende, located in the state of Guanajuato, is one of the key cities in Mexico’s colonial heartland. However, it’s hardly the most accessible by air; the closest airports are Querétaro (QRO) and León (BJX), approximately 45 and 70 miles away, respectively. Renting a car at the airport is recommended, but be aware that parking in San Miguel is limited. Temperatures average between 74 and 81 degrees year-round, making the city an excellent four-season destination. Bring layers, though; mountainous environs make for quick temperature changes. The official language is Spanish and the currency is the Mexican peso. Tipping is appreciated in restaurants and for hotel and taxi services. Voltage is the same as in the United States.

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It’s a mouthful to pronounce, but it’ll prove to be among the most authentic San Miguel experiences you’ll ever enjoy. The city hosts over 700 weddings annually, and the prelude to almost every ceremony is a callejoneada, a parade in which the wedding party wanders through cobblestoned streets, tequila in hand, smiles alit, and voices singing. Giant mojigangas—papier-mâché puppets towering 10 feet in the air and dancing wildly—will visually announce the callejoneada, then you’ll start to hear the mariachi tunes. An adorable burro, adorned with colorful paper flowers, pulls a tequila cart from which all attendees indulge. The spirit is contagious, even watched from the curb.
It is easy to indulge yourself without too much guilt in San Miguel—walking the town’s hills burns up plenty of calories. The restaurant Cumpanio operates three local bakeries, each called Panio (pictured here), which make out-of-this-world croissants, tarts, and cakes. San Miguel’s longtime stalwart bakery Petit Four serves many more tasty options than the namesake sweets. Enjoy baked goods served family-style at a large community table at Robin’s La Mesa Grande. Don’t worry when La Buena Vida sells out of its famous orange doughnuts, because more are made throughout the day. You can find a couple of the best purveyors of sweets with your eyes: Panadería El Maple is known by its Canadian maple leaf sign, while everyone calls La Colmena “The Blue Door Bakery,” for its impossible-to-miss entry.
Mexico is the birthplace of one of the world’s most delectable indulgences, chocolate, and it abounds in San Miguel. For unbeatable souvenirs, consider the gourmet sweets from JOHFREJ C&V chocolate shop: like the hand-hammered metal-plate boxes of pralines (in walnut, almond, or hazelnut), truffles (don’t miss the chili-tinged ones), or enjambres (chocolate and nut clusters; the pine nut variety is obscenely good). If it’s hot chocolate you’re after, though, line up for the churros and hot chocolate at Café San Agustín.
Shoppers with a discerning eye can find surprisingly stylish clothes in San Miguel…the ladies, that is; high-style men’s offerings are rarer. For something uniquely chic, try Angela’s exotic handpainted dresses at Sindashi, where different creators present everything from blossoms to Greek keys or motifs inspired by Mexico’s indigenous traditions in their quest for true “conversation pieces.” You’ll find the latest in Mexican couture as well, at Bendita, and updated serapes at Recreo. Patrice’s Abrazos carries items in colorful Mexican prints, everything from aprons to shirts. Get that bohemian look at Marcia’s Agua de Coco, or head to Girasol Boutique for linen clothing.
San Miguel is chock-full of unique shops offering everything including art, antiques, collectibles, and trinkets. There’s something for everyone, from furniture to jewelry, at Mixta, a shop housed in a beautiful 18th-century structure on Calle Pila Seca. The idea—as the name suggests—is to mix local design with international ideas. As you find yourself seduced by the shop’s mishmash of old photography, shawls woven by an indigenous women’s cooperative, designer dresses, reproduction Eames chairs, silkscreen-print handbags, and colorful Chiapaneco table linens, the common denominator shines through, bright and clear: a brilliant eye for beauty.
Much of a restaurant’s appeal can be atmosphere, and no man-made decor beats a natural canopy of stars—a lovely sight made even better when supplemented with a church spire, or three. Locals welcomed the opening of Quince Rooftop, featuring a reach-out-and-touch-it view of the Parroquia, especially dramatic when seen at night. Add to all that chef Gonzalo’s classic recipes; he returned to his native San Miguel after a stint at New York’s Rainbow Room. To mention just a couple of standouts on the menu, there’s the perfectly cooked rack of lamb or a rib eye steak in a sauce of huitlacoche—a tasty, mushroomlike fungus that grows on corn.
Visitors often want to bring a souvenir from San Miguel back to the kids or friends at home...nothing too elaborate, but authentic nonetheless. Head to the three-block Mercado de Artesanías for a leisurely stroll amid the stalls. Start at the west end and work your way east to find silver, crafts, jewelry, pottery…if it fits in a suitcase, you can buy it here. To the east of the artisans’ market, visit the Mercado Ignacio Ramírez, where you’ll find head-high pyramids of fruits and vegetables, perfect for great photos; nightstand-worthy flowers; and food stalls offering everything from custom-made licuados—think smoothies, Mexican style—to peeled cactus leaves freshly prepared for a nopal salad. Good hunting!
San Miguel is known as a community of artists, but to fully appreciate that understatement, every traveler should get closer to the city’s arts community. This village is a place where many have reinvented themselves as the next Picasso or Basquiat. First stop? The art galleries at Fábrica la Aurora, where visitors browse, shopping to add to their collections, with choices from the genres of painting, drawing, and sculpture. Longtime local favorites include Peter Leventhal—whose Rubenesque nudes adorn many a wall across the globe—and his wife, multimedia artist Terra Mizwa; abstract artist Merry Calderoni; and Annie Evans, whose sculptures of devilish women are mesmerizing. Art galleries also abound in the Centro and nearby San Antonio district. Events calendars detail monthly art walks.
Central Mexico’s Bajío region—San Miguel sits at its heart—is high mountain desert, with a landscape quite worthy of exploration. The 445-acre nonprofit nature preserve called El Charco del Ingenio—named a Peace Zone by the Dalai Lama in 2004—is a prime destination for nature lovers, thanks to miles of trails, an extensive botanical garden, and a fascinating wetlands preserve. Spend all day if time allows—an on-site café provides nourishment to keep you going.
In the daylight, tacones (high heels) can be dangerous on cobblestoned streets, but during a night on the town, they’re great for dancing. San Miguel offers something for everyone’s taste. Salsa lessons can be enjoyed at places like Hacienda Guadalupe. Live music, at clubs like VC & Friends and on rooftops like Quince or Bond’s 007 Gin Bar, brings out everyone’s best Travolta moves. The younger set opts for the dance floors at El Grito and Mint, where the velvet rope amps up the Manhattan factor. That said, what happens on the dance floor at Cent’anni (pictured here)—even after a comforting Italian dinner—tends to be much more impromptu, lively, and festive.