San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende, in the heart of colonial Mexico, is an attractive city that has drawn visitors for nearly 100 years. Its color and charm have prompted many visitors to return as permanent residents; many of them are artists and writers contributing to the city’s cultural milieu. Though it’s not the easiest place to reach, loyalists—and they are legion—contend that if you reach San Miguel, your first visit is unlikely to be your last.

Image of an old church tower in the background with potted palms on a balcony in the foreground in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Tania Ramirez/Unsplash

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende is a classic colonial Mexican town, meaning it’s full of landmark sites just waiting to be explored by curious, enthusiastic visitors. Cobblestone streets lead to architectural achievements dating to the 17th and 18th centuries, structures that gave UNESCO impetus to designate San Miguel a World Heritage Site. While there, don’t miss iconic sights like La Parroquia, a neo-Gothic church that is just as interesting when seen from above (via rooftop bars or the hill above town) as at ground level. And don’t dismiss the possibility of exploring just beyond the town; El Charco del Ingenio is a nature preserve offering opportunities for immersive outdoor and cultural experiences.

Food and drink to try in San Miguel de Allende

There’s a little bit of everything when it comes to eating out in San Miguel de Allende. From modern Mexican at popular upscale restaurants like Moxi—the San Miguel eatery of star chef Enrique Olvera—to highly-ranked Japanese, Thai, Peruvian, and Argentinean restaurants, you’ll find chefs eager to share their considerable talents with you. A large variety of international sweets can be found here, especially at the bakery El Petit Four. And if you’re looking for drinks in atmospheric settings, the rooftop bars La Azotea and Luna can’t be beat—especially at sunset.

Culture in San Miguel de Allende

Important chapters in Mexican history were written in San Miguel de Allende, whose very name references one such chapter and its central protagonist: Ignacio Allende, a Spanish Army captain who ultimately embraced and advanced Mexican independence. Colonial influences are visible throughout the city, primarily in its well-preserved architecture, which was one of the justifications for UNESCO’s 2008 designation of San Miguel as a World Heritage Site. But contemporary San Miguel also reflects the influences of its large expat population. Artists and writers, most of them from the United States, have flocked here for decades, making their mark on cultural life and serving as the impetus for the city to be as bilingual and bicultural as it is.

Shopping

Arts and crafts are the thing to buy in San Miguel de Allende, and despite—or perhaps because of—its large expat population, San Miguel’s traditional and local crafts thrive, and are widely available at local markets, galleries, and workshops. Look for products made of wool, wood, and metal at the town’s artisan market. Contemporary crafts and artworks are available, too, both by expat and Mexican artists; one excellent place to find them is at Fabrica La Aurora, an art and design center located in a former textile factory. Today, it’s home to more than 40 galleries and shops, and artists host open studios in their workshops each week.

Practical Information

San Miguel de Allende, located in the state of Guanajuato, is one of the key cities in Mexico’s colonial heartland. However, it’s hardly the most accessible by air; the closest airports are Querétaro (QRO) and León (BJX), approximately 45 and 70 miles away, respectively. Renting a car at the airport is recommended, but be aware that parking in San Miguel is limited. Temperatures average between 74 and 81 degrees year-round, making the city an excellent four-season destination. Bring layers, though; mountainous environs make for quick temperature changes. The official language is Spanish and the currency is the Mexican peso. Tipping is appreciated in restaurants and for hotel and taxi services. Voltage is the same as in the United States.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
Discover the cobblestone streets of Mexico’s colorful San Miguel de Allende for a tour of Gothic architecture and curated tequila tastings.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Shakespeare said it best: “If music be the food of love, play on.” He’d be impressed by the dining options in San Miguel that foster romance through live music. Mama Mía hosts music on several stages in its sprawling complex. For great jazz served with a Caesar salad prepared tableside, diners pop into Tío Lucas. Ask owner Max for a prime spot. The place may be jammed primarily with Canadians and Americans, but its lineup still elevates San Miguel to one of Mexico’s best jazz towns.
San Miguel’s iconic landmark, the Parroquia (officially the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel), is now world-famous. Look for its eclectic, neo-Gothic spires, crowning the city skyline, to locate the downtown area called the Centro. In 1880, self-taught mestizo architect and stone quarry master Zeferino Gutiérrez is said to have designed the church’s facade based on postcards of European cathedrals. He mapped out each day’s scope of work in the sand with a stick, since blueprints would have required reading and writing, two skills his craftsmen didn’t possess. You need not listen closely to hear La Luz, the largest of eight bells, tolling the hours clearly.
As befits a town with 475 years of history, San Miguel supports a number of city tour guides. One of the most popular is the Patronato Pro Niños Historic Walking Tour—a fund-raiser for children’s health care—which leaves from the city center, the Jardín, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 10 a.m., for a two-hour stroll through history. You’ll surely stop at the Chorro (a public patio lined by old, open-air laundry sinks), a popular photo spot. And for real down-to-earth insight (plus a couple of laughs) about San Miguel people, culture, and rituals, book a tour with local storyteller Joseph Toone.
Those who love a terrace view—and honestly, who doesn’t?—will have plenty to drink in on San Miguel rooftops. The most dramatic view is that of El Palomar Hotel, perched at the Centro’s eastern edge, high above it all. The Rosewood boasts Luna Bar, ground zero for popping the question. Hotel Nena offers an intimate rooftop spa along with liquid refreshments, while newcomers like 1810 Hotel Boutique and Casa No Name—no name doesn’t apply to the aptly dubbed Sky Bar—share breathtaking vistas for the price of a drink.
The classic, late-morning Mexican breakfast (quite good for hangovers) is typically spicy, abundant, and sophisticated in ways quite distinct from the brunches that have become synonymous with the urban weekend—think solid, cold beer instead of innovative mimosa iterations. But for one of the town’s signature Mexican breakfasts, in one of its lushest courtyard gardens, try the Yucatecan fare at La Casa del Diezmo. And if you just can’t shake where you came from, the eggs Benedict at Lavanda prove to be artistic creations indeed, akin to lotus-flower sculptures.
Thermal springs dot the countryside just north of San Miguel, some as close as a five-minute taxi ride away. Newest—and closest among them—is the Spa at Los Senderos (pictured above), with an adjacent sandy lakeshore for a day-at-the-beach facsimile. In fact, this is a wider residential and ecological project that includes vineyards and organic orchards. Older spas like La Gruta, Escondido Place, and Taboada merit daylong excursions, with lunch being served while you recline in your chaises longues. And the Mayan Baths, with an underground rock-walled grotto complete with candles and piped-in music, can make for a romantic evening, even including a buffet dinner. (That said, double-check the somewhat irregular schedule.)
Mexico’s first female distiller calls the colonial city her spiritual home—and she’s not the only one.
Wandering Chef: Pati Jinich in Mexico