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This is where the cool kids (Uma Thurman, Led Zeppelin, Anthony Bourdain) lay their heads when they stop over in the Big Easy. The look is modern but not excessively so, location-appropriate, but not in an overly Fleur-de-Lys kind of way. Think: creamy hues, contemporary furnishings, and lofty ceilings paired with intricate woodwork, ornate chandeliers, and black-and-white photos of jazz greats. The former bank is also well positioned for late-night revelry, while still being far enough away from the French Quarter action—so you can get a good night’s sleep in one of the just-renovated king-size Apple rooms.

Ralph Brennan’s Red Fish Grill pairs eclectic, of-the-sea décor with some of the best seafood in town. Don’t miss the BBQ oysters with Crystal Hot Sauce and blue cheese dressing. Next door, Bourbon House is known for its towering plateaux de fruits de mer, which comes with oysters with caviar, boiled Gulf shrimp, mussels, crab fingers, and seafood salad, and its impressive bourbon selection. Donald Link’s latest endeavor, Peche, is to seafood what Cochon is to pork. On Magazine Street, Casamento’s is an institution for its oyster loaf and fried seafood platters, plus it’s fun to watch the hulking shuckers tackle piles of just-off-the-boat bivalves.

This Frenchmen Street landmark offers up a steady parade of remarkable local musicians from late afternoon until early morning, with an emphasis on foot-tapping traditional and swing jazz. Musicians play on a low stage against the front window; the curious wanderers outside press their noses up against the glass, providing yet another level of entertainment. Nobody comes here for elaborate cocktails—it’s more or less a beer-and-a-shot joint—but people do come here for music, and they come in droves. Plan to arrive early enough to nab a seat at the bar or along the wall, and you’ll have a good perch when things get going.

An interview with the duo behind the Charleston Academy of Domestic Pursuits.

Donald Link’s “swine shop” (part wine bar, part butcher, part sandwich spot) is a meaty addendum to the Cajun chef’s pork-centric Cochon (around the corner). You can’t go wrong with the always-on-the-menu muffaletta or the pork belly on white bread with cucumber-mint salad and chili-lime aioli, but, on my most recent visit, I opted for the Gambino. Link’s take on the classic Italian sub is a serious undertaking with three types of house-cured meats—coppa, cotta, and soppressata—plus arugula and a herby vinaigrette on perfectly crunchy ciabatta.

Tattooed, yoga mat-toting hipsters frequent this Bywater haunt for its locally roasted coffee, kale salads, and just-pressed juices. And on select weekday nights, the space plays host to a pop-up called Twilight Tacos. The succinct menu includes four different tacos (raisin thyme chicken with mole, purslane, and queso fresco, perhaps, or braised pumpkin, chard, and poblano salsa with toasted pepitas), plus rice and beans, chips and salsa. It’s BYOB, but the house lemonade and limeade are made for mixing, as are craft syrups like pineapple-jalapeno.

Named after Dot Domilise and her daughter-in-law Patti, this shack-like corner shop on Annunciation draws locals and in-the-know visitors for some of the city’s best po’ boys. You can’t really go wrong whether you opt for the hot smoked sausage with gravy or “The Peacemaker” (half shrimp, half oysters). Either way, grab a Barq’s root beer and a stool at the bar while you wait for your sandwich and a table—they’re in short supply, especially during the lunch hour rush.

Frenchmen Street is, more or less, the local-music version of Bourbon Street. It also has its share of tourists trundling about with go-cups in hand, but they’re drawn more by the music than the drink. Plan to spend an evening (things start to pick up around 8 p.m., earlier on weekends) along a three-block stretch of small, informal clubs where there’s often no cover (give generously and give often when the bucket comes around), or at most $5 or $10. Notable clubs include the Spotted Cat, the Maison, Blue Nile, D.B.A., the Apple Barrel, and Snug Harbor. Earlier in the evenings, there’s often an impromptu brass band at the corner of Chartres and Frenchmen. Between sets, take a moment to browse the night art markets, the largest of which is next to the Spotted Cat.

Every city worth its salt has at least one great pizza joint. So why go out of your way to visit this one? Three reasons: (1) the pizza, (2) the neighborhood, and (3) the pizza. The eatery started as a delivery pop-up, with thin-crust pies made in a shared kitchen, and its hours and phone number shared among Bywater residents like state secrets. The name proved as accurate as it was uncreative; demand was vast, and the place finally landed its own spot. Pizza Delicious doesn’t attempt to be cute or overly wry with toppings, but it sets itself apart with fresh ingredients and an eye to perfection. Pro tip: Get a pie to go and head over the arching footbridge at the end of the block and enjoy dinner at Crescent Park with its waterfront view.

“Well, we’ll see about that!” loudly harrumphs an endless of stream of out-of-town customers, eager to challenge the claim that Willie Mae’s makes “the world’s best fried chicken.” They’re usually much quieter when they depart—invariably cowed into silence by the spicy, armor-plated crust surrounding strikingly moist meat. Not a chicken lover? You can also dig into pork chops, veal, or catfish at this iconic (if out-of-the-way) neighborhood institution in Treme, a five-minute taxi ride out of the French Quarter. Willie Mae herself is no longer at the helm, but her granddaughter has taken over and seems to guard its reputation as tightly as she does the family chicken recipe.

Discover what makes Zanzibar’s capital a destination worth visiting.

Anyone interested in the city’s complex and vivid past—and if you’re still breathing, that should include you—would do well to make a stop at the Historic New Orleans Collection. This is a private entity with a public purpose: It was founded to both preserve French Quarter buildings and to amass and display some of the key documents and artifacts covering the city’s three centuries of history. The collection is housed in the impressive Merieult House, which dates back to 1792 and which underwent a Greek Revival makeover in the 1830s. Self-guided tours of the Williams Gallery downstairs and the Louisiana History Galleries upstairs are free; be sure to check out their exhibits on Louisiana’s culture and legacy.

This venue has closed.

Every time I get a chance to spend some time in NOLA, you’ll find me on Frenchmen Street, Marigny, Bywater, 9th area. This art market, while not really a hidden gem, is always worth a visit. Grab a cocktail and catch some music to loosen up and chat it up with the incredible artists and business owners selling really fun swag in the heart of The Frenchmen Street party.

The very first restaurant that was recommended to me by the bellhop at my hotel was Mother’s Restaurant. Mother’s is one of the oldest and most successful restaurants in the NOLA. The line to get inside stretches down the sidewalk to the back of the building. The menu has all of the Nawlins classics like Po-Boy sandwiches and jambalaya. Breakfast is also amazing. Creations like the shrimp creole omelet with grits really popped out on the menu for me. Try it, try it all!

How to choose between sweet potato biscuits, truffle grits, and the free-range lamb meatloaf sandwich? Try them all! (Just kidding) As a solo diner, I skipped the sweet potato biscuits (sadly). The grits and sandwich looked and tasted like perfection, to the point where two passersby commented how delicious the sandwich looked and ended up eating there. Outdoor seating in a petite pedestrian mall makes for lovely ambience as well. No loud motorcycles here!