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Jutting out from the northern district of Mosman, just south of Taronga Zoo, Bradleys Head offers one of the best perspectives of the Sydney Opera House, the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Fort Denison, among other attractions. Whether you come for a picnic or New Year’s Eve, fishing or hiking—the popular Bradleys Head to Chowder Bay walk links up with the even more epic Manly to Split Bridge track—this is Sydney at its best. If the natural beauty isn’t enough, Bradleys Head is also a historic site where the mast of the HMAS Sydney, a relic from the Royal Australian Navy, is mounted proudly and an old military mess hall now serves as a cafe.

As a travel writer and a kama’aina or “child of the land” in Hawaiian, I know about Waikiki hotels. Growing up not far from the Waikiki of the late 1960’s and 1970’s, I have watched Waikiki transform from a simpler time when there were fewer hotels, showrooms had live entertainment with local celebrity singers and hula dancers performing every night, and a sprinkling of small bars were scattered like shells along the sands of Waikiki. In that long- ago time you could take an evening walk on the beach and listen to the Hawaiian music under the stars.




So much has changed since then. The Waikiki of today along bustling Kalakaua Avenue is such a compacted array of luxury brand stores, chain restaurants, and concept eateries, that some visitors may find it a bit contrary to their idea of relaxation. So they head to an outer island. But enchanting Oahu should not be overlooked because of its popularity, so I’ll tell you about an oceanfront oasis on the beach at Waikiki that you’ll love.


There are two sides to Waikiki: The Diamond Head side, and the Ewa side. The Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort is situated on the Ewa end of Waikiki on what was once referred to as the Kalia area. The famous Hawaiian water-man Duke Kahanamoku, the father of modern surfing, and an Olympic medalist, was born here in this well-populated residential area. There was also a small hotel with thatched roof cottages along the beach called Niumalu Hotel. Decades later in the 1950’s Henry J. Kaiser (and partners) bought most of the land up, negotiated leases, dredged a tidal area and created a lagoon. Then he built rooms, restaurants, and bars, and opened his Hawaiian Village Hotel in September of 1955. Soon he added an incredible marvel of an aluminum dome that was constructed in 20 hours and built as an entertainment venue. He later sold the property to Conrad Hilton.


The Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort has also made changes over the years by revamping its oceanfront 20-acre layout. Because of its size, manicured gardens, several pools, various room types, shopping, a luau venue, and multiple restaurant offerings, all along the largest expanse of Waikiki Beach, it is the only true resort in Waikiki, But I did promise you an oasis. So here is the secret: the Hilton’s Ali’i Tower.



The beachfront Ali’I Tower is a quiet “hotel within a hotel” in the large resort. Guests staying at the Ali’i Tower have their own front desk and concierge, a private pool and deck overlooking the beach, fitness room, and private bar. All of the rooms feature understated design and upscale amenities. Guests sporting their Ali’i Tower bracelet can go to the front of any line at the ever-popular Tropics Bar & Grill or Rainbow Room. Tip: Book the corner Diamond Head Oceanfront rooms on the upper floors. Your two lanais give you an expansive view from Diamond Head, across the surf spots along the reef, all the way to the Tapa Tower and Duke Kahanamoku Lagoon, the marina, and across the ocean to Ewa Beach. Don’t miss the Friday Night Fireworks from your balcony. The Hilton Hawaiian Village has been continuing this beloved tradition since 1988. So settle in at the Ali’i Tower and relax knowing that you have found a slice of the old Waikiki that still exists.

North of Tbilisi, you’ll find some of Georgia’s most iconic attractions: Jvari Monastery and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, both UNESCO World Heritage sites, located in Mtskheta, the former religious center of Georgia. Then drive along the stunningly scenic Georgian Military Highway to Stepantsminda, commonly known as Kazbegi, where neighboring Mount Kazbegi makes for great walking or biking. Stay at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi in the 6,000-mile high Kazbegi village. This improbably stylish mirage of a mountain lodge was the brainchild of a local gambling tycoon, Timur Ugulava. A minimalist Scandinavian aesthetic (and barely any closet space) dominates inside the serene 156 guestrooms, all with breathtaking views on snow-covered slopes. The public spaces are decorated with fascinating Georgian vintage film posters, old rugs, bookshelves, and leather couches that invite endless lingering. The restaurant does stylish takes on Georgian dishes; don’t miss the khachapuri (cheese pies). There’s also a cozy bar with its own fireplace and cigar menu, a sweeping sun deck, an almost Olympic-size indoor swimming pool, and mountain bikes for the guests. The building is fashioned from metal, glass, and local wood reclaimed from old buildings.

Walking up to the hotel, past the vodou sculptures in the garden, I remembered another visit, another lifetime, decades ago. Wandering around the hotel, I couldn’t for the life of me figure out what, if anything, had changed since then. Time comes to a standstill at the iconic Oloffson. Graham Greene wrote ‘The Comedians’ here in the sixties, immortalizing the hotel under the fictional name ‘The Trianon’. Jacqueline Kennedy Onasis and Mike Jagger were regular guests in the seventies and early eighties. The 19th century Gothic gingerbread mansion has stood strong through Haiti’s turbulent history, housing travelers, artists, writers, diplomats, UN representatives and many others. The old lady is beginning to show her age, and although she only ‘danced’ in the massive earthquake that shook Haiti to the core in 2010, she’s in desperate need of restoration. The Hotel Oloffson, not far from the Hotel Marriott Port-au-Prince, is a must visit for anyone who wants to get close to Haiti. A rum sour on the terrace provides the perfect reprieve from Port-au-Prince, and most Thursday nights, there’s the hotel manager’s kick-ass band RAM playing totally infectuous ‘vodou rock’, an evening not to be missed! ___________________ A big thank you to JetBlue (http://www.jetblue.com) for flights to and from Haiti, and of course the Marriott Port-au-Prince (http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/papmc-marriott-port-au-prince-hotel/) for accommodations.

Welcome to Middle Earth in the South Pacific, and an ideal stop for traveling fans of the author J.R.R. Tolkien and the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit movie trilogies. Near the rural town of Matamata—itself a destination for its LOTR-inspired visitor center and a selfie-ready statue of Gollum along the main street—the re-created sets of Hobbiton offer a detailed and fascinating glimpse of the hobbit holes, meadows, and gardens of Bilbo and Frodo. An essential conclusion to the tour is quaffing an only-available-in-Hobbiton Oatbarton Ale at the leafy lakeside Green Dragon Inn.

Mexico City’s mammoth cathedral was built across three centuries (1573–1813)—starting soon after Cortés and his allies vanquished the Aztec Empire—using stones taken from a destroyed indigenous temple. Today’s sanctuary serves up contrasts between unadorned neoclassical walls alongside exuberant gilt chapels and altarpieces as well as a massive pipe organ, with some baroque elements, that’s still dusted off and played from time to time. Be sure not to miss the high altar, and consider shelling out for a visit to the sacristy, with its glistening dome, grand canvases, and massive cabinets, fit to hold an archbishop’s entire stock of holy utensils. And for a queasy view of how much the ground beneath the city is sinking, note how chandeliers appear to list in comparison to the chapel’s vertical lines.

With the Spanish conquest of the Aztec empire, Iberian overlords set about imposing their customs on the subdued populace, eliminating traces of pre-Hispanic religions they deemed heretical by demolishing major temples and building churches and other structures atop their ruins. Centuries later, in 1978, workers laying electrical lines happened upon the remains of the Templo Mayor, the Aztecs’ most important ceremonial center (and, yes, the location of their notorious human sacrifices). Subsequent excavations have revealed superimposed pyramid foundations and priceless artworks, many now displayed at the on-site museum. Thrillingly, treasures keep turning up—including the spring 2017 discovery of a stone box containing some of the finest Aztec gold ever found, just off the Templo Mayor’s steps.

Elevate the normally mundane experience of shopping for medicine-cabinet basics like soap and toothpaste with a visit to one of the oldest pharmacies in the world. In this 13th-century chapel with early Renaissance frescoes, Gothic carved wooden cabinets, and crystal chandeliers, most items are still crafted according to formulas originally created by Dominican monks. A small museum displays equipment once used to make Santa Maria Novella products, as well as a collection of beautifully painted ceramic jars that held the herbs and powders. Linger a little longer in this fragrant world by ordering a pot of herbal tea or a small glass of one of the historic liqueurs in the tearoom.

There are no guarantees the Northern Lights will start dancing on the night you look skyward, but it’s so worth taking the chance. One of the great rewards for hanging out in Alaska once the dark and cold settle over the state, the Northern Lights (or if you want to be scientific about it, aurora borealis) serve up a light show that is equal parts science, magic, and art. Your best bet for catching the light show is to head away from city lights. That’s one of many reasons it’s worth making the trip to Denali National Park, open year-round. When the park’s summer crowds disappear, visitors feel as though the massive national park is an intimate personal space.

The most iconic views of Quito feature the snow-covered peak of Cotopaxi in the background. Though a hike to its crater is on many visitors’ wish list, its recent spurt of activity may deem it too unsafe for the next few months. But there’s no need to panic. To glimpse the tallest active volcano in the world, head to El Panecillo. Located on its own volcanic terrain, this 656-foot hill towers above the old town and offers the perfect view of Cotopaxi. El Panecillo is also home to the city’s winged virgin. El Virgen de Quito (Quito’s Madonna) stands on a globe, which is covered by a snake with what looks like a crocodile’s face. This multi-piece aluminium structure was erected in 1976 and is one of the city’s most popular tourist spots. It’s advisable to take a taxi to El Panecillo at sunrise or sunset for the best shot. Nowadays, police presence is all day, but locals strongly warn against walking to the hill.

The system of canals and chinampas (cultivated artificial islands fashioned from the area’s swampy soils) that has survived in the far-south neighborhood known as Xochilmilco once stretched all the way to the Centro. To this day, the community is known for its plant nurseries and vegetable gardens. These ancient landscapes now contribute to what has become one of the most singular pleasure gardens in the world, where visitors hire “gondoliers” to propel boats known as trajineras as they sail these channels in the company of floating mariachis and food vendors, partying teens, and extended families out for a picnic lunch. Since a tour is usually a four-hour-plus investment (it flies by), ask your oarsman to take you to Xochimilco’s more-rural precincts, where you’ll enjoy marvelous quiet, far from the madding crowd, in the company of cranes, curs, and picturesque cornfields.

Cirque du Soleil’s only resident troupe outside of Las Vegas and Orlando opened in 2014, kicking off yet another stellar attraction for visitors to Cancun and the Riviera Maya. The colorful 70-minute performance - which has been dubbed JOYÀ - offers an immersive theatrical and culinary experience for the whole family. The name JOYÀ, rooted in the Spanish “joya” meaning jewel or pearl, alludes to a person or event of great value. Through this mesmerizing performance, an alchemist’s granddaughter discovers joy and wisdom by sharing an extraordinary experience in an unlikely place.

My first visit to The Lazy Fish was for a wedding and I simply wish I could have stayed longer. This is not your usual guesthouse; for a start you can only access it by boat and at the end of the private jetty where you disembark is an old style telephone box - that actually works! The Lazy Fish is secluded in the Marlborough Sounds at the top of the South Island. Perfect for a real ‘getaway’ the serenity is amplified by the native birdlife and the gentle washing of water on the pebbled shore. There is a beautiful native garden you can walk through, complete with large palms, and on those rare occasions where the weather isn’t the best you can simply pick up a book and relax inside on one of the most comfortable chairs in the world!

Before there were art galleries in Santa Fe, there was La Posada. Built as a private home in the 1880s by wealthy local merchant Abraham Staab for his beloved wife, Julia, the elegant pueblo-meets-Spanish-style complex expanded in the 1930s, when new owners added adobe casitas to the six acres of lush, high-desert gardens—and then invited artists such as Georgia O’Keeffe and Will Shuster to stay and work. When La Posada became a hotel shortly thereafter, the walls were already lined with works by the many artists who continued to pass through. Even now, the lively lounge—a see-and-be-seen spot for artists of all kinds—and the high-ceilinged rooms—with their kiva fireplaces and traditional viga ceilings—are adorned with works by some of the foremost contemporary American artists. All works are available to buy, too, for guests who want to take home a piece of their trip. Or, you can make like most guests, and just keep returning to this refined retreat that has offered respite from the world for more than a century.

This week on Travel Tales by Afar, Tom Turcich shares the benefits of walking— whether you’re traversing the world or setting off on a smaller trail.