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Stockholm’s NK department store is worth visiting just to wander around its great, imposing atrium. In the middle of the city, it boasts over a hundred separate departments, with everything from restaurants, bars, and cafes to florists, sports goods, and top luxury brands. You can shop tax-free here—they even have personal shoppers—as well as exchange currencies, and everyone speaks English (of course!).

For moderately priced rarities that won’t destroy your wallet, check out Wigerdals Värld, which carries a selection of glass and ceramics as well as furniture like antique sofas, easy lounging chairs, and coffee tables.

A brief description of Skansen—a 75-acre open-air museum with historic buildings and a zoo—doesn’t convey just how much fun it is. You can easily spend a happy half-day here, looking at wolves, reindeer, moose, seals, and other Nordic creatures, then popping into old buildings that have been brought here from all over Scandinavia and reassembled. In some you can talk to people in costume who are playing the roles of the original inhabitants. Elsewhere you can watch glassblowers at work and visit old-fashioned stores. Open since 1891, it remains one of Sweden’s top tourist draws.

Minimalist and simple yet functional and attractive, Swedish design is often heralded worldwide as always trendy under the “less is more” mantra. Established in 2007, HAPPYsthlm (sthlm = Stockholm) located in Gamla stan is a Swedish design company founded by designers Katarina Andersson, Kajsa Aronsson and Caroline Lindholm, and the store sells handmade fabrics, textiles, ceramics, and jewelry.

Once a nondescript part of Stockholm’s center, Brunkebergstorg has been revitalized by the addition of two excellent new hotels (At Six and Hobo) and Tak, a rooftop bar with perhaps the best views you can see while enjoying an Aperol spritz or the house martini made with vodka, sake, and a touch of sherry. The panorama really is something special, taking in the whole of the city. One floor down is the restaurant where head chef Frida Ronge serves food that fuses Nordic ingredients and Japanese techniques, with dishes such as arctic char with daikon and grilled Swedish beef with yuzu kosho vinaigrette.

Thelins is an iconic Stockholm bakery that has been around since the early 1900s. Its first store opened on St. Eriksgatan in Stockholm’s Kungsholmen district, and today Thelins has six storefronts and a bakery where all its cakes are baked from scratch. At any Thelins, you’ll find an array of classic Swedish cakes—from Prinsesstårta (princess cake) with green marzipan coating and sponge cake layered with jam and cream to a variety of fruit and chocolate cakes.

Stockholm’s newest upscale shopping district MOOD spans an entire city block. A two-story-tall statue of a fashion model in a contorted pose welcomes visitors into this stylish mall. Definitely keep an eye out for local celebrities and Stockholm’s elite as you meander through brand-name stores like Victoria Beckham, Ralph Lauren, and Club Monaco.

To while away time, you can go people-watching and vintage shopping in Stockholm’s answer to New York’s SoHo—South of Folkungagatan, called “SoFo” on Södermalm (“Söder” to locals). This busy bohemian district boasts some of the edgiest cultural experiences in town. Visit stores like Sneakersnstuff for funky limited-edition sneakers and running shoes, or wade through rows of vintage clothes at Beyond Retro, offering styles from Victorian-era attire to 1990s grunge-rock Pearl Jam–inspired clothes, with every era in between. If you’re into vintage—vinyl records, throwback clothes, paraphernalia, odd knickknacks—you won’t find them anywhere else if you don’t find them in Stockholm’s SoFo district.

While the enormous Royal Palace in Stockholm’s Old Town is the king’s official residence, the family lives outside the center at Drottningholm. And this being Sweden, everyone is allowed to stop by. You can visit the interior, excluding the royal family’s private wing, and then roam around the extensive grounds. The estate is also famed for its theater, which still uses the original stage equipment from the 18th century. UNESCO lists Drottningholm as a World Heritage Site: “With its palace, perfectly preserved theatre (built in 1766), Chinese pavilion and gardens, it is the finest example of an 18th-century northern European royal residence inspired by the Palace of Versailles.”

If you’re a fan of late Swedish author Stieg Larsson’s award-winning Millennium trilogy, or have read his book selections on long-haul flights, you might be interested in exploring the backdrops and settings of this suspenseful crime drama series. Take a guided tour (group or individual) that walks you through Stockholm’s edgier bohemian neighborhood of Södermalm, and visit spots like Mellqvists Kaffebar (which both fictional journalist Mikael Blomkvist and real-life author Stieg Larsson frequented) and Fiskargatan 9—an expensive address with stunning views over Djurgården and Gamla stan (Old Town) where protagonist Lisbeth Salander buys her 21-room apartment.

Eating out in Stockholm can be downright expensive, and it’s not uncommon to spend upwards of $15 just for a sandwich. A local insider tip is to keep an eye out for signs that say “Dagens rätt” or “Dagens lunch,” placed outside restaurants and windows especially around lunchtime. This means “dish of the day,” usually served at an affordable price. In most places, the total price will include a salad buffet, bread and butter, and water as well as coffee.

When in Stockholm, try this budget attraction—the subway! This really is art underground, literally. It is called the longest art museum in the world. Over 90 of the 100 stations in Stockholm have been decorated with sculptures, mosaics, paintings, installations, engravings, and reliefs, by more than 150 artists. I spent over three hours here, getting off at each stop to take photos. My favorite line was the blue line, built in the 1970s and left more “natural.” All the blastings that take place to build an underground subway are typically covered up with tiles and walls. But the blue line left the rock exposed, which gives you the feeling of a cave as opposed to a subway. The best part is, this museum costs only the price of a subway ticket! To learn more, visit http://sl.se/Global/Konst/Engelska%20broshyrer/Art-MetroENG_webb.pdf

Centrally located in Stockholm, the King’s Garden is a lively urban garden/park/plaza that connects the harbor with one of Stockholm’s main shopping districts. It contains a series of “outdoor rooms” including a formal entrance, fountain with planting parterres, stage for performances, a lawn area (was that artificial turf?) and a plaza with a sunken pool surrounded by steps ideal for people watching, oddly focused on a TGI Friday’s Restaurant as a focal point. There is lots to do here and this popular space is bordered by restaurants, galleries, cafes and night clubs. The King’s Garden has been dubbed “Stockholm’s outdoor living room” and there is a full schedule of concerts and performances throughout the summer (when I visited) as well as an ice skating rink in the winter.

From hipsters, fashionistas, and bohemian chic youngsters to executives in business suits, dads pushing strollers, foreigners in ethnic garb, and guidebook-wielding tourists, a true cross section of Stockholm’s diverse residents populates Medborgarplatsen (“Citizen Square”), a central and iconic plaza that is prime for people watching on the island of Södermalm. Once night falls, it becomes one of the active nightlife spots in town—with lounges, clubs, and live music in nearby Debaser.

Let’s face it, Stockholm is three things for travelers: It’s cold. It’s expensive. And it’s home to some of the most gorgeous human specimens on this dear planet of ours. I may have found the perfect place to remedy these issues, should they be considered as such—Gilda’s Café. Set in the heart of the boho district of Södermalm in south Stockholm, Gilda’s is the perfect place to shelter from the cold with a warm cup of coffee in hand, inexpensive pastries (fika, anyone?), and some good old people watching. Trust me when I say that people watching does not get any better than in Stockholm. Locals are very fond of hipster ways. They are relaxed, friendly, and could all be on the front cover of a fashion magazine. Beautiful people aside, Gilda’s is a little slice of heaven on its own. Think unmatched tableware, indie music, eclectic furniture, and delicious homemade dishes. Worlds away from the compartmentalism and practicality of Ikea. The change of scenery is most welcome and enjoyable. Save your precious kronors, daydream about a handsome Swedish Viking while sipping a comforting latte, and go to Gilda’s. It’s the ultimate south Stockholm thing to do, and you won’t regret it.