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The castles, bridges and palaces overlooking the Bosporus may be impressive, but it’s the smaller yalılar (waterfront mansions) that whip many people into a photo frenzy on a Bosporus cruise. These ornate multimillion-dollar Ottoman mansions are hot properties, with prices for prime estates starting at $20 million. Buying one is no easy feat. Sales are conducted in the utmost secrecy as many high-profile owners seek to avoid gossip and prefer anonymity.

When the crush of 14 million people (and what seems like an infinite number of rude taxi drivers) gets to you, Istanbul has a cure for what ails you: a peaceful ferry ride across the Bosphorus and a seat in the leafy garden at Viktor Levi wine house. The son of a fisherman, Viktor Levi started bringing back his favorite wines from the Aegean Islands more than a century ago, and his namesake restaurant, tucked into a side street in Moda in Kadiköy, now has more than a dozen house varietals, most under 100 lira. A meal by the fountain or inside the restored town house might inspire your own trip to Bozcaada, or just a return trip on the ferry.

From the fertile lands of Anatolia to gourmet kitchens around the world, Nar Lokanta is a restaurant with a gourmet shop that offers a range of natural products grown, produced and packaged to the highest international standards in Turkey. The olive, hazelnut and pistachio oils as well as nuts, dried fruits, preserves and Turkish delight make ideal gifts for your friends back home—or for yourself.

Nişantaşı is the posh “Upper East Side” of Istanbul, home to the priciest designer boutiques and old-fashioned couturiers, especially along Teşvikiye and Abdi İpekçi streets. Beymen department store was Turkey’s first luxury retailer and remains a one-stop shopping destination for international and Turkish designers; take a seat outside its sidewalk café to see the fashionable set preen. For a peek at the old-money Istanbul chronicled in Orhan Pamuk’s book The Museum of Innocence, find Hak Pasajı, a shopping arcade just a few steps from the City’s Nişantaşı shopping center. Along with jewelry stores, stationers, and shoemakers, you’ll find Orlando Carlo Calumeno’s shop, a veritable treasure trove of authentic Constantinople relics ranging from French postcards of the old Pera district to museum-quality Ottoman army items.

The Grand Hotel de Londres (also known as Buyuk Londra) has been open for more than 100 years, and while its interior is immaculately kept, there’s something about it that is charmingly stuck in the past. You can imagine Ernest Hemingway at the bar in 1922, reviewing notes for his story in the Toronto Daily Star. Wander through the lobby with its antique furniture, past the requisite portrait of Atatürk, to the tiny elevator that will take you up to the rooftop. The bar there is scenic without being a scene: no seasonal cocktails or artisanal ice cubes here, just a simple but serviceable menu and gorgeous views of the Golden Horn and the Old City. If you can, try to arrive before sunset to hear the call to prayer echo throughout the streets, then descend the grand staircase back into the noisy nightlife of Pera.

One of the most popular souvenirs from Turkey, and one which will last a lifetime and beyond if you buy a high-quality one, is a hand-woven kilim or carpet. While you may find a wider selection of carpets in Istanbul, Black Sheep Carpets in Selçuk has a reputation for selling excellent carpets at fair and honest prices, without any high-pressure sales tactics. A visit here is not only a shopping opportunity, but also a chance to learn about Turkish culture and crafts from the store’s knowledgeable owner and staff.

The Kuşadası Bazaar actually consists of two bazaars. The Grand Bazaar is a vast collection of small stores and is the second-largest bazaar in the country, after Istanbul’s. The Orient Bazaar is an open-air alternative. Savvy shoppers will be able to find bargains on everything from Turkish towels to designer knock-offs, but be prepared and know that haggling is expected and the pressure to buy can be intense.

The master jeweler at Grand Bazaar Jewelers is a fourth-generation Turkish citizen of Armenian descent who designs and hand-crafts necklaces, pendants, rings, bracelets and more using gold, silver and precious gemstones, preserving the traditional Armenian art form of jewelry making. Custom orders and international shipping are available.

Coffee shop by day, cocktail bar by night, this cozy venue is fast becoming the hipsters’ haunt in urban-chic Cihangir. Serkan İpekli, a Turkish barista champion, and Yağmur Engin teamed up to brew, mix, and shake classic and innovative beverages all day with a vibe that’s laid-back, yet irresistible.

Pick up any glass in Turkey and chances are there’s a letter P on the bottom of it, standing for Paşabahçe, Turkey’s top manufacturer of glassware and housewares. Blue-glass eye amulets (nazar in Turkish) that ward off the evil eye are sold everywhere in Turkey, but the items here are actually locally made. They range from simple, silver-dollar-size keychains to hefty, gilded wall hangings. Other souvenirs include the tulip-shaped glasses seen in every teahouse in town and ornate Ottoman-inspired vases that look like they could have been lifted from Topkapı Palace. Another contender for your collection: a piece of twisted blue-striped çeşm-i bülbül (nightingale’s eye) glass, a Venetian glassblowing technique made distinctively Turkish.

Turkey has a strong textile tradition: carpets, of course, but also tapestries, pillows, and clothing. Cocoon boutique has a beautiful collection of these goods, along with embroidered suzani fabrics from Uzbekistan and Central Asia, felted wool and silk hats, and colorful travertine tiles. Also look for oya, intricate flowers made with an ancient needle-lace technique. Some pieces are vintage and others are made new for the shop, but all are fit to be heirlooms. Their showroom near the Arasta Bazaar in Sultanahmet is also a good source for olive oil soaps and cotton peştamal (towels).

A mostly local crowd spills out onto the sidewalk from this hole-in-the-wall hangout in Nisantasi. They’re here for the effortlessly cool and collegial vibe; the funk and soul tunes; and signature cocktails like Serendipity (chili, passion fruit, lime juice, tequila) and Keep the Spice (Johnny Walker Black, orange bitters, honey, a rosemary-thyme infusion, lime juice).

Most travelers to Istanbul will make a bee line to photograph the blue hues of the hand-painted tiles that give the Blue Mosque its name. Though, for many locals one of the more intriguing mosques to visit is Fatih Mosque, located atop the highest hill of the city. Fatih Mosque is worth a visit for many reasons. Christendom’s Church of the Holy Apostles once stood here for 11 centuries during the reign of the Byzantines. Commissioned in the fourth century by Constantine the Great and reconstructed by Emperor Justinian 200 years later, the revered basilica housed the sarcophagi of the emperors and their consorts, alongside the relics of saints Andrew, Luke, Timothy, John Chrysostom and Gregory the Theologian. The Church of the Holy Apostles was second only in size and importance to Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya). Whilst the latter is now the top tourist attraction in the city, the Church of the Holy Apostles succumbed to invasions by the Crusaders and Ottomans. When Fatih Sultan Mehmet II (otherwise known as, Fatih the Conqueror) successfully invaded Constantinople in 1453 he ordered the demolition of the dilapidated church to make way for the first Imperial mosque to be built under Ottoman rule. The first Fatih Mosque was completed in 1463, however, an earthquake in 1766 saw the mosque virtually destroyed. For this reason today’s structure dates back to 1771 and features elements of the legendary Imperial Ottoman architectural style fused with elegant Baroque designs of the 18th century. One of the finest examples of the latter can be seen in Fatih the Conqueror’s türbe (tomb), located in the grounds of the mosque. Visits to the mosque are best combined with the neighborhood’s weekly Wednesday street market.

A cosmopolitan gem nestled at the crossroads of civilizations, İstanbul invites curious travelers to unravel its secrets, from the grandeur of Topkapı Palace to the bohemian streets of Balat.

This week on Travel Tales by AFAR, a plan-loving traveler discovers what happens when you throw out the to-do list.