Search results for

This large, modern hotel on the Lapad peninsula—about a 15-minute bus ride from the Old Town—overlooks the green hills above Lapad Bay, the Adriatic, and the beachfront. Completely refurbished in 2015, its lobby and lounge feature floor-to-ceiling windows, low furniture, and white decor, so nothing distracts from the views of the sparkling sea and sky. For even more gorgeous vistas, guests can go just below the hotel to the long pedestrian boulevard, which is filled with cafés and restaurants with plenty of outdoor seating. Guest rooms here are done up in restful tones of sisal and cream, with oversize charcoal sketches by a Croatian artist hung on wall panels behind the beds. The full-service spa has an indoor pool, Finnish sauna, and steam room, while a large deck features a bar and outdoor pool. Also on site is a restaurant with a wide terrace, and the top-floor Zenith Bar, which is best for sunset views.

A visit to the picturesque town of Cavtat, south of Dubrovnik, must include a visit to the imposing mausoleum of the Račić family. The tomb, on a hill overlooking the town’s waterfront, is worth the shady climb. Built of bronze and white stone, the mausoleum, designed by Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović, is quite moving—especially the carved angel faces floating in the dome, waiting to guide the departed to heaven.

This extraordinary restaurant holds a prime position in Dubrovnik: It’s located on the city walls with wide-open views of the old town harbor. The expert staff puts a unique spin on Mediterranean cuisine and presents it in an almost artistic manner. Enjoy the kitchen’s take on a regional favorite like sea bass roasted in cabbage leaf and drizzled with dill-and-mint-infused oil, or an elaborate specialty like the slow-cooked veal cheeks with morel mushrooms and parsnip cream. With its extensive wine and liquor cellar, Restaurant 360° is the place for memorable special occasions. (Open for dinner only.)

Ivan Meštrović was undoubtedly Croatia’s greatest sculptor. In 1952, he donated his magnificent summer residence located in the foothills of Marjan Forest Park to the state, along with many of his works. Located a mere 20-minute walk from Riva, the collection includes some 190 sculptures, along with 900 drawings, paintings and architectural plans.

Zadar’s antiques market is located in the old town, on Jurja Barakovića Street, and open daily from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and then again from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. Military memorabilia from the days of Yugoslavia and earlier is popular, but that’s just a small part of the selection you’ll find for sale here. There are also many lovely glass pieces—goblets, beads and objets d’art.

Water views and lobsters that you choose yourself from large aquariums are the lure at this seafood restaurant. This Zadar hotel and its restaurant have been in business since the 1960s (and yes, all that gilt looks a little dated). It gets high marks for fish straight from the sea and those Adriatic vistas, though the menu is on the pricey side. Gluten-free requests can be accommodated.

Set in the picturesque village of Komaji on the southern side of the Konavle valley, the winery overlooks vineyards, cypress groves and green fields. For four generations they’ve produced Plavac Mali (red) and Malvasija (white), and their latest efforts with merlot and cabernet sauvignon led to a collection of award-winning wines, including Pomet (wonderful with red meat), Tezoro (pair with Ston oysters) and Vilin Ples (the smoothest of cuvées).

On Karlin’s impossible to pronounce Krizikova street (where the neighborhood’s foodie scene is most visible), this inviting wine bar was among the venues to solidify the foodie scene here. Led by oenophile and poet Bogdan Trojak, Veltlin offers natural wines (what they prefer to call authentic wines) from the former Austro-Hungarian empire with a diversity of blends from the Czech Republic’s Moravian and Bohemian regions to Croatia and Austria. You can check the menu online to see the day’s open bottles on offer. A local illustrator is behind the whimsical map of the former empire adorning one wall.

You could expect no less than to find a bustling fish market in a seaside town. Explore the isles of this market that houses fishermen and farmers alike and watch the morning’s catch being descaled right in front of you.

In the old town, near the waterfront, you’ll find Zadar’s green, meat and fish markets. They face each other and are open in the mornings from 6 a.m. to 1 p.m. Fishermen supply fresh catches every day, and you’ll also find herbs, fruits, olive oil and cheese in the outdoor stalls, not to mention an indoor meat market and, off to one side, a spot to buy clothes, flip-flops and other cheap items. The markets settled in this large open space after buildings in the area were destroyed in World War II; today, the only fighting going on is among the bargain hunters.

Avoid the many touristy Dalmatian konobas (taverns) and head instead to Konoba Matejuška, tucked into a tight alley in the quaint Varoš neighborhood just off Riva. This rustic family-run tavern offers seafood-focused fare, including a daily catch cooked on the grill and delicious black cuttlefish risotto.

Just east of the palace is the city’s vibrant fruit and vegetable market where farmers from the hinterland come to sell fresh produce every day from sunrise to lunchtime. This is where locals stock up on supplies for the family table, ranging from seasonal fruits and vegetables to local prosciutto, nuts and jams. Encircling the market are souvenir and clothing stalls.

A local’s suggestion landed me on Maazgoon’s terrace, a vibrant spot right next door to the Diocletian Palace in Split.

The crew at the restaurant is passionate about modern takes on Mediterranean dishes; food that is all about the best ingredients and, important in my book, food that hasn’t been overworked, or ‘touched too much’.

Go there hungry. I had some whicked tuna sashimi there, and a traditionally prepared octopus in a skillet. They paired a crisp local white with it...and off to heaven I went. My mouth is watering, just writing about it.

They have a saying at Maazgoon: ‘We believe that the whole universe can fit on a plate’. Well, they sure fit a perfect week in Croatia on mine. And that’s a wrap.

>>>Warm thanks to Alan Mandić from Secret Dalmatia, for organizing a truly memorable, and off the beaten path trip for our curious and insatiable group of travelers, and to the Hotel Cornaro for accommodations in Split.

At the heart of Diocletian’s Palace, this colorful bar—a recent addition to Split’s dining scene—is already a favorite for its globally flavored tapas-style dishes. The menu is small but far-flung, featuring everything from burgers to a number of plates with an Asian twist. The Japanese steamed pork buns are particularly delicious; other bites include pickled oysters, barbecue ribs, shellfish custard, and cheese and charcuterie platters. Guinness is on tap and the cocktails are great. Torito serves breakfast, too, as well as freshly squeezed juices and smoothies all day.

Its name honors an avant-garde woman poet from Dubrovnik’s golden age, Cvijeta Zuzorić. Its menu, by star chef Jeffery Vella, honors one of the Cvijeta’s tenets: No compromising on the things you believe in. And what the staff believes in here is that the dishes must be creative, the ingredients fresh, and the wine list enticing. Start with the octopus mini burgers on olive focaccia, then enjoy a gilthead bream fillet cooked in parchment, and end your meal with peach and mascarpone crumble. Dine on some of Dubrovnik’s tastiest treasures from your seat in a charming stone alleyway, watching the passersby.