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In a city where gold-spired temples are much more ubiquitous than green space, Lumphini Park is a veritable oasis in the heart of Bangkok. Established by King Rama VI in the 1920s and completed after his death, the 142-acre chunk of tropical greenery is a treasured spot. One of the few parks of any size in central Bangkok, Lumphini is well used: In the morning, tai chi practicers arrive, while in the early evening, joggers monopolize the main path that runs around its perimeter. Even so, there’s ample room to get away from the crowds here. More than 30 species of birds flit among the park’s giant trees, and monitor lizards and turtles inhabit its waterways. Other attractions within the park include a public library, a youth sports center, and swan paddleboats in the man-made lake.

Krua Apsorn is an award-winning, royally patronized everyday Thai food restaurant. Expect a clientele made up of fussy families and big-haired, middle-aged ladies, and a cuisine revolving around full-flavoured, largely seafood-and vegetable-heavy central Thai dishes. This is one of the most famous restaurants in Thailand and is a must for every visitor to The Siam. At a minimum you must order: Green Curry With Fish Balls, Stir fried Crab Meat with Yellow Chili and String beans, Crabmeat omelet, fried giant river prawns, mushroom larb. I recommend taking the Siam boat (5 minutes) to the Wat Rachathiwat Pier and making the short walk through the beautiful old Bangkok neighborhood. After lunch head back down to the river and walk back to The Siam stopping at the 199 year old Chinese temple just before you walk under the bridge.

American entrepreneur Jim Thompson, who began his Thai silk business here in the 1940s, built himself a residence in 1959 by assembling six traditional teak houses brought from other parts of Thailand. Today, Thompson’s former abode is a museum that displays his extensive collection of rare Asian art and antiques. The gift shop sells high-end silk clothing (including darling children’s wear) as well as bags, scarves and home goods such as cushion covers, plus postcards and books.

Two of the cooks who worked with me at Nahm in London opened a dinner-only spot named Bo.lan. Bo and Dylan prepare traditional but often hard-to-find dishes, such as stir-fried chicken thighs with bamboo shoots, and red curry of pork hock. —David Thompson

The mother of unique Bangkok retail experiences is undoubtedly Chatuchak Weekend Market, Thailand’s largest outdoor bazaar. Known as Jatujak or simply JJ, it has 15,000 stalls spread over 35 acres and sells almost everything under the sun. This is the place to buy a Beatles cushion or shop for a new pet cobra or a hand-carved Buddha icon. With 200,000 people descending on the market every weekend, it’s best to come early, and perseverance can uncover a veritable treasure trove of collectibles ranging from beautiful ceramics and handicrafts to exquisite jewelry.

If you only see one temple in Bangkok, make it Wat Pho: home of the largest reclining Buddha in Thailand. The 141-foot-long statue is an artistic masterpiece plated in gold leaf and inlaid with mother of pearl. You could easily spend all day wandering the grounds, looking at reliquaries, visiting the massage school, and admiring the 400 statues of Buddha in the outer cloister—each posed and sculpted slightly differently. Before you leave, drop some money in one of the 108 begging bowls (one bowl for each of the characters of Buddha). The money goes to maintaining the Wat and the gift will bring you good luck. That seems like a fair trade.

Orlando is known for great Asian eats, and this sweet little Thai spot in Winter Park stands apart for its stylish vibe and rainbow range of iced and hot teas and desserts. KrungThep is the Thai name for Bangkok, but much of the menu skews fusion-style, with items like pesto chicken sandwiches and satay sandwiches and toast-style desserts topped with everything from condensed milk and homemade coconut ice cream to Nutella, matcha, and organic honey. Tea-lovers are in heaven here, with herbal, black, and white loose leaf varieties galore. The black and white decor scheme is both blatantly Instagram-able and cozy and inviting. For a quiet chat with a friend or a self-care moment alone, you can’t go wrong while taking a break to recharge here.

Six Senses is known for top-tier, sustainability-focused resorts in far-flung locales like the Maldives but, in 2015, the Bangkok-based hospitality brand opened its first European resort in Portugal’s wine-producing Douro Valley. Housed in a 19th-century manor house with a terracotta-tiled roof, the property features a contemporary interior, outfitted in shades of muted gold, gray, and white. Set high on a hill, the 57 rooms, suites, and villas offer stunning views of rolling vineyards, lush forests, or the property’s courtyard.

For what are undoubtedly the best vistas, choose one of the fifth-floor Quinta Panorama Suites, each with floor-to-ceiling windows that look straight onto the meandering Douro River. A wine cellar and library showcase the best of the region’s vintages, while three restaurants make use of vegetables and herbs harvested from the resort’s own organic garden. Apropos of a spa in wine country, nail treatments come with wine and cheese tastings, and scrubs and masks are individually blended with grapes, salts, herbs, and other natural ingredients.

Already a landmark on the Bangkok skyline, the 77-story MahaNakhon tower was designed by the Dutch firm OMA and opened at the end of 2016. The mixed-use tower encompasses the Bangkok Edition Hotel, nearly 50 floors of the super-luxury Ritz-Carlton Residences, and the MahaNakhon Observation Deck, offering tourists 360-degree views of Bangkok from its top four floors. At the base of the tower, the MahaNakhon Cube is home to markets and restaurants such as Dean & DeLuca and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon.

Head chef Bee Satongun and co-owner Jason Bailey, a husband-and-wife team, are dedicated to bringing back lost recipes and techniques of heirloom Thai cooking. Paste is one of Bangkok’s most exciting Thai restaurants, and the Michelin judges have duly noted that fact by gracing it with a star. The cuisine is based on century-old family recipes served with innovative twists and an attention to detail that make it as aesthetically pleasing as it is delicious. Signature dishes include black cod poached in duck lard and larb salad with pheasant, hog plum leaves, and edible flowers, but really everything is good.

The unofficial world capital of massage, Bangkok has no shortage of choice venues for kneading, pummeling, and pampering. Nonetheless, some places stand out above others. A case in point is the Oasis Spa, which offers one of the most idyllic spa experiences in the Thai capital. Hidden away down a quiet soi (small street) in the Sukhumvit area, the spa’s cool white buildings have 12 treatment rooms with louvered wooden doors and are surrounded by lush greenery, lotus ponds, and water features. The meditative atmosphere is the perfect setting for a range of treatments that include signature massages, body scrubs, facials, and hydrotherapy.

Gaa is located directly opposite Gaggan, Bangkok’s most famous eatery, which was named the best restaurant in Asia in 2017. The brains behind the venture is Garima Arora, former sous chef at Gaggan and chef de partie at Noma. A native of Mumbai, Arora doesn’t shy away from her Indian roots. They are balanced, however, by international influences, including prominent Thai flavors. As you would expect from someone with her pedigree, Arora gives full rein to her creativity throughout the tasting menus (10 or 14 courses), with dishes such as grilled pork ribs marinated with split-pea miso and served with chopped shallots, spring onions, and pomegranate seeds showcasing her talent.

One of Thailand’s most loved dishes, som tam (green papaya salad) is ubiquitous in Bangkok, with vendors across the capital pounding together the essential components of shredded fruit, garlic, fish sauce, palm sugar, and lots and lots of chili. One of the best places to sample a truly delicious version is this friendly venue tucked away in the backstreets of Silom. Besides serving their versions of som tam, a gargantuan barbecue produces beautifully smoky grilled chicken wings. While these are the stars of the show, the restaurant also does a winning line in other classics from northeast Thailand such as kor moo yang (grilled pork neck).

Considered by many as Bangkok’s de facto city centre due to its location by the teeming Siam skytrain station, Siam Paragon has established itself as one of the most popular of the city’s temples of consumerism. With its easily navigable layout and tremendous range of shops, its elevated status comes as no surprise. Premium brands to be found here include Jimmy Choo, Versace, Hermes and Rolex while high street fashion is represented by the likes of Uniqlo, Gap and Zara.

The undisputed king of Bangkok dive bars, Wong’s Place has a character of its own. It’s hard to describe exactly why you should go to this hole-in-the-wall institution near Lumpini Park. The furniture has seen better days, the toilets are nobody’s idea of a treat, and the service ranges from eccentric to downright surly. The fact that it is now one of the few venues in the city that remains open until the wee hours might explain its popularity. But really, it’s the fact that—for all its faults—the bar retains an unpretentious “up-for-it” vibe that is largely missing from more refined places. On quiet nights, there’s not a lot to recommend it, but visit on weekends and there’s a good chance you’ll fall under its beguiling spell.