Search results for

A Cape Town favorite Italian restaurant that is always packed, with families, lovers on a special date, friends, even though it’s not cheap Italian food by any means. The pastas are divided into long and short varieties – corta and lunga – and you will find the standard dishes plus many variations. Take a table on the verandah on balmy summer evenings.

Old San Juan offers historically and culturally significant experiences including a walk through 500-year-old forts, visits to UNESCO sites, historic churches, museums, the second oldest cathedral in the Americas and Ponce de Leon’s mansion. Cobblestone streets and pastel buildings are perfect for exploration during the day and variety of restaurants and shops make for a complementary evening.

The Power and the Glory is a cool bistro in the center of Cape Town that has attracted a cult following among locals. The relaxed style, the bearded staff, the folding chairs, and the sidewalk stools may remind you of a Brooklyn cafe. If you can snag a chair, it makes for a great place to work or to have a meeting over a light breakfast. In the evening, the place is usually packed with revelers. Try the quiche in the morning, the pretzel bun hot dog in the evening, and the Nutella cheesecake for dessert.

It’s always a nice thing to see young Moroccans making their mark in a city that brings foreign investors by the droves—and the Hadni brothers have certainly done that in the shape of Baromètre. More akin to the speakeasies of New York and Barcelona than the posh hotel bars of the Red City, the brothers have come up with an innovative list of attention-grabbing cocktails that come in puffs of smoke and bespoke stemware and complement crowd-pleasing gin and tonics and Grey Goose martinis, while the decor has more in common with a glamorous turn-of-the century pharmacy than your usual drinking den. Recently they’ve added gourmet tapas so you can make a night of it, but like the cities that inspired them, the later you go, the livelier it will be.

A stalwart on the medina dining scene for several years now, Nomad has fabulous views of bustling Place des Épices and takes a bold, creative approach to Moroccan dining. The yellow-and-black ‘60s-inspired space has several dining areas and rooftop terraces, which make lingering over lunch or dinner a joy; the food is a lighter, brighter take on local cooking that plays with traditional flavors and elevates them into something fresh and exciting. To start, try their delicately spiced Moroccan gazpacho or a shaved cauliflower and fennel salad scattered with toasted almonds; perhaps followed by a hearty plate of roasted bone marrow scattered with preserved lemons, cumin, and mint; then finishing with a hibiscus-infused panna cotta. Alcohol isn’t served here, but with food this enticing, you won’t miss it.

Although medina dwellers tend to favor local markets for their daily shopping, and tourists enjoy strolling them to get a sense of life in the ancient city, the art deco fresh-produce market in the Ville Nouvelle provides a less harried experience. This is where you’ll find premium regionally grown fruits and vegetables, ranging from gorgeous artichokes, peas, and fava beans in the spring; sweetly fragrant peaches, nectarines, and melons in the summer; and earthy sweet potatoes, great bunches of fennel, and Jerusalem artichokes going into the autumn and winter. Haunches of beef and lamb hang from butchers’ hooks, and the catch from Kenitra and Tangier lays glistening on ice-covered wooden slabs. The market is a great place to stock up on dried fruits and nuts, and souvenirs of herbs and spices, handwoven baskets, and Moroccan serving platters. After shopping, stop at one of several cafés on lively Mohammed V Boulevard for freshly squeezed orange juice or a coffee strong enough to make your nerves jangle, and watch the world wander on by.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

No matter where you are staying in the UAE, you can’t leave without visiting the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. The mosque, the third-largest in the world, is the final resting place of Sheikh Zayed, the nation’s founder. Even on the hottest summer day, the white marble floors—inlaid with mosaic flowers and vines—remain cool underfoot, and the scale of the space will impress even the most casual observer: The main hall can hold about 7,000 people. Take a tour and learn about the iconography of the intricate tiles and mosaics. Marvel at the huge rug that covers the floor in the main worship space; it’s the largest handmade rug in the world. If you happen to be visiting during Ramadan, you could consider joining one of the community iftar dinners, which sometimes serve as many as a thousand people in an evening.

It would be almost churlish to come to Marrakech and not experience Grand Café de la Poste. After opening in the 1920s, it fast became a lively brasserie and meeting place, and much of the rest of the neighborhood sprung up around it, establishing Gueliz as the city’s most fashionable quarter. After a revamp in 2005 brought a breezy, colonial-style vibe to the verandas (a smashing spot for an alfresco lunch) and transformed the first floor into a luxe wood-paneled bar complete with real log fireplaces, leather armchairs, and crimson rugs, it is today one the city’s most iconic haunts. The food is reassuringly comfortable, too, with staunchly Parisian dishes such as leeks vinaigrette, skate wing with beurre blanc and capers, and crisp-skinned roast baby chicken and chips topping the bill.

Spa lovers will enjoy spending a morning or afternoon getting acquainted with traditional Moroccan bathing and beauty treatments at a hammam. Traditionally, these public bathhouses and steam rooms were where both men and women would go for their weekly ablutions: to be first enveloped in olive oil–based soap infused with herbs, then exfoliated with a specially designed mitt, and finally slathered in a full-body clay mask mixed with rose water (hair washing optional). And while this is still an important part of the local culture, ultra-luxurious variations have crept in, especially at places such as the Royal Mansour, where you can bask in sensational interiors before forking out $350 for a hammam and massage fit for a king. The pool at La Mamounia’s glamorous hammam is one of the highlights, so allow plenty of time to make use of it before indulging in their luxury Evasion treatment, which includes an orange-infused olive oil scrub and amber-honey facial exfoliation for $130. If you want to try something a bit more local that still feels like a treat—at a fraction of the cost of the above—head for the Bains de Marrakech, which offers great value for what you get. A 45-minute hammam, including a ghassoul clay body wrap costs $24. Understandably, it gets extremely busy, so book ahead.

Tangier is full of history, with every turn holding an ancient secret to the city. The port is a popular place for locals to take in the ocean views, but all the action takes place in the winding streets of the Old Medina. My favorite stop was at the fruit stands. The tangerines are less than fifty cents and the best purchase you can make while in Morocco.

Constructed by Studio KO architects to echo the weave of fine cloth, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum opened in late 2017 to great fanfare. It was particularly poignant because Pierre Bergé, the longtime partner and business head behind the late designer, had died less than a month earlier. No doubt he would have been delighted with what he saw, for the museum is a game changer with its fresh approach to documenting a subject. Many of Saint Laurent’s lauded haute couture prototypes are on display here against a sleek black backdrop, which makes them appear to almost float across the room, and the library is one of the best in the world on the subject of fashion. A separate auditorium hosts seminars, film screenings, and other events, and the café—simply called Le Studio—has become the lunch favorite of the city’s glitterati. Saint Laurent, you can’t help but feel, would have approved.

These meticulously manicured formal gardens on the edge of the medina were planted over a century ago. Inevitably, somewhere along the way they fell into disrepair, but after several years of replanting, renovation, and the odd scandal (reputedly, a pile of human bones were dug up here during the process), they reopened in 2011 as a glorious version of their former selves. In a city that’s near desert much of the year, the gardens represent the only proper green space, a literal breath of fresh air just when you need it most. Straddling the medina and the Mellah (the Jewish quarter), the gardens are the perfect picnic pit stop on a sunny day of exploring Fes, and provide a balm to the frenetic energy of the souks. You’re not allowed to throw down your picnic blanket just anywhere, but you can sneak a sandwich on a shady bench.

Amble through, taking in the zellij-tiled water gardens, festooned with roses and lulled by tinkling fountains. Admire the towering palms and poplar trees before circling back around the pond to the ancient waterwheel. Hit the kitschy, slightly-down-at-the-heels-but-charming-anyway Café La Noria for a pot of mint tea. Or try Mezzanine, a rooftop terrace lounge, for a cold beer or a glass of chilled Moroccan rosé with lush views of the garden’s canopy. (The park is closed on Mondays.)

The city’s most emblematic daily flea market occupies a couple of old hangars on the road to the Palmeraie. Design-loving Marrakchis and their Western counterparts have haunted it for years, looking for bargains with which to decorate their homes. One section is dedicated exclusively to ancient cedarwood doors and wrought-iron windows—all of which can be shipped for a price—but it’s the smaller shops that offer up the real gems. Every time La Mamounia has been renovated, for example, much of its furniture and accessories end up at Souk el Khemis; it’s said locally that nearly everyone has some piece of memorabilia or other from the hotel in their home. These days it’s rather less reliable in terms of finding something fabulous, and prices have increased as traders have gotten wise to the desirability of tulip tables and chairs, butterfly chairs, and cowry-shell lanterns. But those prepared to dig deep and haggle hard are still likely to come away with a gem or three. Indeed, the main problem with spending a morning at Souk el Khemis is the ensuing need to buy a house to put it all in.

Oenophiles exploring South Africa’s Cape Winelands have a fashionable new place to rest their heads. In the gallery- and boutique-filled village of Franschhoek, Leeu House is a Cape Dutch–style building decorated with a breezy countryside aesthetic. The 12 individually styled rooms have neutral hues, sisal and oak accents, and marble bathrooms; two suites have private gardens. After a stroll through town or a trip to the surrounding wineries, guests can cool off in the hotel’s mosaic pool before heading to its glass-ceilinged Conservatory for such seasonal dishes as masala-spiced yellowtail, caught off Cape Point. Hoping to get even closer to the vineyards? A sister property, the 17-suite Leeu Estates, opens in June on the grounds of a first-class winery of the same name, just a three-minute tuk-tuk ride away. Doubles from $220, including breakfast