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Wooden boats ply the 650-foot strait between the drowsy harbor of Pano Koufonisi and the deserted jetty on Kato Koufonisi. This rocky islet, whose only inhabitants are sheep and goats, has some of the bluest, clearest water in Greece. During the summer, the Venetsanos family runs this fantastically ramshackle taverna, where you are welcome to peer into the pots to see what’s cooking. Everything from the garlicky beets to the fish soup and slow-roasted goat is grown, caught, or reared by the owners. Their home-baked pies filled with tomato, onion, zucchini, or foraged greens are deservedly famous, but the Greek salad topped with fresh goat cheese and caper leaves, with warm brown bread for dunking in the olive oil, is worth the trip alone.