JOURNEYS

Porta Romana Is the Milan Neighborhood Worth Building a Trip Around

Three days built around Milan’s craft traditions, from a working silver atelier to a leather workshop that does hand-stitching above its own boutique.
Blonde woman in a silver dress and gray shawl stands in the middle of the beautiful Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Jenny Walton browses the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Photo by Jimmy Pham

In the quiet streets of Milan’s Porta Romana neighborhood, a third-generation silversmith still works the family bench. The artisan shop, which you can visit as part of this itinerary, anchors a new Made Here by Afar episode hosted by Jenny Walton.

An illustrator and author of the newsletter and book Jenny Sais Quoi, Walton lived in Milan until recently and loved returning to explore the city from a new angle. Built around that working silver atelier, an old-guard vintage house, and the other places she visited in the video, this three-day itinerary features lesser-known residential blocks and the canal-side paths of Navigli.

Getting to Milan just got easier: American Airlines added a new nonstop from Miami this year—the only carrier flying the route direct. Book with your Citi® / AAdvantage® Executive card to earn 4X AAdvantage® miles on eligible American Airlines purchases. Plus, it’s the only card with Admirals Club® membership, giving you a place to relax and unwind before takeoff. Walton likes to arrive early and hang out in the lounge, perhaps sketching with a view, for a tranquil transition that lets her start her vacation before she’s even across the ocean. Once you land, central Milan is entirely walkable, with taxis covering the rest.

Man in blue shirt uses a blow torch to melt metal held with tongs

Trip Highlight

Ganci Argenterie Silversmith

Ganci Argenterie is the centerpiece of this itinerary—and the subject of its companion "Made Here by Afar" episode. It’s worth watching before the appointment-only visit: you'll go behind the scenes to see the casting, engraving, and other techniques that go into making the silver objects.
Dark gray Citi American Airlines AAdvantage Executive Mastercard

Trip Designer

Citi® / AAdvantage® Executive card

This itinerary is presented by the Citi® / AAdvantage® Executive card. Beyond the 12X miles you can earn on eligible AAdvantage Hotels® bookings, everyday purchases—like a handmade leather tote—also earn AAdvantage® miles along the way.
A blonde woman in a gray dress and shawl leans forward against a railing to look at the Duomo from the Highline Milano

A view of the Duomo from the Highline Milano

Photo by Jimmy Pham

Day 1:Explore the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Check into the Mandarin Oriental, Milan—housed in four interconnected 18th-century palazzos once owned by the city’s banking dynasties, tucked behind La Scala. With your Citi® / AAdvantage® Executive card, you can earn 12X AAdvantage® miles on eligible AAdvantage Hotels® bookings.

Then, ease into the city with a walk through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Stop at Marchesi 1824 for an espresso and a cream-filled brioche before heading to the newly reopened Highline Milano for a panoramic view of the Duomo’s spires that those in the know get to see. (Pro tip: It’s ticketed with timed entry so you may want to reserve in advance.) For dinner, head to Da Giacomo for tortelli cacio e pepe with raw red prawns, lime, and bottarga—or stick to a classic spaghetti alle vongole.
The fine craftsmanship at the silversmith Ganci Argenterie

The fine craftsmanship at the silversmith Ganci Argenterie

Photos by Jimmy Pham

Day 2:Visit a Silversmith in Porta Romana and Dine at El Brellin in Navigli

The day starts at Ganci Argenterie, the silver workshop at the center of Made Here by Afar [LINK TO VIDEO]—where sterling and fine metalwork are still shaped by hand. Make an appointment in advance to browse everything from candelabras and picture frames to bowls and martini glasses in the showroom.

Also within the same largely residential neighborhood is Fontana Milano 1915, a shop filled with leather totes, carryalls, and small leather goods, all handcrafted by designer Roberta Giacobbe in the workshop upstairs. In the boutique, you’ll find handbags and accessories available only at this Via Trebbia location.

From there, browse Cavalli e Nastri, one of Milan’s longest-running vintage boutiques, before visiting Villa Necchi Campiglio. Designed by architect Piero Portaluppi, the 1930s rationalist villa turned house museum is known for its serene garden and pool.

Dinner is at El Brellin in Navigli, a former 19th-century washhouse on the Vicolo dei Lavandai, with some tables overlooking the canal. Order the cotoletta alla milanese or the ossobuco con risotto and follow that with a nightcap at Bar Basso, the bar credited with inventing the Negroni Sbagliato.
Blonde woman with dark sunglasses in a light pink silk dress, white shawl, and yellow handbag steps off on of Milan's vintage yellow and white streetcars

Walton on one of Milan’s vintage streetcars

Photo by Jimmy Pham

Day 3:Tour Turi Simeti’s Studio

Spend the morning at Studio House Turi Simeti, the late Sicilian painter’s preserved home-studio in Porta Romana. (Note: Admission is free for tours, which are appointment only.) A pioneer of Italy’s postwar abstraction movement, Simeti was known for his minimalist, monochromatic canvases featuring repeating, sculptural ovals.

It’s a quieter, more intimate alternative to the city-center museums. You can browse the open workspace, where his original prototypes, archives, and personal artifacts—down to his billiard table—remain exactly as he left them.

Close out the trip on the city’s southern edge with an early dinner at Erba Brusca, a plant-forward restaurant along the Naviglio Pavese canal. Run by Anglo-French chef Alice Delcourt, the spot is named after the wild sorrel (a tart, leafy green common in Italian cooking) growing nearby. Grab a table on the veranda, where the kitchen garden sets the evening’s menu, and toast to your trip.