San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende, in the heart of colonial Mexico, is an attractive city that has drawn visitors for nearly 100 years. Its color and charm have prompted many visitors to return as permanent residents; many of them are artists and writers contributing to the city’s cultural milieu. Though it’s not the easiest place to reach, loyalists—and they are legion—contend that if you reach San Miguel, your first visit is unlikely to be your last.

Image of an old church tower in the background with potted palms on a balcony in the foreground in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Tania Ramirez/Unsplash

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende is a classic colonial Mexican town, meaning it’s full of landmark sites just waiting to be explored by curious, enthusiastic visitors. Cobblestone streets lead to architectural achievements dating to the 17th and 18th centuries, structures that gave UNESCO impetus to designate San Miguel a World Heritage Site. While there, don’t miss iconic sights like La Parroquia, a neo-Gothic church that is just as interesting when seen from above (via rooftop bars or the hill above town) as at ground level. And don’t dismiss the possibility of exploring just beyond the town; El Charco del Ingenio is a nature preserve offering opportunities for immersive outdoor and cultural experiences.

Food and drink to try in San Miguel de Allende

There’s a little bit of everything when it comes to eating out in San Miguel de Allende. From modern Mexican at popular upscale restaurants like Moxi—the San Miguel eatery of star chef Enrique Olvera—to highly-ranked Japanese, Thai, Peruvian, and Argentinean restaurants, you’ll find chefs eager to share their considerable talents with you. A large variety of international sweets can be found here, especially at the bakery El Petit Four. And if you’re looking for drinks in atmospheric settings, the rooftop bars La Azotea and Luna can’t be beat—especially at sunset.

Culture in San Miguel de Allende

Important chapters in Mexican history were written in San Miguel de Allende, whose very name references one such chapter and its central protagonist: Ignacio Allende, a Spanish Army captain who ultimately embraced and advanced Mexican independence. Colonial influences are visible throughout the city, primarily in its well-preserved architecture, which was one of the justifications for UNESCO’s 2008 designation of San Miguel as a World Heritage Site. But contemporary San Miguel also reflects the influences of its large expat population. Artists and writers, most of them from the United States, have flocked here for decades, making their mark on cultural life and serving as the impetus for the city to be as bilingual and bicultural as it is.

Shopping

Arts and crafts are the thing to buy in San Miguel de Allende, and despite—or perhaps because of—its large expat population, San Miguel’s traditional and local crafts thrive, and are widely available at local markets, galleries, and workshops. Look for products made of wool, wood, and metal at the town’s artisan market. Contemporary crafts and artworks are available, too, both by expat and Mexican artists; one excellent place to find them is at Fabrica La Aurora, an art and design center located in a former textile factory. Today, it’s home to more than 40 galleries and shops, and artists host open studios in their workshops each week.

Practical Information

San Miguel de Allende, located in the state of Guanajuato, is one of the key cities in Mexico’s colonial heartland. However, it’s hardly the most accessible by air; the closest airports are Querétaro (QRO) and León (BJX), approximately 45 and 70 miles away, respectively. Renting a car at the airport is recommended, but be aware that parking in San Miguel is limited. Temperatures average between 74 and 81 degrees year-round, making the city an excellent four-season destination. Bring layers, though; mountainous environs make for quick temperature changes. The official language is Spanish and the currency is the Mexican peso. Tipping is appreciated in restaurants and for hotel and taxi services. Voltage is the same as in the United States.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
Discover the cobblestone streets of Mexico’s colorful San Miguel de Allende for a tour of Gothic architecture and curated tequila tastings.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Peru hotly contested a UNESCO recognition of Mexican food as cultural heritage, arguing its cuisine was equally worthy. While diners wait for that second designation to be made, they can drop in at San Miguel’s La Parada—literally “The Stop”—and enjoy a local taste of the Andean nation. Owner Juanito is best known for his ceviche—seafood cured in citrus juices—but also offers Los Fresquitos, coastal dishes served tapas-style; romantics should order the arroz afrodisiaco, accompanied by an artisanal Peruvian cocktail, such as the most authentic pisco sour in town. Visitors dining in large groups often go for the whole tapas menu.
Local chef Donnie Masterton long ago refined the art of matching sensory experience to fine food, and The Restaurant, on Sollano in the Centro, offers thrills on every level. Dinner here is an occasion for shirts with collars for men and shoes otherwise reserved for dancing for the women. (Dancing, by the way, often erupts in the bar in the wee hours, so it’s good to be prepared.) And while every night at Donnie’s proves a visual treat, Thursday nights are the see-and-be-seen scene, when locals stop in for gourmet burgers—available that night alone—with their Chateau Puy Blanquet St. Emilion Grand Cru.
Viñedos San Lucas is a new multi-use development fifteen minutes outside downtown. Its gracious, yet rustic hacienda vibe is attracting new neighbors plus locals and visitors to a complex that includes a quaint hotel and spa, two Mediterranean restaurants, one of the region’s finest wine cellars and even a polo ground. Vineyard excursions (don’t miss the lavender and olive groves) offer a glimpse of a Mexico few know; the mood is divinely bucolic. Time flies painlessly over wine and conversation, both outdoors and in.
As more and more sophisticated travelers have turned up in San Miguel de Allende, the culinary scene has evolved apace. The jewel-box-like Moxi, inside the edgy Hotel Matilda, is a mandatory for foodies (and delicious even if you just like eating) with dazzling takes on Mexican recipes by Chef Pancho Ibáñez, who relies on organic, locally-sourced ingredients. Fun fact: moxi is the Otomí word for “craving;” adventurous diners get it right away. Swing out for the tasting menu and its near-impossible dazzle.
Husband and wife Gil and Rebecca Gutiérrez run the ranch known as Zandunga, some twenty minutes from central San Miguel. Every Sunday—and only on Sunday—the family-friendly ranch opens its gates to visitors and guarantees fun, in everything from live jazz and blues to outdoor dining and dancing, plus impressive country-style buffets groaning beneath grilled meats, tacos and other regional delights. The gringos love it, but you’ll see locals and Mexican tourists there, too. A day in the country that won’t bust your budget.
Before becoming well-known on the tourist and expat scene, San Miguel de Allende was a favorite getaway for artists, from Mexican writers and painters to Hollywood stars of the Golden Age. One of that era’s most notable hosts was opera singer/poet José Guadalupe Mojica, whose 17th-century hacienda now houses this charming boutique hotel. Spread out around a flower-filled courtyard, the 14 accommodations include standard rooms, junior suites, and suites—though no two are the same: Even in the entry category you might find a fireplace, second-floor loft, canopy bed, or original stone wall; suites up the ante with oversize bathtubs set near a second fireplace, or private terraces with views of the cathedral. Antiques and handcrafted furnishings abound, as do stories about the villa’s illustrious former guests. Set alongside the courtyard fountain, the restaurant celebrates authentic Mexican flavors (think breakfast enchiladas and chilaquiles)—and serves brunch until 1 p.m. daily, for mornings that are off to a slow start.
When it opened in 2010, the Matilda injected contemporary style into San Miguel’s old-town hotel scene—and the accolades have been pouring in ever since. On a quiet side street a block from the lush Parque Juárez—and past a small entry courtyard shaded by jacaranda trees—the boutique lodging has filled its public spaces with modern art and decor: Witness the video installation wall behind the reception area, the Aldo Chaparro light sculpture in the bar, and the works by noted “naked crowd” photographer Spencer Tunick in the hallways. (One piece that doesn’t fit the mold is the 1940s-era painting by Diego Rivera of the owner’s mother Matilda, which hangs in the ground-floor lounge.)


Bright and airy guest rooms are spread out over a few small structures and have streamlined custom furnishings, plush linens, and Malin + Goetz bath amenities. Cap a morning spent touring the city’s famous cathedral with a dip in the small infinity-edge pool that sits in the central courtyard, or a Tata Harper facial at the jewel-box spa; body treatments use fresh ingredients like corn, cocoa, and locally grown lavender custom-blended in the on-site apothecary, and a private hammam rounds out the perks. Then enjoy elevated local delicacies at the indoor/outdoor Moxi restaurant, featuring ever-changing tasting menus by celebrated Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera.
There was some trepidation among locals when Rosewood first announced its plans for this 13 plus–acre resort—the largest in the UNESCO World Heritage Site’s cobblestone historic center. But it didn’t take long for both residents and repeat guests to embrace it. The property evokes an authentic sense of place, with buildings made with the limestone used to build parts of the old town, decor crafted by local artists and artisans, and the same beloved ladies making fresh tortillas and sopes at breakfast since the hotel was under construction. Designed to feel like a hacienda, the 67 rooms and seven multibedroom townhouse residences—some of which are available to rent—are scattered around intimate courtyards and gardens, many featuring art and sculptures; a large outdoor pool, rotating indoor art gallery, and spa featuring treatments inspired by indigenous healing traditions are also on-site, while programs such as the Art Concierge help engage guests with the destination. The cuisine is also a big draw: Savor reimagined Mexican flavors and learn about regional wine at the gourmet restaurant; try a tequila tasting at the bar, which turns into a sushi-and-craft-beer spot on the weekends, or join locals for the popular Sunday brunch.
From the first bite of the generous Mexican breakfast every morning to that final sip of mellow 70-year-old tequila in the evening, you’ll find all your tastes awaken in San Miguel. Buen provecho!
It’s a mouthful to pronounce, but it’ll prove to be among the most authentic San Miguel experiences you’ll ever enjoy. The city hosts over 700 weddings annually, and the prelude to almost every ceremony is a callejoneada, a parade in which the wedding party wanders through cobblestoned streets, tequila in hand, smiles alit, and voices singing. Giant mojigangas—papier-mâché puppets towering 10 feet in the air and dancing wildly—will visually announce the callejoneada, then you’ll start to hear the mariachi tunes. An adorable burro, adorned with colorful paper flowers, pulls a tequila cart from which all attendees indulge. The spirit is contagious, even watched from the curb.