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When former Israeli commando Guli Dabas opened Guli Hagadol, you might have been forgiven for thinking a name like “Guli the Great” was unbridled narcissism. After a chat with the chef, however, we get it: his life is like an adventure book that swoops from Baghdad to Israel, Lebanon to Yemen. All that, plus rigorous military training, are factors shaping his restaurant, serving favorites from various Middle-Eastern latitudes, all prepared methodically and painstakingly. For erstwhile warrior Guli the Great, “Cooking is logistics.”

The popular upscale restaurant Jaso is excellent at lunch or at dinner, but it is especially good for dessert. Chef Sonia Arias holds down the pastry portion of the business, while her husband, Jared Reardon, holds down the savory side of the kitchen at Jaso. If you can’t decide on a single dessert, that’s OK; Jaso offers a dessert tasting menu. Sonia also maintains a small boutique bakery within the restaurant where you can order desserts to go or custom pastries for special occasions.

The clothes at El Palacio de Hierro aren’t anything special, in the sense that they’re the same familiar brands and pieces you could probably find in your basic upscale department store at home. But if you open your suitcase and find that you’ve forgotten to pack some crucial piece of clothing or you need an extra pair of shoes, then El Palacio is a good place to find what you’re looking for. There are several of these stores around the city, and many of them also have a gourmet food court inside, so if you need a coffee or a snack, stop by for a tasty treat.

Classic luxury in a colonial building is what visitors can expect of Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City, located near the swanky neighborhood of Polanco and the sprawling Chapultepec Park. Proximity to the park offers respite from some of the noisier parts of the city, as does the hotel’s own expansive courtyard. Citrus trees and other greenery, tended by the same gardener since the hotel opened, radiate from a central fountain, while sculptures by Mexican artist José Luis Cuevas add even more atmosphere to the peaceful setting. This sense of refinement extends throughout the property, with Four Seasons’ signature service on full display—housekeeping, for example, is performed twice daily, and the staff can arrange for in-room massage services. Guests can also look forward to a contemporary Latin American restaurant, a tequila and mezcal bar, and a health club with a sauna and whirlpool.

After years at its original, jewel-box-like (and maybe even a little solemn) location, the city’s high temple of Mexican regional cuisine has moved to a more expansive—some say more relaxed—space. It includes more light, a bar area for “taco omakase,” and large windows overlooking the garden, plus a groovy, midcentury accent that might recall Manhattan’s late, lamented Four Seasons restaurant. Changes aside, diners can still count on a six-section prix fixe menu, with each section home to multiple bites involving an astounding variety of local ingredients that even most Mexicans have never tasted, all exquisite enough to have placed Pujol on several best-restaurants lists for years running. And yes, you still get a taste of chef Enrique Olvera’s mole madre, well over a thousand days in the pot as of this writing.

First, it was the cupcake craze; now, macarons have made their way to Mexico City. But despite the name of this shop and the confection in which it specializes, don’t expect the usual run-of-the-mill flavors like vanilla, chocolate, and pistachio; Theurel & Thomas create exquisite macarons inspired by and infused with Mexican flavors. There’s a chocolate and churros macaron, for instance, and one of piñon. Other creative flavors include popcorn and caramel and goat cheese and raspberry. You can buy one to eat on the spot or have staff tie up a gift box for you to take home for your favorite sweet tooth.

Much of Mexico City’s fervid contemporary art movement—galleries and collectors abound; the scene is now a launching pad for Mexican artists looking to conquer the world—can be traced to art patron Eugenio López Alonso, heir to the Jumex packaged-juice fortune, who over decades has amassed Latin America’s most extensive contemporary art collection and brought dozens of artists to the international spotlight. The collection’s flagship museum, itself a work of art by the British architect David Chipperfield, is a surprisingly intimate exhibition space that supports a rotating calendar of shows; the basement bookstore will delight bibliophiles and design freaks alike. Right nearby lies the Museo Soumaya, whose dramatic architectural form (which earned it the nickname “the Blender”) makes up for a collection some consider erratic.

My guide, Paco, a.k.a. Francisco de Santiago, 46, is a full time tour guide, and also a former child chess champion and bullfighter (“that was many kilos ago”), orders a flight of artisanal mezcal samples at our first mezcalería of the evening, and instructs me on the proper way to taste the purest of agave drinks. “You spread the mescal on top of your hand, like this, then wait for the alcohol to evaporate, then smell it for citric, floral, or smoky tones.” After smelling, a sip, then another for good measure, you take a bite of orange slice dipped in crushed maguey worms and sea salt. After that, we dive into the city’s tacos and street food, beginning our night with two cups of esquite—boiled corn kernels mixed with lime, chili pepper, and mayonnaise, which we bought from a father-son team who have been working the same street corner for 22 years. I booked my 4-hour “late-night taco and mezcal tour” with Eat Mexico Culinary Tours. Francisco de Santiago of Mexico also runs Every Angle Tours (desantiagotours@gmail.com, tel. 55-2086-0851, $85–145 per person, depending on tour, includes food, beverage, transport, guide); all kinds of specialty culinary tours, or an all-day Frida Kahlo tour of the city.)

Children aren’t left out of the shopping fun in Mexico City, which has dozens of market stalls, shops, and boutiques dedicated to goods made just for them. One of the best is Arroz con Leche, whose clothing is inspired by but not confined to traditional Mexican textiles. Expect whimsical embroidered touches and colorful designs, which will make unique souvenirs for the little ones in your life.

Never underestimate the power of shocking pink. The intimate but lively dining room at Dulce Patria—the smash hit by celebrity chef Martha Ortiz—feels not unlike a stage set. Soon after 2 p.m., it starts to fill with high-powered ladies-who-lunch types, cooing over a menu of updated Mexican classics with extravagant, architectural presentations that are at least half the fun. That said, chef Ortiz’s flavorful sculptures really deliver: Tastes are delicate, authentic, and quite delicious. The well-balanced offering presents ample choices without overwhelming, in favorites like the corn-kernel soup, a full portfolio of quesadillas, duck mole, and an extravagant dessert list (gelatin lovers rejoice) that really does drive home the dulce part. A recent seating included telenovela stars and a former Señor Presidente. And who knew there were so many edible flowers?

This yoga studio in the Polanco neighborhood is a beautiful place to practice. The main studio is inside a geometric dome bathed in light—it’s an instant dose of sanity. I particularly like that they offer Kundalini yoga classes, a breath-based mindfulness practice that helps me feel centered. The ground floor has one of the city’s best health food cafés, Ojo de Agua, which offers fresh juices, a daily vegan soup, and surprisingly great chilaquiles.

Tori Tori is a higher-end but not unaffordable Japanese food restaurant in Mexico City. The chain maintains three locations: one in the Condesa neighborhood and two in Polanco. The most recent of the three features a visually striking space hidden behind a simple black door. The restaurant was designed by architect Michel Rojkind, with interiors by Héctor Esrawe.

Whether they intend to visit Mexico City to participate in the annual PRIDE festivities, or whether they happen to be in town during PRIDE Weekend, many visitors to the capital are surprised by how raucous, how well-attended, and how respectful Mexico City‘s annual LGBT parade is. The parade is a reflection of the diversity and relative safety and freedom LGBT residents of Mexico City experience. The city recently established a subsection of its tourism department specifically for LGBT travelers, and an ever-growing roster of annual festivals and events attracts a growing number of LGBT visitors. The annual gay pride parade is held each June. For specific dates, visit the website of the Secretary of Tourism.

A nondescript shopping arcade in a tony neighborhood might not be the place you’d expect to find one of the world’s top restaurants—but if there’s any place that reinforces the adage about not judging a book by its cover, it’s Mexico City. Biko has been ranked on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for years now. The two executive chefs aren’t as visible as other local chefs on the list, but that may be because they’re constantly in the kitchen, turning out memorable dishes. Guests can order off one of two menus: one is more traditional-inspired Basque cuisine, while the other is contemporary. Expect playful presentation and exceptional service.

Housed in a 1964 structure whose modern lines and central fountain greatly complement what’s on view, this anthropology museum is a repository of the most important pre-Hispanic treasures modern Mexico has discovered. The works are displayed in exhibits that trace the entire history of the Americas’ indigenous population, from the Bering migration to the present day. Exhaustive (and sometimes exhausting) in scope, many visitors choose to jump ahead to “greatest-hits” galleries focusing on name brands like the Aztecs (to see their misnamed calendar stone); the Maya and their artifacts; or the Olmec culture, famed for its colossal (and quite sensual) head sculptures dating back to Mesoamerica’s earliest recorded eras.