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Much of Mexico City’s fervid contemporary art movement—galleries and collectors abound; the scene is now a launching pad for Mexican artists looking to conquer the world—can be traced to art patron Eugenio López Alonso, heir to the Jumex packaged-juice fortune, who over decades has amassed Latin America’s most extensive contemporary art collection and brought dozens of artists to the international spotlight. The collection’s flagship museum, itself a work of art by the British architect David Chipperfield, is a surprisingly intimate exhibition space that supports a rotating calendar of shows; the basement bookstore will delight bibliophiles and design freaks alike. Right nearby lies the Museo Soumaya, whose dramatic architectural form (which earned it the nickname “the Blender”) makes up for a collection some consider erratic.

My guide, Paco, a.k.a. Francisco de Santiago, 46, is a full time tour guide, and also a former child chess champion and bullfighter (“that was many kilos ago”), orders a flight of artisanal mezcal samples at our first mezcalería of the evening, and instructs me on the proper way to taste the purest of agave drinks. “You spread the mescal on top of your hand, like this, then wait for the alcohol to evaporate, then smell it for citric, floral, or smoky tones.” After smelling, a sip, then another for good measure, you take a bite of orange slice dipped in crushed maguey worms and sea salt. After that, we dive into the city’s tacos and street food, beginning our night with two cups of esquite—boiled corn kernels mixed with lime, chili pepper, and mayonnaise, which we bought from a father-son team who have been working the same street corner for 22 years. I booked my 4-hour “late-night taco and mezcal tour” with Eat Mexico Culinary Tours. Francisco de Santiago of Mexico also runs Every Angle Tours ([email protected], tel. 55-2086-0851, $85–145 per person, depending on tour, includes food, beverage, transport, guide); all kinds of specialty culinary tours, or an all-day Frida Kahlo tour of the city.)

Children aren’t left out of the shopping fun in Mexico City, which has dozens of market stalls, shops, and boutiques dedicated to goods made just for them. One of the best is Arroz con Leche, whose clothing is inspired by but not confined to traditional Mexican textiles. Expect whimsical embroidered touches and colorful designs, which will make unique souvenirs for the little ones in your life.

Never underestimate the power of shocking pink. The intimate but lively dining room at Dulce Patria—the smash hit by celebrity chef Martha Ortiz—feels not unlike a stage set. Soon after 2 p.m., it starts to fill with high-powered ladies-who-lunch types, cooing over a menu of updated Mexican classics with extravagant, architectural presentations that are at least half the fun. That said, chef Ortiz’s flavorful sculptures really deliver: Tastes are delicate, authentic, and quite delicious. The well-balanced offering presents ample choices without overwhelming, in favorites like the corn-kernel soup, a full portfolio of quesadillas, duck mole, and an extravagant dessert list (gelatin lovers rejoice) that really does drive home the dulce part. A recent seating included telenovela stars and a former Señor Presidente. And who knew there were so many edible flowers?

Tori Tori is a higher-end but not unaffordable Japanese food restaurant in Mexico City. The chain maintains three locations: one in the Condesa neighborhood and two in Polanco. The most recent of the three features a visually striking space hidden behind a simple black door. The restaurant was designed by architect Michel Rojkind, with interiors by Héctor Esrawe.

A nondescript shopping arcade in a tony neighborhood might not be the place you’d expect to find one of the world’s top restaurants—but if there’s any place that reinforces the adage about not judging a book by its cover, it’s Mexico City. Biko has been ranked on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for years now. The two executive chefs aren’t as visible as other local chefs on the list, but that may be because they’re constantly in the kitchen, turning out memorable dishes. Guests can order off one of two menus: one is more traditional-inspired Basque cuisine, while the other is contemporary. Expect playful presentation and exceptional service.

Housed in a 1964 structure whose modern lines and central fountain greatly complement what’s on view, this anthropology museum is a repository of the most important pre-Hispanic treasures modern Mexico has discovered. The works are displayed in exhibits that trace the entire history of the Americas’ indigenous population, from the Bering migration to the present day. Exhaustive (and sometimes exhausting) in scope, many visitors choose to jump ahead to “greatest-hits” galleries focusing on name brands like the Aztecs (to see their misnamed calendar stone); the Maya and their artifacts; or the Olmec culture, famed for its colossal (and quite sensual) head sculptures dating back to Mesoamerica’s earliest recorded eras.

Designer Francisco Cancino is, like many of his contemporaries, interested in ushering in the new era of modern Mexican fashion, and he’s acquired plenty of admirers in the process. Stop by his Polanco atelier for his women’s clothing: all sleek lines, ample room to move, and seasonless patterns, and made in Mexico.

Josélo’s location right on the periphery of Parque Lincoln—a peaceful park in the upscale Polanco neighborhood—is one reason to stop by for a cup of coffee. You can sit at a second-floor table and overlook the park as you sip and take a break from the capital’s chaos. The other reason to visit is the coffee itself. Beans here are sourced from the state of Chiapas, one of Mexico‘s main coffee-producing regions.

When famed chef and restaurateur José Andrés opened this Mexico City restaurant in 2015, it was his first franchise outside of the U.S. and Puerto Rico. J by José Andrés is located inside the W Hotel in the upscale neighborhood of Polanco, and the interior design would be a satisfying experience even if the food wasn’t absolutely fantastic. All reds and yellows and just short of over-the-top elements (e.g. dozens of tassels) evoke Spain and bullfighting, but in a way that’s totally contemporary and delightfully playful—much like Andrés himself. (If you really want to play, there’s a foosball table in one of the rooms in the restaurant.) Thankfully, the food is fantastic, too. Like the decor, the menu evokes Spain, with classic recipes like ham croquettes alongside dishes that incorporate Mexican elements. Think traditional paella, but garnished with squash blossoms.

Consistent with the trend of sourcing made-in-Mexico products that depart from the Technicolor serapes of days of yore, Onora’s home goods are Mexican-made, but few have the vivid colors that many people have come to associate with Mexican design. Instead, black, white, beige, and gray comprise the palette here, with items on offer including dishes, candle holders, table runners, pillows, bed linens, and more.

Don’t roll up to 199 Campos Eliseos expecting to pop in and shop; this is an appointment-only antiques fever dream, the baby of Rodrigo Rivero Lake, perhaps Mexico‘s most renowned (and obsessive) collector. Paintings, photos, books, and a seemingly endless gathering of objects from Mexico and around the world: Rivero Lake can likely tell you the provenance of all of it. If you’re an antiques enthusiast, don’t miss the opportunity to soak up his knowledge and passion for all things vintage.