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Varina da Madragoa, nicknamed “the best Pataniscas in Lisbon”, and take my word for it, they are. Pataniscas are deep-fried codfish coated in a parsley, potato and onion batter and normally come with red bean rice stew or migas – fried bread and cabbage. Fish is also a good option, especially the Bacalhau (Salt cod), which comes grilled to perfection: crispy edible skin with translucent flesh next to the bone. So if you are ever close to the Ancient Art museum or if you are visiting the Madragoa Quarter this is definitely the place to go: charming, typical restaurant with honest authentic Portuguese cuisine at affordable prices for a city capital.

The actual name of the place is Adega Rio Douro (since it’s facing the river) but everyone knows it by Tasca da Piedade, named after the owner Mrs. Piedade. It’s also known for having “fado vadio” - traditional Portuguese music, here sang by non-professionals every Tuesday in the afternoon from 4pm until 7pm. While the music flows you can try a lot of Portuguese “petiscos”, such as stewed chicken guizzards, meat croquettes, “bifanas” and the crown jewel “iscas de bacalhau” - boiled codfish loin enveloped in a parsley omelette. The symbiosis between food and music is guaranteed, as everything here is done with passion. You might even be lucky to listen to the owner singing a few “fados”.

Located in the Mouraria neighborhood—the birthplace of fado—this restaurant is a prime pick for sampling traditional Portuguese food. The codfish, or bacalhau, is a must here. It is served with plenty of bread to clean your plate.


In the style of a classic tasca (Portuguese tavern), the walls are adorned with blue tiles and many photos, paintings and drawings.

The name of this little-known Alfama gem means simply “Aunt Natércia,” and that’s exactly who will greet you if you manage to snag a seat. Here, you’ll find no-frills, home-cooked Portuguese dining, with classic dishes like bacalhau com natas (oven-baked salted cod with fried potatoes and cream), arroz de pato (duck rice), and folhado de bacalhau (salted cod in puff pastry) being upstaged only by Aunt Natércia herself. She’ll talk your ear off in Portuguese while she cooks and serves—it’s a one-woman show—but her food is so good you won’t even care. Reserve ahead.

If you’re planning on being downtown, or in Lapa, give yourself an hour or two before or after for a recharge at this winning, circa-1923 restaurant. The Nova Capela is right in the middle of the city’s nightlife district, but at that, this Portuguese-influenced locale is the last to lock its doors, just before daybreak. Liveried waiters toil day and night, serving up the joint’s classic dishes: goat in broccoli-rice, braised octopus, plus the most-requested appetizer—the codfish bolinho de bacalhau croquettes, especially yummy here. From there, it’s time for a cold beer or a Portuguese vintage.

When in Lisbon, most tourists make a beeline to Antiga Confeitaria to try its world-famous pastel de Belém. The legendary custard tart is indeed delicious, especially when dusted with a healthy dose of cinnamon, but what these travelers don’t know is that is that the ones at Manteigaria are just as good—if not better. Plus, Manteigaria features an open kitchen, where you can watch the creamy treats make their way from dough to delivery. Avoid the crowds in Belém and get your pastel de nata here instead, then ride out your sugar rush nearby on the atmospheric Praça Luís de Camões in Chiado.