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The Motorcycle Diaries: Tips from the Back of the Saddle

Poland’s Baltic coastline spans nearly 480 miles, with Gdańsk at its center. The area, along with the adjacent Pomerania region, holds many treasures, including the imposing Malbork Castle, the lovely town of Toruń (famous for its gingerbread and Gothic architecture), and, on the far western edge, the new, beautifully sculpted Philharmonic Hall Szczecin. If you only have time to visit Gdańsk, be sure to see Długi Targ (the Long Market), the European Solidarity Center, and Oliwa Cathedral with its famous pipe organ.

Minsk, the austere capital of Belarus and a former Soviet satellite, harbors Beatles cover bands, bookish bohemians feasting on salo and vodka, and the curious legacy of Lee Harvey Oswald.

A journey into the ethnic neighborhoods redefining the City of Light

A short walk from Oliwa Cathedral lies the veritable pierogi paradise Mandu. Pierogi are a sacred part of Polish cuisine—a simple dish that everyone remembers from childhood, usually with a hint of nostalgia—and Mandu respects that tradition while also devising new, creative variations. In addition to classics like minced beef with onion and bacon, Mandu serves international versions such as spicy, deep-fried Korean dumplings with pork, tofu, kimchi, ginger, and leeks. Everything here is made fresh to order, meaning you might have to wait during busy times. Instead of getting impatient, use the few extra minutes to watch the skilled cooks work in the open kitchen.

At just over 540 yards, Długi Targ, which translates to “the Long Market,” isn’t really all that lengthy. Still, it makes for a lovely walk, stretching from the Green Gate at its eastern entrance through the medieval city of Gdańsk to the Golden Gate at its western end. Lined with cafés, restaurants, and souvenir shops worth a stop, the route is also home to picturesque architecture, including historic tenement houses that were renovated after World War II. Be sure to stop at the elaborate 17th-century Neptune Fountain (which represents Gdańsk’s ties to the sea) and, just behind it, the 15th-century Artus Court (a medieval hall fantastically decorated with hunting trophies and models of tall ships hung from the ceiling). A tiny detour down Kramarska Lane behind Artus Court will take you to St. Mary’s, the largest brick church in the world. In this enormous space, which can accommodate as many as 25,000 people, you’ll find a 500-year-old, 25-foot-high astronomical clock, as well as several Baroque statues of angels playing musical instruments. If you’re not afraid of heights, consider climbing the 409 steps to the top of the church tower.

Northwest of the Old Town in the Gdańsk-Oliwa district stands a magnificent cathedral founded in the 13th century by Cistercian monks. Go inside and you’ll discover the world-famous Rococo organ, designed by Johann Wilhelm Wuff (also known as Brother Michael), constructed from 1763 to 1788 and further improved upon by organ masters over the next several centuries. Today it includes 96 registers, more than 6,000 pipes, five manuals, a pedal, and, when a special mechanism is activated, gilded wooden angels that ring bells and blow trumpets. Decorated with a wooden star climbing toward a wooden sky, it’s a spectacle to behold. Stick around for a demonstration, given several times a day to immerse cathedral visitors in the organ’s deep, clear sound.

Sopot is one of Poland’s favorite leisure destinations, and Sopot Pier (Molo w Sopocie in Polish) is its center. An extension of lively Monte Cassino Street—Sopot’s entertainment, dining, and shopping promenade—the pier stretches over a third of a mile into the Bay of Gdańsk. Built in 1827 as part of the local harbor, it was reconstructed after the wars and renovated several times since, gradually becoming the fashionable leisure facility it is today. Since the very beginning, the pier has featured an international dimension—it was conceived by a Frenchman on Polish land belonging to the Kingdom of Prussia; became a popular destination for Europeans during the 19th and 20th centuries, thanks to railway and sea links; and continues to draw travelers from all over the world. When visiting today, you’ll hear several different languages being spoken, and see flags from various countries on the yachts moored on the side deck, which serves as the marina.

When approaching the quiet town of Malbork, whether by road or rail, you’ll catch a glimpse of the towering, orange-red Malbork Castle—one of the most impressive strongholds of the Middle Ages and a designated UNESCO World Heritage site. For the best view, however, continue on to the banks of the Nogat River, where you can see the solid brick structure reflecting in the clear-blue water. The fortress was built by the Order of the Teutonic Knights, who settled in Malbork in an effort to establish their own state on the surrounding lands. They named the area Marienburg, which later became Malbork, to honor Mary, the mother of Jesus. After the second Treaty of Toruń in 1466, which ended the 13-year war between the knights and the Poles, the castle passed into Polish hands and, for the next three centuries, served as the royal residence for Polish kings during their annual visits to Pomerania. It was half-destroyed during World War II but restored to its former glory after an extensive renovation. Today, it remains the largest brick castle in Europe. The fortress is a repository of myths and legends, making a guided tour particularly interesting. You can easily visit the castle on a day trip from Gdańsk, but there’s a hotel on the grounds should you want to spend the night and try to spot some of the resident ghosts.

During the communist era, milk bars could be found in every Polish city. These were canteen-style restaurants where workers could come and eat decent, inexpensive portions of simple food in a no-nonsense setting. Despite their popularity in the 1970s and 1980s, most of the milk bars died away as the Polish restaurant scene was rapidly modernized; however, the few that survived are now increasingly treasured as an important part of Poland’s cultural heritage. U Stasi is well-known for its friendly service (something that milk bars traditionally lacked) while Bar Mleczny Górnik (Miners’ Bar) is basic to the core in all ways except the food, which is consistently good and outrageously cheap.

As the number of bars in Krakow has gradually increased, the spots from which to enjoy a sunset drink have also expanded. One of the most glamorous spots is the Sky Bar on the roof of the Hotel Stary, overlooking the main square. Order a cocktail or a decadent homemade dessert and watch as the bustle of the city plays out below to the occasional tune of the unfinished bugler.

A short walk away from the center of the Old Town is the four-star Hotel Kossak; its rooftop Cafe Oranżeria has a fabulous panoramic view over the Wawel royal complex, the Vistula river, and the Old Town. It’s easy to spend an evening in the Oranżeria and barely notice the food, so spectacular is the view. Fortunately the quality of the cuisine is also first-class and it is rightly considered one of Krakow’s best restaurants.

A local favorite since the 1990s, Bar Przystań is a straightforward fish-and-chips joint located right on the beach in Sopot. It’s always crowded, especially on weekends, with hungry visitors lining up to order cold beers, fisherman’s soup, and fried fillets of Baltic herring, flounder, cod, and more. After placing your order, you’ll receive an alarm tile that will buzz when your food is ready. At that point, head up to the counter, collect your meal, and make a beeline for the sand, then eat under the sun.

The charming Róże i Zen (Roses and Zen) is a café-restaurant, located between two neighboring buildings on a somewhat-secret garden patio that can only be described as magical. In this enchanted setting, guests sit comfortably and take their time, whether in the company of friends, chatting with colleagues, or enjoying a romantic date. Beyond its atmosphere, Róże i Zen is known for its short but delicious menu, filled with freshly made dishes and desserts like homemade pastries and cakes. Whatever you choose, pair it with something from the extensive coffee and tea selection.

As its fish-and-sack-of-flour logo suggests, Farina serves fresh seafood and homemade pasta, prepared with seasonal ingredients to the very highest standards. In addition to Mediterranean fare, chef Monika Turasiewicz also offers a small selection of traditional Polish dishes—her pierogi ruskie are among the best in town—and a special seafood menu Thursday through Sunday. No matter what you order, your meal will start with the restaurant’s signature appetizer of truffle-and-mushroom pâté, served with scrumptious little rolls that are baked in-house. Farina also has a solid selection of wines, plus a sommelier to recommend the ideal pairing.