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The classic, late-morning Mexican breakfast (quite good for hangovers) is typically spicy, abundant, and sophisticated in ways quite distinct from the brunches that have become synonymous with the urban weekend—think solid, cold beer instead of innovative mimosa iterations. But for one of the town’s signature Mexican breakfasts, in one of its lushest courtyard gardens, try the Yucatecan fare at La Casa del Diezmo. And if you just can’t shake where you came from, the eggs Benedict at Lavanda prove to be artistic creations indeed, akin to lotus-flower sculptures.

In the Rossio in Lisbon, there is a tiny, very popular tavern called “Ginjinha Sem Rival” (Ginjinha Without Rivals or The Best Ginjinha), 7 Rua Portas de Santo Antao. This shop was the first to sell this now famous liqueur. The family has produced this brew for about 150 years and opened this establishment after about 27 years, in 1890. They value their recipe and the family still runs the tavern. Ginjinha is a concoction of water, cinnamon, sugar, aguardente (fire water), and sour cherries. Many people really enjoy it. I am sorry to admit that I have tried it and I do not. Stand in the little area by the Church of St. Domingues and watch the people (tourists and locals alike) wait their turn at the small counter. Almost all seem to enjoy the ginjinha and the ritual wait. They step up and the owner pours the drink and asks “Com o sem”? (with or without?) You decide if you want the cherries or not. Be forewarned - the cherries hold most of the liquor and are pretty potent! Stop by and try ginjinha and see if you like it. You might want to try another tavern or two and compare the liqueurs. This is a fun stop to add to your “to do list” in Lisbon.

San Miguel’s iconic landmark, the Parroquia (officially the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel), is now world-famous. Look for its eclectic, neo-Gothic spires, crowning the city skyline, to locate the downtown area called the Centro. In 1880, self-taught mestizo architect and stone quarry master Zeferino Gutiérrez is said to have designed the church’s facade based on postcards of European cathedrals. He mapped out each day’s scope of work in the sand with a stick, since blueprints would have required reading and writing, two skills his craftsmen didn’t possess. You need not listen closely to hear La Luz, the largest of eight bells, tolling the hours clearly.

International cuisine proved slow to arrive in San Miguel, but the city now boasts multiple annual international food festivals, leading to more permanent international establishments. French-themed Chamonix (pictured here), which was early on the scene, is a sure bet for any Gallic standard. Berlin Bar & Bistro enjoys long-term status in town—Carlos cooks up a popular bratwurst among other German specialties—and the Lebanese dining room Fenicia has been serving great lamb for an age. Newcomers Bhaji Curry House and Russian bistro Verintort Café have upped the ante for globe-trotting taste buds.

Formerly Belcampo.

Each of the 16 rooms at Copal Tree Lodge is a spacious villa-style suite set on the edge of the jungle, which gives a sense of privacy and peacefulness. Guests shouldn’t be surprised to see coatimundi, agouti, and other wildlife while showering in the spa-style bathrooms with their floor-to-ceiling windows. Tile floors, comfortable beds wrapped with gauzy mosquito nets, and private verandas are standard in every suite, as is Wi-Fi and complimentary laundry service, and the hotel has a pool and a restaurant/bar. The numerous outdoor activities include exploring Copal Tree Lodge’s chocolate trail and kayaking or canoeing on the Rio Grande River at the base of the property; various trips can be organized off-site, too. The hotel is closed from mid-September to late October.

Thanks to the grandson of the founder (Manuel Aquino de Azevedo Rua), who now manages the shop, this lovely place is still open. Notable people like Fernando Pessoa and Spain’s King Carlos have been among its customers. Even with fashion changes over the years, the hat shop has been able to keep on going, adapting to new times. It has hats for men and women. Do you need a wedding hat, a beret, or a fancy number with plumes? Take a look at this shop.

Shakespeare said it best: “If music be the food of love, play on.” He’d be impressed by the dining options in San Miguel that foster romance through live music. Mama Mía hosts music on several stages in its sprawling complex. For great jazz served with a Caesar salad prepared tableside, diners pop into Tío Lucas. Ask owner Max for a prime spot. The place may be jammed primarily with Canadians and Americans, but its lineup still elevates San Miguel to one of Mexico’s best jazz towns.

The canal’s descent back to sea level begins at the Pedro Miguel Lock, whose single step is almost quaint in comparison what’s happening in the canal’s other two sets of locks. Yet, so vitally important is it that Presidents Theodore Roosevelt and William H. Taft both stopped to inspect excavations and address workers here. The lock is so narrow that you could almost reach out and touch the “mules,” the toylike silver locomotives that guide the ships.

As befits a town with 475 years of history, San Miguel supports a number of city tour guides. One of the most popular is the Patronato Pro Niños Historic Walking Tour—a fund-raiser for children’s health care—which leaves from the city center, the Jardín, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 10 a.m., for a two-hour stroll through history. You’ll surely stop at the Chorro (a public patio lined by old, open-air laundry sinks), a popular photo spot. And for real down-to-earth insight (plus a couple of laughs) about San Miguel people, culture, and rituals, book a tour with local storyteller Joseph Toone.

In the heart of the Alto Alentejo, lost in time near the village of Vaiamonte, you will find this real treasure. There once was a tower here that reached up to the sky and gave this place its name. The views from its ramparts could not be more idyllic. At dusk the sun slowly sets and lights up the sky, painting it pink and orange, leaving us with the peace that is typical of the Alentejo landscape. A few minutes later the inevitable happens, and we fall in love with Torre de Palma.Dating from 1338, the views offered from this manor house made us dream and wish to make this a place you can enjoy. After a lot of hard work, this year the dream has become reality with the birth of the Torre de Palma, Wine Hotel.

If you ask anyone in town where you can eat the best fried octopus fillets, the answer will be: Casa Aleixo! Facing Campanhã train Station, you can’t miss it, and you shouldn’t! Founded by a gentleman from Galicia, it was later bought by Ramiro Gonçalves and is now run by his son, Ramiro Gonçalves. Mr. Ramiro Gonçalves (the father) came up with the idea of doing the fried octopus fillets and to ensure quality he would go daily to Povoa do Varzim (35km North of Porto) to purchase the freshest octopus. And the tradition is kept by his son! Every meal is prepared in the “laboratory” (the kitchen) and wine comes from the “pharmacy” (wine cellar) and at the end of the meal you’ll be asked to move to the “torture chamber”, where you’ll drink coffee and pay the check!

The Vintage House Douro is located in Pinhão, in the middle of the Douro Region, classified as World Heritage and the first demarcated wine region of the world. Adapted from an old winery, the The Vintage House Douro is a five star, with a sophisticated but comfortable decoration, typical of the traditional farms of the Douro.


With 36 rooms, 5 suites and 2 luxury suites, all with balcony overlooking the river and the terraced vineyards, The Vintage House Douro has a unique location, between the river and the train station of Pinhão – mandatory stop of famous Douro railway line. In addition to car or train, guests can arrive by boat and dock at the pier right in front of the hotel .

Mexico is the birthplace of one of the world’s most delectable indulgences, chocolate, and it abounds in San Miguel. For unbeatable souvenirs, consider the gourmet sweets from JOHFREJ C&V chocolate shop: like the hand-hammered metal-plate boxes of pralines (in walnut, almond, or hazelnut), truffles (don’t miss the chili-tinged ones), or enjambres (chocolate and nut clusters; the pine nut variety is obscenely good). If it’s hot chocolate you’re after, though, line up for the churros and hot chocolate at Café San Agustín.

New Mexico has an official state vegetable: the chile pepper. (In case you’re wondering, only 13 out of the 50 states even have such a designation.) And the self-proclaimed chile capital is the tiny agricultural village of Hatch--population 1600. But every year, on Labor Day weekend, up to thirty thousand people converge here to celebrate the hot pods during the annual Hatch Chile Festival. Climate and soil here converge for optimal pepper-growing. If you can’t make it to the Rio Grande Valley in early September, don’t worry about the flavor running out--roasted then frozen or canned, or dried and powdered, Hatch chiles can be had year-round. At Pepper Pot, a family-owned restaurant on what passes for the village’s main drag, try them stuffed--the chile relleno--or in sauce form, over enchiladas, burritos, huevos...And when it comes to which sauce to choose, New Mexico has an official state question: “red or green?” The local (and tastiest) way to answer is “Christmas,” and you’ll get both. This is down-to-earth terroir... Incidentally, several years ago, Anthony Bourdain passed through here and proclaimed Pepper Pot’s red enchiladas to be the best he’d ever had. Come judge for yourself. Open for breakfast and lunch, this converted home is a cash-only restaurant. The borders of both Texas and Mexico are only an hour away, and it’s a favorite with local farmers and bikers passing through; if you decide to eavesdrop, you’ll be hearing trilled Rs and twangy English.

During the day on the first Saturday of the month, Rio’s nightlife nexus, Lapa, hosts the Feira do Lavradio. Wander the long aisles of flea-market and artisanal craft stalls, and with time and patience, you’re sure to find real treasures in the form of decorative items, accessories, and antiques. What’s more, Lavradio maintains Rio’s classic street-market vibe, complete with strolling musicians, banter from merchants, and maybe even a capoeira ring. Enjoy a great afternoon right in the midst of Rio’s buzziest restaurants and bars.