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As idyllic a tourist destination as Zanzibar is now, its history is undeniably dark. At the height of the slave trade in the 18th and 19th centuries, some 50,000 people were brought to Zanzibar each year, brutally removed from their homes in West Africa and made either to work on the coconut and clove plantations here or sold off at the market to buyers from around the world. A tour of the original site of the slave market (on whose site now stands an Anglican cathedral, once a building project for freed slaves and now a memoriam with exhibits) is an important reminder of this ugly time. Visiting the dim and suffocating underground chambers to see where human beings were bound and held in chains is chilling.

Sure, you can fly straight into Zanzibar, but where’s the fun in that? The Azam Marine ferry makes for a wonderful adventure from Dar es Salaam to Zanzibar, departing from the port in Tanzania’s capital four times a day. Passengers can sit out on deck as the catamaran edges away from the mainland, taking in the sea breeze, admiring the quaint little fishing boats bobbing about in the sunshine, and watching giant trawlers heading out into the glistening sea. The VIP experience is the way to go—VIP passengers are treated to reclining red-leather seats and a free coffee during the 90-minute journey. Suffer from seasickness? Beware: The water can be choppy in the afternoon, so opt for an early sailing instead. Advance booking is necessary.

Fragrant spice tours, ancient architecture, beaches as white as the inside of a coconut: Zanzibar is the stuff of travel legends. One of the many idyllic beaches to choose from in Zanzibar is Matemwe, which has a laid-back, village charm to it. Local women harvest seaweed in the shallows, kids run and play along the sand, and tourists dip in and out of the smattering of beachfront restaurants and shacks serving Swahili cuisine. About an hour’s drive from Stone Town, Matemwe is a place of pure relaxation, where you can wade in the balmy Indian Ocean or sit on the perfectly pale sand under the shade of the palm trees. Should the novelty of lazing about wear thin, head for the One Ocean dive center, which offers snorkeling and scuba-diving trips off the shore.

Read articles from this print issue of Afar Magazine.