Search results for

Cape Town already feels like it’s at the tip of the world, but the sensation is magnified at Tintswalo Atlantic, where guests get cozy in suites just a few feet from the ocean. Park in the lot just off famed Chapman’s Peak Drive and take the hotel van, which winds its way down a steep road and drops guests at a collection of semi-detached units. Each is themed after a different island—Zanzibar, Antigua, Sicily, and, oddly enough, Robben (where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned). The details are thoughtful, however, from the elaborate, wood-carved headboards to the seashell-encrusted bathroom walls and idyllic paintings. It’s hard to find a setting more romantic and remote. In the unlikely event that you want to venture out, there’s a shuttle that whisks guests to Cape Town, just over 30 minutes away.

To visit Mwanza is to head off the traditional tourist trail of Tanzania. Here, on the coast of Lake Victoria, commercial ships fish for Nile perch and sardines that will be sold across Africa; every year Tanzanians flock to Mwanza for work opportunities. Explore this thriving and interesting city with a stop at the Mwaloni fish market (where you’ll also find produce brought in from villages around the lake) and take in the pretty views of Lake Victoria. Bismarck Rock, a tall boulder balancing atop a jumble of rocks out in the lake, can be visited en route to the ferry terminal. Ferries carry passengers across the lake to Bukoba and points along the shore. From Mwanza, it’s also possible to hop a train across the country to Dar es Salaam, but be warned—it’s regularly delayed for as many as 12 hours.

Ngorongoro Crater is one of the world’s greatest natural spectacles, its magical setting and abundant wildlife never failing to enthrall you. However the crater is just a small part of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area which offers a whole range of attractions for the adventurous traveler. Superb accommodations—from excellent campsites to luxury lodges—ensure that you can relax at the end of each day in style. Everything about the Ngorongoro experience is designed to make your visit a real authentic and memorable African journey. Set in the nothern Tanzania, sharing part of the Serengeti plains to the northwest and with the towns of Arusha, Moshi and Mount Kilimanjaro to the east, Ngorongoro forms part of the unique Serengeti ecosystem. The terrain embraces several distinct habitats from open grassland to mountain forest, and from scrub bushland to highland heath. The area contains sites of international paleontological and archaeological importance. Around 25,000 animals live in the crater throughout the year.

When I initially heard about the ferry trip to Zanzibar, I was expecting this to be an old worn-out boat in dire need of repair, slowly shuffling out of the harbor, jam-packed with passengers jostling to find a seat. Instead, I boarded a brand spanking new boat, after a rather pleasant wait in the ferry terminal in the first-class area. The ferry even has a safety video, plush reclining seats, and a cafe. There are several “fast ferry” operators offering this service throughout the day, every day. The journey takes about 90 minutes and gives you a fantastic view of Zanzibar and Stone Town harbor, I would definitely recommend first class because your luggage is handled separately and this will avoid you having to join in the absolute mayhem at the baggage carousel.

As idyllic a tourist destination as Zanzibar is now, its history is undeniably dark. At the height of the slave trade in the 18th and 19th centuries, some 50,000 people were brought to Zanzibar each year, brutally removed from their homes in West Africa and made either to work on the coconut and clove plantations here or sold off at the market to buyers from around the world. A tour of the original site of the slave market (on whose site now stands an Anglican cathedral, once a building project for freed slaves and now a memoriam with exhibits) is an important reminder of this ugly time. Visiting the dim and suffocating underground chambers to see where human beings were bound and held in chains is chilling.

Sure, you can fly straight into Zanzibar, but where’s the fun in that? The Azam Marine ferry makes for a wonderful adventure from Dar es Salaam to Zanzibar, departing from the port in Tanzania’s capital four times a day. Passengers can sit out on deck as the catamaran edges away from the mainland, taking in the sea breeze, admiring the quaint little fishing boats bobbing about in the sunshine, and watching giant trawlers heading out into the glistening sea. The VIP experience is the way to go—VIP passengers are treated to reclining red-leather seats and a free coffee during the 90-minute journey. Suffer from seasickness? Beware: The water can be choppy in the afternoon, so opt for an early sailing instead. Advance booking is necessary.

Fragrant spice tours, ancient architecture, beaches as white as the inside of a coconut: Zanzibar is the stuff of travel legends. One of the many idyllic beaches to choose from in Zanzibar is Matemwe, which has a laid-back, village charm to it. Local women harvest seaweed in the shallows, kids run and play along the sand, and tourists dip in and out of the smattering of beachfront restaurants and shacks serving Swahili cuisine. About an hour’s drive from Stone Town, Matemwe is a place of pure relaxation, where you can wade in the balmy Indian Ocean or sit on the perfectly pale sand under the shade of the palm trees. Should the novelty of lazing about wear thin, head for the One Ocean dive center, which offers snorkeling and scuba-diving trips off the shore.

Read articles from this print issue of Afar Magazine.