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Thelins is an iconic Stockholm bakery that has been around since the early 1900s. Its first store opened on St. Eriksgatan in Stockholm’s Kungsholmen district, and today Thelins has six storefronts and a bakery where all its cakes are baked from scratch. At any Thelins, you’ll find an array of classic Swedish cakes—from Prinsesstårta (princess cake) with green marzipan coating and sponge cake layered with jam and cream to a variety of fruit and chocolate cakes.

Minimalist and simple yet functional and attractive, Swedish design is often heralded worldwide as always trendy under the “less is more” mantra. Established in 2007, HAPPYsthlm (sthlm = Stockholm) located in Gamla stan is a Swedish design company founded by designers Katarina Andersson, Kajsa Aronsson and Caroline Lindholm, and the store sells handmade fabrics, textiles, ceramics, and jewelry.

If you’re a fan of late Swedish author Stieg Larsson’s award-winning Millennium trilogy, or have read his book selections on long-haul flights, you might be interested in exploring the backdrops and settings of this suspenseful crime drama series. Take a guided tour (group or individual) that walks you through Stockholm’s edgier bohemian neighborhood of Södermalm, and visit spots like Mellqvists Kaffebar (which both fictional journalist Mikael Blomkvist and real-life author Stieg Larsson frequented) and Fiskargatan 9—an expensive address with stunning views over Djurgården and Gamla stan (Old Town) where protagonist Lisbeth Salander buys her 21-room apartment.

From hipsters, fashionistas, and bohemian chic youngsters to executives in business suits, dads pushing strollers, foreigners in ethnic garb, and guidebook-wielding tourists, a true cross section of Stockholm’s diverse residents populates Medborgarplatsen (“Citizen Square”), a central and iconic plaza that is prime for people watching on the island of Södermalm. Once night falls, it becomes one of the active nightlife spots in town—with lounges, clubs, and live music in nearby Debaser.

For moderately priced rarities that won’t destroy your wallet, check out Wigerdals Värld, which carries a selection of glass and ceramics as well as furniture like antique sofas, easy lounging chairs, and coffee tables.

Let’s face it, Stockholm is three things for travelers: It’s cold. It’s expensive. And it’s home to some of the most gorgeous human specimens on this dear planet of ours. I may have found the perfect place to remedy these issues, should they be considered as such—Gilda’s Café. Set in the heart of the boho district of Södermalm in south Stockholm, Gilda’s is the perfect place to shelter from the cold with a warm cup of coffee in hand, inexpensive pastries (fika, anyone?), and some good old people watching. Trust me when I say that people watching does not get any better than in Stockholm. Locals are very fond of hipster ways. They are relaxed, friendly, and could all be on the front cover of a fashion magazine. Beautiful people aside, Gilda’s is a little slice of heaven on its own. Think unmatched tableware, indie music, eclectic furniture, and delicious homemade dishes. Worlds away from the compartmentalism and practicality of Ikea. The change of scenery is most welcome and enjoyable. Save your precious kronors, daydream about a handsome Swedish Viking while sipping a comforting latte, and go to Gilda’s. It’s the ultimate south Stockholm thing to do, and you won’t regret it.

Centrally located in Stockholm, the King’s Garden is a lively urban garden/park/plaza that connects the harbor with one of Stockholm’s main shopping districts. It contains a series of “outdoor rooms” including a formal entrance, fountain with planting parterres, stage for performances, a lawn area (was that artificial turf?) and a plaza with a sunken pool surrounded by steps ideal for people watching, oddly focused on a TGI Friday’s Restaurant as a focal point. There is lots to do here and this popular space is bordered by restaurants, galleries, cafes and night clubs. The King’s Garden has been dubbed “Stockholm’s outdoor living room” and there is a full schedule of concerts and performances throughout the summer (when I visited) as well as an ice skating rink in the winter.

Eating out in Stockholm can be downright expensive, and it’s not uncommon to spend upwards of $15 just for a sandwich. A local insider tip is to keep an eye out for signs that say “Dagens rätt” or “Dagens lunch,” placed outside restaurants and windows especially around lunchtime. This means “dish of the day,” usually served at an affordable price. In most places, the total price will include a salad buffet, bread and butter, and water as well as coffee.

Sweden’s southernmost region, Skåne, feels like its own country. Malmö is its eco-friendly capital, plus there’s historic Helsingborg, university town Lund, and lush, rolling hills in the countryside. They even have their own special dialect. And it’s just a 35-minute dash across the Öresund Bridge from Malmö to Copenhagen, Denmark.

Östermalms Saluhall is one of Stockholm‘s most famous markets. While the prices aren’t cheap, since 1888 the market has been where those looking for the very best fish, meat, and produce shop. For most travelers in Stockholm, it provides a good lunch option if you want a fish sandwich or snack in an atmospheric Victorian food hall. The Saluhall will be closing for renovation and moving to a temporary building across the street in January 2016, and is scheduled to return to its home in 2020 after it has been refurbished and upgraded, ready to serve discerning Stockholm residents for another 125 years.

December in Stockholm is a great time to explore various Christmas markets (Julmarknader) around town. At Stortorget in Gamla stan (Old town), you’ll find the city’s most popular Christmas market where you can pick up a variety of porcelain ornaments, festive decorations, and wooden gnomes as well as dig into gingerbread cookies (pepparkakor), mulled wine (glögg), candied almonds, jams, and deli meats.

In the last decade or so, Swedish cuisine has undergone a radical transformation, with young chefs at popular restaurants embracing seasonal ingredients that are local, organic, and sustainable at popular restaurants, alongside food halls and cafés serving traditional dishes and pastries.

The plains and fields of Southwest Sweden—known as Västergötland—are filled with farms and various industries, but the province also played an important part in early Swedish history. This part of the country was inhabited long before Christianity was introduced, and visitors will find rune stones, prehistoric graves, and remnants Viking life in the area.

Born free, today’s post-apartheid generation asks, what’s next?

The fishing villages along the Bohuslän coast and archipelago once made their fortune from the sea, hauling in herring and other catches. Now the region draws its many visitors during summer who come for the sailing, swimming, kayaking and other outdoor adventures.