Search results for

If you’re interested in buying (or browsing) musical instruments in Istanbul, then head to Galip Dede Caddesi in Galata, between Istiklal Street and the Galata Tower. Here you’ll find an enormous range of percussion instruments such as darbukas, davul, frame drums and symbols; stringed instruments including the bağlama and saz; or Middle Eastern wind instruments like the mizmar. Western-style instruments are also available. If you have the time to shop around, it might also pay to visit the shops on Ataturk Caddesi in Unkapani, just down from the aquaducts in Fatih.

Leb-i derya is one of those fabulous fancy restaurants perched high above the streets of Beyoğlu with amazing views of the Bosporus, Maiden’s Tower, Asia and old Istanbul’s peninsula. You could walk past the building so many times on its dimly lit street without realizing how magnificent the view from the top is. This light and bright sophisticated rooftop restaurant offers traditional Turkish flavors with a modern twist, as well as gourmet-style international favorites. In summer, management opens the doors to an open-air terrace ideal for sunset cocktails. It really is an iconic city rooftop for special occasions—or for saying good-bye to Istanbul on your last night in the city. Enter off the sloping Kumbaracı Yokuşu (street) which runs off Istiklal street near Tünel. Reservations are advised.

A multipurpose contemporary art center that opened in November 2011 in the Ottoman Bank building, Salt has a library with thousands of shelves of art publications—the most important, impressive collection in the city.—Sylvia Kouvali

You’ve strolled the 1.5km of Istanbul‘s famous Istiklal Street for a spot of shopping, but hunger sets in and the purse strings are tight. Where do you go for a bite to eat? Answer: Helvetia, a modest lokanta (restaurant) tucked away on a quiet side street in Tünel. With its relaxed, no-frills atmosphere, this place is a local favorite for lunch and dinner. The food is deliciously fresh, generously served, and an excellent value for money. Plates overflow with homemade mezes featuring Turkey’s home-grown produce—olive oils, yogurt, tomatoes, eggplant, potatoes, spinach, kofte, chicken, and more. Choose among the mostly vegetarian mezes by pointing to the dishes lined up on the counter near the open kitchen. To get there: Follow the tram line on Istiklal to the Tünel funicular (tram) exit. With your back to the funicular exit, see a book shop on the other side of the road. Just to the left of this shop is the Tünel Pasaj, a pedestrian arcade lined with cafes and shops. Walk through the arcade to the end. You will see Helvetia on the corner as you exit the arcade.

If you’ve been pacing up and down the passages of the Grand Bazaar contemplating that perfect purchase, chances are you’ll need refueling eventually. Hidden on a backstreet just outside gate 16 of the Grand Bazaar is the cozy and charming Keyf-i Mekan Cafe and Restaurant. “Keyfi” means “merriment,” but in Turkey keyfi is also a way of life, one that’s full of pleasure. So expect the small menu featuring delicious Turkish-style home-cooked food to fulfill both these meanings. The food will surely fill the belly and energize you to take those bazaar vendors head on! Choose from the menu of mezes, or meat dishes or peek at the mouthwatering “specials of the day” on the counter. The cafe is open every day, except Sunday when the rest of the bazaar is closed too.

Opened in 2009, this light-filled megamall draws a staggering 25 million annual visitors to its shops and attractions. It can be overwhelming, so it helps to consult the online directory in advance and approach this city-within-a-city with a game plan. Shops include familiar international brands (Adidas to Marks & Spencer to Zara) and Turkish ones, such as Atasay Jewelry, Bilik Deri leather goods, and Van Hatemoğlu for menswear. Forum Istanbul also offers plenty for the kids to enjoy. At the Turkuazoo Aquarium, you can view 10,000 sea creatures and even dive with the sharks, if you’re game. (There are discounts on entry fees to some attractions with the Museum Pass.) You also have your pick of old-school family activities like 10-pin bowling, mini golf, a mirror maze, and movie showings. To reach Forum Istanbul, you can take the Metro from Aksaray station to Kocatepe/Kartaltepe; the train stops right outside.

After a morning of wandering Istanbul‘s winding streets, it is a treat to find a delicious eatery like Datli Maya, ready to welcome you with brick-oven baked bites in the form of lahmacun (similar to a thin-crust pizza) and other delicious menu items, and a cup of sweet tea. Dine in on the cozy second floor, then get a pastry or cake to go on your way out for later. It’s easy to find in the streets of the trendy Cihangir district, with its bright turquoise shopfront and location across from a public gazebo. Lovely space, tasty food, nice people, great find.

Once Istanbul’s notorious prison, a lavish conversion in 1996 transformed this site, set amid the squiggle of lanes behind the colossal competing domes of the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, into the city’s landmark Four Seasons Sultanahmet. Built in 1918, the hotel’s ornate neoclassical architecture has been finely restored, while the enclosed exercise yard is now a courtyard garden where guests can escape the hustle of the historic quarter. Classically designed rooms are awash with light blue and green hues and subtly scattered Turkish textiles and motifs.

On a hot summer’s day, cool off with cocktails overlooking the old city’s minarets on the rooftop A’Ya Lounge. Eagle-eyed history fans can hunt for the 1938 graffiti left by a former inmate on a pillar near the courtyard. Being neighbors with the Hagia Sophia has extra benefits. The Four Seasons’ Extraordinary Experiences service offers a privileged chance to explore Emperor Justinian’s greatest achievement without the crowds, on an after-dark tour of the Hagia Sophia.

One of the world’s most iconic hotels, the Pera Palace first swung open its doors in 1892 and has been a meeting point for travelers in the city for more than 100 years. Ernest Hemingway and Agatha Christie clicked at their typewriters in the guest rooms, Greta Garbo once wafted through the sumptuous lounge, and Alfred Hitchcock drew inspiration for his films while staying here.

The neo-Baroque interior was created by legendary French-Ottoman architect Alexander Vallaury, and luscious jewel-toned Turkish carpets and grand chandeliers immerse guests in the glamour of a bygone age as soon as they step through the front door. The original antique elevator still trundles guests to their rooms, where Old World furniture, classically inspired burgundy textiles, and decadent roll-top baths provide oodles of 19th-century elegance.

The Pera Palace is a timeless grande dame of the golden age of travel and is as much a part of the fabric of Istanbul’s history as the city’s monuments.

Book lovers and bazaar hunters will revel in foraging through the Sahaflar Çarsısı (Beyazit Book Bazaar) for new titles, secondhand books, historical maps, the Quran (in various languages), ancient texts, and other rare finds. The bazaar, between Beyazit Mosque and the Grand Bazaar, was built in 1954, but the site is a historical literary landmark where the Chartoprateia—a Byzantium book and paper market—existed. During Ottoman times, the site became a center for printing and literary trade, drawing many intellectuals and writers to the Beyazit and Grand Bazaar area. Some historians will say Sahaflar Çarsısı is where the first book was printed in Turkey in 1729. Whether this is fact or fiction, the statue in the middle of the courtyard is that of Ibrahim Muteferrika, an Ottoman diplomat who, among many titles, was the publisher responsible for the first book—a two-volume Arabic-Turkish dictionary. The entrance to the bazaar is off Çadırcılar Caddesi (Road), just down from the Grand Bazaar’s Beyazit Gate (Gate Number 7).

Selecting the perfect Turkish carpet or kilim can be like finding the perfect partner—there are plenty to choose from, and patience is often required. With this in mind, you need a carpet seller who will listen to your needs, appreciate your tastes, and avoid pressuring you to choose the wrong one. Noah’s Ark Carpets in Sultanahmet are the sellers I trust. Yusuf and Hamza make the whole buying experience hassle-free and fun and because of this, I’ve bought three carpets from them for myself and for friends in Australia. Noah’s Ark can also arrange door to door international post if you’re concerned about the weight of your luggage. The store is recommended by National Geographic Traveler and Vogue (so don’t just take my word for it). Drop in and see the guys and enjoy a glass of çay while browsing their beautiful collection of carpets and kilims from Turkey and surrounding countries. Before leaving, ask to see their magic flying carpet—it will impress.

This tiny hybrid wine shop–cum–wine bar has impressed many local vino lovers with its intimate ambience, tasty mezes, and friendly service from general manager Suleyman Er and his team. It has imported and local wines available to consume on-site or take away at discounted prices, and it’s perfect for a late-afternoon escape from the crowds of İstiklal Avenue—just 300 feet away—a pre-dinner drink, or a nightcap.

Hotel Empress Zoe, owned by American sisters Christina and Ann, is a little oasis nestled on old Istanbul’s most vibrant cobblestone streets. The hotel, just five minutes from the Blue Mosque and Aya Sophia, has 26 rooms featuring authentic Turkish furnishings, folkloric art, and marble hammam-style bathrooms in a setting resonating that of a charming Byzantine fortress. The décor throughout packs tons of character from the front door to the bar and restaurant area, right through to the villas and suites that line a tranquil archeological garden backing onto the stone ruins of the 15th-century Isak Pasha Hammam. Rest in this enchanting courtyard, and you’ll forget you’re even in Istanbul. The hotel also has a small rooftop terrace with views to the Marmara Sea and the minarets of the Sultanahmet area. Access to the rooms are via a spiral staircase, so those with mobility problems may wish to talk to management about their needs before securing bookings. Check their website for room styles, photos and pricing.

The medieval round Galata Tower built in 1348 has played many roles for Istanbul over the years: A watchtower for Bosphorus trade, an observation deck for spotting fires, the setting of a legendary flight across the Bosphorus, and now a tourist attraction offering 360 degree views of Istanbul. Hands down, it’s the best way to see how the city spreads across its European and Asian sides. Go for sunset, but arrive early to beat the queue.

When the sun finally dips behind the minaret skyline and the moon starts to rise, Sultanahmet Park—between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia—brightens up with a colourful lighting display. In summer enjoy the show by savoring a creamy Turkish ice cream (dondurma) by the illuminated fountain and people watch Istanbul‘s international guests from one of the park benches.