Search results for

For those who love a chicken tikka or a lamb rogan josh, Britain is a famously fulfilling destination, with some of the best Indian food you’ll find outside, well, India. The curryhouses on Brick Lane will ladle out masalas and rice until your belly’s ready to burst, but for a different take, try Dishoom, which operates in five different London locations (and Edinburgh) and specialises in the finger food of Mumbai’s Irani cafés: a fabulous array of grills and snacks, from the delicious lamb kebab to the moreish keema pav (minced lamb or chicken), served on a bun in an environment that recreates the décor of the colonial railways. If you can make it here for breakfast, the bacon naan roll or the spicy scrambled eggs are the perfect way to set up your day.

We have restaurateur Ashok Bajaj to thank for bringing the cuisine of his hometown, Mumbai, to the D.C. dining scene. Both Rasika and now sister restaurant Rasika West End have received rave reviews from both food reviewers and diners. You can often find me lunching at Rasika West End. To start with, I love walking into the bright, airy, modern dining space that feels very inviting. There are three separate dining areas including one that looks like a library. The only thing giving Rasika away as an Indian restaurant is the large silver hand mudra and the distinctive canopied booths, which are designed to mimic traditional Hindu wedding carriages. On the other hand, the food is Indian through and through, and it’s excellent. The menu offers modern takes on farmana (nosh), sigri (griddle), tawa (barbecue), chaat (snack), entrée, and vegetarian selections. Although Mumbai influences much of the menu, there are also dishes inspired by other regions in India. On a recent visit, I feasted on a Keralan-style fish curry—utterly delicious. Be sure to order the naan. It’s made to order so it comes to the table piping hot, with a very thin outer crust with charred bits from the tandoor oven and an airy, slightly chewy interior. Give me the naan and a bowl of curry or dal, and I’m in heaven. Rasika’s menu changes frequently, which brings loyal diners like me back repeatedly! Metro stop: Foggy Bottom

Though the beaches of southern Kerala may get more attention, the Malabar coast shores of the northern part of the state are no less beautiful—and offer plenty of their own attractions. Case in point: Bekal Beach, a wide, sandy stretch along the Arabian Sea, set under historic Bekal Fort. The cove-shaped beach offers plenty of room to stretch out and soak up the sun, shallow waters for swimming, and artistic touches like a rock garden, murals, and public sculptures. If you don’t want to get sand in your shoes, take a stroll along the boardwalk, or venture up to explore the Fort complex. Little ones will like the beach’s children’s park, while adults should come back at night, when the beach is illuminated, to enjoy the magical atmosphere. Further along the shores, you’ll spy fisherman bringing in a daily catch that might include mackerel, reef cod, and tuna.

Set in Kerala’s quiet northwest corner, the 26-acre Vivanta by Taj Bekal Resort is home to the excellent Jiva Spa, a staggering 165,000 square-feet devoted to wellness and relaxation. As Kerala is considered to be the birthplace of Ayurveda (India’s millennia-old “science of life”), the menu is heavy on treatments that highlight traditional techniques and ingredients, and that are designed to both target specific issues and provide general pampering. The signature Abhyanga massage—great for travel-weary bodies—is performed with potent, heated herbal oils, while the Mukhalepa facial brightens the complexion with natural products like saffron; decadent two-hour signature services are also available, along with scrubs, wraps, yoga, meditation, and more. Book a complimentary consultation to find the services that fit your needs, or go all in with a multiday or multiweek program for yoga, detoxifying, Ayurvedic wellness, and other customized goals.

This upscale restaurant offers a glimpse into Kerala’s unique history along with its flavorful meals. Enter a stone archway to find yourself in a courtyard of a restored 18th-century mansion that was first built as a traditional, two-courtyard ettukettu house for the King’s consorts, then later embellished with European architectural flourishes. Choose a seat in the antique-furnished (and air-conditioned) interior, under one of the courtyard’s peaked stone-roof gazebos, or in the garden, surrounded by statues and fountains; all options take on a decidedly romantic feel at dinner when illuminated by candlelight. The menu includes both modern version of regional classics and dishes that highlight the flavors of areas once linked to Kerala by the Spice Route, including Morocco, Italy, and other parts of India. So you’ll find everything from Syrian sampler platters, crab curry, pasta, and fish sautéed with onions and black pepper, and desserts featuring caramel, chocolate, and local coffee—all presented with heritage style.

While some claim that the first Jews arrived in Kerala as early as the reign of King Solomon, historical evidence that is more solid dates their presence here back to the 12th century. The area of Fort Cochin known as Jew Town has seven synagogues, but only the Paradesi Synagogue is still actively used. (Following the independence of India in 1947, many members of the Jewish community chose to immigrate to Israel or other Commonwealth nations.) Constructed in 1567, the synagogue has hand-painted porcelain tiles and an 18th-century clock tower that are both of special interest.

While Cochin’s St. Francis Church managed to survive through the different conquests of the city, its Roman Catholic cathedral was not as fortunate. Construction of the earliest church on the site began in 1505 and it was elevated to a cathedral in 1555. The Dutch spared it (along with St. Francis Church), but when the British assumed control of Cochin, they demolished the building. The current basilica, built in a Gothic style, was consecrated in 1905. It stands as a remarkable reminder of the persistence of Christianity (if not individual buildings dedicated to it) in Kerala, where, unusually for India, nearly one-fifth of the population is Christian.

To get a feel for Kerala’s rich and layered history, head to Fort Kochi. Once a small fishing village in pre-colonial times, this area—now the historic old town neighborhood of the city of Kochi—belonged to the Portuguese for much of the 16th and 17th centuries, then to the Dutch for a little over a century, then to the British until India’s independence in 1947. For all that time, the waterside spot served as an important port along the spice route, with Chinese and Arabian traders sailing through to pick up sandalwood, cloves, cinnamon, pepper, and other local goods. Today, Fort Kochi features myriad reminders of all who have lived and worked here: the Dutch cemetery, Koonan Kurish Old Syrian Church, and the 16th-century St. Francis Church, the Mattancherry Palace (aka the Dutch Palace), colonial Parade Grounds, still-in-use Chinese fishing nets, and the painted tiled-lined Paradesi Synagogue, built in 1567 and considered the oldest active synagogue in the commonwealth. The Indo-Portuguese Museum and Southern Naval Command Maritime Museum provide more context, while Fort Kochi Beach—with its colonial-era bungalows, Arabian Sea strand, and food stalls peddling the day’s fresh catch—draws both locals and tourists. Architecture buffs will love historic sites like Thakur House, Bastion Bungalow, and David Hall, many of which can be spotted from a stroll along breezy Church Road.

First opened in 1939, this beloved local favorite is now being operated by the third generation of the founding family, who’ve also expanded the brand with an outpost Kochi and a couple in Dubai. The original Calicut location began with focus on the variety of Malabar coastal cuisines, including Moplah (the dishes of the Muslims of northern Kerala) and Thyyas, by the Ezhavas community in the southern part of the state. The menu now includes both vegetarian and non-veg dishes from all over India, including curries and breads made in the tandoor, but there are also a number of unique regional specialties. Check out the baby squid pan-seared Malabari-style, traditional moiley curry, and a selection of additive breads, including crispy, lentil-based appam and a perfectly flaky, buttery paratha.

Surrounded by 40 pristine sand- and grass-topped acres, endless water views, and the sound of crashing waves, Bekal Fort—the largest fort in Kerala—feels like it rose up from the sea. In fact, it was built some three centuries ago as a defense post, lingering evidence of which includes the old ammunition storage areas and the cannon windows lining the outer walls. Today, visitors can wander around the complex, climbing up the observation tower, strolling around parts of the original walls, venturing out to the waterside walkways, and picnicking on the main lawns. (Along with the history and scenic beauty, the filming of some hit movies here has made the fort even more popular with domestic tourists.) After exploring the site, head down to the beach for some sea air and views of the fort from a different vantage point.

On this week’s episode of Unpacked, author and journalist Paige McClanahan shares what it takes to be a tourist who makes a positive impact on the places—and people— you visit.

In this week’s episode of Unpacked by AFAR, we journey to Kerala, India, to explore what tourism looks like when it truly benefits a local community—and travelers.

In the first episode of Unpacked by AFAR, a traveler explores how we can be better to the places we visit (and why we should save the concept of revenge for the movies).