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Inspired by the spices and scents he experienced on a trip to the Middle East back in the early ‘80s, Florentine Lorenzo Villoresi began studying the art of making perfume, eventually turning his family’s 15th-century palazzo into his atelier and shop. Stop by the elegant space—richly outfitted with Carrara marble, Florentine leather, and Volterra alabaster—to sniff your way around the world, sampling perfumes that feature an array of unusual and precious (and often pricey) extracts and essential oils. In addition to a ready-to-wear collection of perfumes, home scents, candles, potpourri, and related accessories, Villoresi also creates one-of-a-kind bespoke fragrances for hotels, fashion houses, and individual clients. It can be an expensive souvenir, but the experience of helping to create your personal scent is one you’ll never forget.

The area of gently rolling hills just to the northeast of Lucca is famous not only for its impressive villas, but also for olive oil and wine. A perfect gastronomic stop-off between visits to the magnificent Villa Mansi and Villa Torrigiani, the 30-hectare farm estate Colle di Bordocheo produces both, and offers tastings and tours for visitors. Estate wines such as the complex, spicy Picchio Rosso (a blend of sangiovese, merlot, and cabernet grapes) and the white Bianco dell’Oca (chardonnay, vermentino, sauvignon) marry well with the house extra virgin and platters of local cheeses and foccaccie. Book ahead and you can add lasagne and cold cuts to the basic €15 per head package, making a fine, rustic lunch. There are also apartments for rent on the estate, which lies in a strategic position for visits to the coast, the lush, mountainous Garfagnana region, Florence, and, of course, Lucca.

Italy never had Prohibition (can you imagine the country going wine-free?), but this intimate bar, opened in 2017, brings a touch of that era’s speakeasy style to central Florence. Owner and veteran bartender Cristian Guitti places equal importance on taste and aesthetics, creating concoctions that both excite the palate—with a hint of smoke here, and some barrel aging there—and also do your Instagram proud. The menu is heavily inspired by ‘20s-era cocktails, with nods to both America and Italy, so you’ll find drinks like Old Sport (based on Wild Turkey 81 Bourbon), Coney Island (rum with popcorn, chili, dark chocolate, and more), and Aglio Olio & Peperoncino (tequila blanco with olive oil and the essential oils of orange and chili). Guitti considers this a “cocktail experience,” which means the multi-step drinks may take a while to be prepared, but you’ll have fun soaking up the retro atmosphere while waiting for them to arrive.

Founded by the Sbigoli family, this Florentine workshop has been glazing and painting terra-cotta pottery since 1857. Now run by the artistic Chini family, the sense of history remains. Every piece in the showroom is handmade and unique. The simple patterns are based on medieval and Renaissance colors and designs, ranging from muted green-and-ivory geometrics to bright yellow flowers. There are full dinner settings, lamps, serving platters, coffee sets, and tiny bowls perfect for holding your rings beside the kitchen sink.

Housed in a former 1929 Nabisco box printing factory, the museum, which opened in 2003, is a must see for contemporary art buffs. Encompassing over 240,000 square feet, it showcases the Dia Art Foundation’s collection of Minimalist, Conceptual, and Post-Minimalist large-scale works from the 1960’s to the present. As you navigate through the exhibits, you’ll notice most of them are illuminated by natural light, courtesy of the building’s original skylights. Highlights include Andy Warhol’s shadow paintings; Louise Bourgeois’ imposing “Spiderwoman” sculpture; Richard Serra’s “Torqued Eclipse,” a series of vast circular metal sculptures; and Dan Flavin’s florescent light works.

Florence’s wonderful Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Cathedral Works Museum) is open to the public with double its original floor space and a new contemporary look. The unique collection of works by masters such as Donatello, Michelangelo, Luca della Robbia, and Lorenzo Ghiberti includes statuary from the Duomo, bell tower, and Baptistery as well as models and other exhibits relating to the building of one of the world’s largest cathedrals. Showstoppers include the bronze panels from the Baptistery’s doors, gleaming from their recent cleanup; Donatello’s emotive Mary Magdalene; the two exquisite cantorie (choir lofts) by Donatello and della Robbia; and a vast scale replica of the Duomo’s original facade, ripped down in 1587.

For a small, cozy space, Osteria delle Belle Donne serves a very large bistecca fiorentina. This tiny restaurant, with stone walls and warm wood accents, is tucked on a narrow street between the Duomo and the train station. Beyond giant cuts of steak, other tasty highlights of Florentine cuisine are served here: fettuccine with wild-boar ragù, white beans, and seafood dishes. In the cooler months, traditional ribollita (a tomato-based vegetable stew thickened with bread) and budino marrone (chestnut pudding) appear on the menu. The wine list is Tuscan, too, so it’s easy to find pairings for the rustic meals.

Giovanni di Piero Antinori became a member of the Florentine Winemakers Guild in 1385—and his descendants have been in the business ever since. Today, the company is overseen by Marchese Piero Antinori—the 25th generation of the titled family—and his three daughters, all of whom were involved in the seven-year project to build this stunning winery and visitors’ center. With a contemporary design crafted with materials like wood, terra cotta, and weathered steel, and featuring views out onto vineyards lush with classic Chianti grapes, the center houses a museum and art gallery, winery and cellar, shop, and rooftop restaurant serving gourmet pairing menus. Four different types of tours are available, ranging from general overviews tailored to the first-time guest (and including tastings of three signature wines), to more in-depth cellar visits (with upgraded cru tastings) and tailor-made experience for connoisseurs.

Elevate the normally mundane experience of shopping for medicine-cabinet basics like soap and toothpaste with a visit to one of the oldest pharmacies in the world. In this 13th-century chapel with early Renaissance frescoes, Gothic carved wooden cabinets, and crystal chandeliers, most items are still crafted according to formulas originally created by Dominican monks. A small museum displays equipment once used to make Santa Maria Novella products, as well as a collection of beautifully painted ceramic jars that held the herbs and powders. Linger a little longer in this fragrant world by ordering a pot of herbal tea or a small glass of one of the historic liqueurs in the tearoom.

This might be the most photographed store in Florence—the charming but cluttered scene includes strings of dried garlic and chilies, baskets of fresh fruit, colorful ceramics, wooden serving utensils, wild-boar salami, Tuscan olive oil, and handmade copper pots—with displays inside the shop and spilling out onto the sidewalk. This historic establishment, on the ground floor of the old tower of Borgo Santi Apostoli, is so friendly that the owner will pour you wine and offer a few bites of pecorino cheese while you decide how much room is left in your suitcase.

While walking around Florence, have you noticed something different about some of the street signs? Clet Abraham is a French artist who stealthily alters traffic signs with graphic stickers that transform a DEAD END sign into a crucifix or a ONE WAY arrow into Pinocchio’s nose. In the artist’s jumbled studio in San Niccolò, you can learn a bit about his process and purchase a sign of your own. If the original works are too pricey, there are also vinyl stickers and T-shirts bearing his whimsical designs.

If you’re looking for a classic martini or Aperol spritz, move along—this bar is all about taking the cocktail to unexpected places. In a tiny, spartan space (think red brick walls and lightly adorned wooden tables), noted booze alchemists Neri Fantechi and Julian Biondi, along with their team of Florence award-winning mixologists, whip up drinks with unique flavor profiles and combinations, like carrot jam with bourbon and egg whites. (The drinks also have names that will make you smile.) The menu is divided into three parts—Soul Warmers, A Fistful of Dollars, and Fabulous Spirits—and also includes a nice selection of mezcals and rye vodkas (Biondi serves as a brand ambassador for Russia’s Poulgar vodka.) The duo also hosts mixology classes and other drink-focused events for fellow enthusiasts and novices alike.

Opened in 2013 in a building that previously housed the University of Rome’s architecture department, JK Place is one of the newer additions to Rome’s growing number of high-end luxury boutique hotels. It is located near the intersection of Via Del Corso and Via dei Condotti, Rome’s most chaotic shopping nexus, but it is just far enough away from the action to maintain an air of seclusion, a rarity for the zone.

Behind the hotel’s unassuming doorway, classrooms and offices have been transformed into an effortlessly cool retreat. Like its siblings in Florence and Capri, the JK Place Rome is eclectically decorated and packed with artwork. Rooms feature canopied beds, sculptures, and sleek bathrooms decked out in Italian marble. The JK Café Bistro and bar attract well-heeled locals, giving the hotel a more down-to-earth vibe than its boutique neighbors, without sacrificing its unquestionable elegance.

Located behind the church of San Lorenzo, this is where many members of the ruling Medici family are buried. The octagonal building with an opulent marble interior dates from 1519. The Cappella dei Principi houses sarcophagi belonging to the Medici grand dukes, including Cosimo I. Lorenzo the Magnificent is buried in the adjoining Sagrestia Nuova, which contains Michelangelo’s famous Night and Day and Dawn and Dusk sculptures.

Gain rare access to the region’s time-honored traditions and meet local families during this exclusive journey.