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Discover the medieval charm of Sweden’s oldest town, just a short bus ride from Helsingborg. Don’t miss the remarkable astronomical clock, crypt, bronze pillars and sculpted facade of the striking Lund Cathedral, where daily services have been held for almost 900 years. Stroll the streets of Kulturen, an open-air museum that showcases the buildings and gardens of the Middle Ages. While steeped in history, Lund retains a youthful atmosphere thanks to its thriving university, the largest in Sweden.

Checking out the famously preserved mummies at the world’s oldest public museum is on many London wish lists, but there’s much more to the British Museum than ancient Egypt. Other must-sees include the Elgin Marbles and the African masks, both part of an enormous collection that spans ancient Iran to modern Sweden. The Great Court, which was cleverly revamped with a geometric glass roof by Foster + Partners in 2000, is a spacious gathering area with a shop and a café—and a sight worth seeing in itself.

Frederiksholms Canal is a small canal that is connected to Copenhagen Harbor and which surrounds and creates the small island of Slotsholmen. Slotsholmen is significant because it serves as home to Christiansborg Palace, the seat of the Danish Parliament, as well as museums, and the Royal Danish Library. More than just a glorified moat, the canal has a number of historical boats moored along its banks and serves as a lovely spot to enjoy the Danish weather. For a quirky surprise look into the canal’s depths just off of Højbro bridge for an other-worldly piece of submerged art.

When I first stepped into the blue folds of the ICEHOTEL in Jukkasjärvi I thought this must be what Superman’s Fortress of Solitude looks like. It’s that blue found in the water of higher latitudes, a blue that looks photoshopped although no photograph seems to be able to reproduce it with fidelity. Most of the time you and the other hotel guests are dressed in the hotel-issued technical gear: snow suits, balaclavas, moon-boots, mittens, caps. But when you sleep in the cold hotel you strip down to your long underwear, lock your things in a locker, carry a sleeping bag and sleeping sheet to your room, and try to get as comfortable as possible on the reindeer skins. One tip to remaining comfortable is to go easy at the hotel’s ICEBAR. The drinks, inspired by and named after the rooms in the cold hotel, come in hollowed cubes of ice and go down a little too smoothly. The bathrooms, contrary to the supposition made by my friend on Facebook, are not made of ice but you do have to walk outside to reach them at night. We dressed and went to straight to breakfast when we woke. (It is busy in the locker and shower area in the morning.) I ate a protein-rich meal to restore the lost kilojoules and then sat for forty-five minutes in the sauna. When you check out you receive a diploma (write out the name of each guest if you want individual diplomas) perfect for you to share it with the very friends who thought you were nuts for wanting to sleep in the ice and snow and the cold.

If you’re visiting Copenhagen, don’t miss a visit to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. It’s an easy 1/2 hour train ride from the city followed by about a 10 minute walk. Everything about our visit was excellent but a highlight is spending time in the sculpture garden which overlooks the Sound (and you can see the coast of Sweden in the distance). This is a great outing with kids. The children’s wing does a fantastic job of creating interesting ways for the kids to plug into modern art and the museum. On our visit there was a sculpture garden detective kit where kids had to seek out certain sculptures and examine different aspects and make some discoveries. Our kids loved it and it kept them engaged -- and it allowed me to leave them with my husband while I viewed the galleries in peace. There is also a great winding slide near the children’s wing that they spent a lot of time on. At the end of the day we got a bite to eat and and a glass of wine (for the adults) on the terrace overlooking the Calder sculpture garden and the Sound. Don’t miss the gift shop with lots of great modern design items to tempt you.

The Berns knows how to party. A Gilded Age palace of luxury and hospitality in the center of Stockholm, the opulent building began life in 1863 as a restaurant, before transforming into a hot nightlife spot. When it was reinvented as a decadent boutique hotel filled with understatedly luxurious modern decor (there’s that signature Scandinavian style), the Berns combined those pasts, opening not only one of the city’s top restaurants—in a previous iteration, Asiatiska was Sweden’s first Chinese restaurant—but some of its coolest bars and dance clubs, one of its most sought-after concert venues, and some of its most exclusive electronic music clubs. Suffice it to say that, although the gilded, airy main bar and dining room is always lively, filled with attractive, designer-clad Swedes, the building practically buzzes come evening. Not that any of this scene disturbs the rooms upstairs, because the second most important part of a good night out is a good sleep, and the Berns doesn’t disappoint there, either.

Rising out of the surrounding lush, flat landscape are the pretty pastel-colored turrets of the 12th-century Kalmar Castle. In 1397, the Kalmar Union was signed here—a treaty that brought Sweden, Norway and Denmark together under a single monarchy. In 1592, the medieval castle was redesigned and converted to its current Renaissance style. Take a ghost tour through the halls and dungeons, and don’t miss the permanent historic exhibits.

It’s a sign of just how revered Carl Linnaeus is in Sweden that for many years many people had a picture of him, and his garden, in their pocket. That’s because the botanist, who is famed for creating the two-name system for classifying plants and animals, adorned the 100-krona banknote for many years. It’s easy to visit the garden where he did his research, as the town of Uppsala can be reached in less than 40 minutes by train. The garden was originally laid out in 1655, then redesigned by Linnaeus in 1745. You can also visit his former home, now the Linnaeus Museum. As for the banknotes: In 2017 Linnaeus was replaced by Greta Garbo.

Lake Vänern is the largest lake in Sweden and so wide from shore to shore that it is sometimes called an inland sea.The Kålland peninsula on its southwest shore is home to Spiken, a picturesque fishing village, andthe impressive Läckö Castle. The landscape seems untouched, and the many nature reserves offers opportunities to enjoy the surroundings on bike, by boat or on foot. You can go hiking, mountain biking or book a fishing tour on Lake Vänern. In autumn, löjrom (bleak, or whitefish, roe) is a seasonal delicacy harvested from the bleak fish during their spawning season. Many restaurants in Spiken feature this golden delight on their menus.

Ett Hem isn’t a hotel. After all, its name means “a home” in Swedish. And the kitchen is open to guests at all hours, to snack on its stash of homemade cakes and healthy treats, and to pour a glass or two of its world-class wines and fresh-squeezed juices. The hotel’s winding collection of airy, stylized rooms—decorated with an elegantly comfortable combination of modern and curated vintage that belongs on the pages of Architectural Digest—act like a designer friend’s living room and library, their comfortable chairs beckoning guests to relax with a glass of wine and a good book. An airy conservatory (similarly outfitted) spills out onto a secret garden, a hidden oasis in the lively city, and a gourmet, farm-to-communal-table dinner results in new friends and fascinating conversations. Each of the 12 rooms in the 1910 Arts and Crafts house feels like a private appartement, decorated in celebrity designer Ilse Crawford and owner Jeanette Mix’s signature style. So, no, Ett Hem isn’t a hotel, because it’s so much more.

Modern day Borås, east of Gothenburg, has successfully made the transformation into a creative hub. Since 2008, with the controversial investment in the 30 foot tall bronze statue of Pinocchio called Walking to Borås by Jim Dine, the town has become a hot spot for outdoor and street art. The annual No Limit festival is an outdoor art event with artists from around the world coming to participate in turning public spaces into outdoor exhibitions. Borås has also been the textile capital of Sweden since the mid-1800s, and is home to the the Textile Museum that preserves the history of the once flourishing factories with its unique collections, and the Textile Fashion Center, a former factory that houses creative businesses.

The isolated, car-free island of Käringön is a 40-minute ferry ride from Orust, and has less than 100 full-time residents who stay year round, even through the long winter. But it’s a different story in the summer. In the 19th century, the middle classes in Sweden became enamored with the benefits of fresh sea air and started flocking to the small islands along the coast. Today about a thousand visitors arrive daily by ferry or private boat to enjoy the island’s relaxed vibe. Come for a lunch of fresh-caught seafood at Petersons Krog or watch children on the pier trying to catch the little crabs crawling through the seaweed down below. In the cold weather, visitors can take a lobster fishing tour or sample fresh oysters at the Käringö oyster bar, which also has a hot tub that seats six.

The beautiful Koster Islands are Sweden’s most westerly populated islands with only around 300 year-round inhabitants and almost no car traffic. Sustainability and ecology are key values here and visitors flock to the islands’ sunny climate and natural attractions. The surrounding archipelago, with its seal colonies, skerries, and rocky isles, is a unique environmental treasure. The islands’ focus on sustainability and local traditions is especially evident at Koster Gardens on South Koster, operated by a collective of environmentalists dedicated to inspiring its visitors toward a more sustainable lifestyle. The prize-winning restaurant was built with materials such as straw and earth and is open year-round, serving lunch and fika (coffee break) from the best ingredients available from the garden and sea. Guided tours are arranged on foot, by bike, or kayak.

Architecture and physics nerds must stop by the Bella Sky Comwell Hotel in Copenhagen‘s Ørestad neighborhood. The largest hotel in Scandinavia, its dizzying towers lean at a dramatic 15 degrees in each direction (11 degrees more than the Leaning Tower of Pisa). The triangular blue and white patterned exterior, was designed to minimize solar heat gain and maximize energy efficiency. Even if you don’t book a room here, visit the Sky Bar on the 23rd floor for piano music, cocktails, and great views or walk across the bridge that connects the two towers (it feels like the bridge sways in the wind).

The name translates as “Back Pocket,” an apt description for this one-room restaurant tucked into the side of the Royal Opera House. The tiled room is decorated with opera memorabilia, and sometimes you’ll find yourself dining next to tuxedo-clad members of the orchestra between performances. Diners perch at the counter at little tables affixed to the walls or, during the summer, outside in the sun. The food is traditional Swedish cuisine—husmanskost, as it’s known—with particularly good seafood, and best enjoyed with a Swedish beer.