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Zurriola beach is slightly off the radar, or at least as much off the radar as one of a city’s three beaches can be. The only tourists that typically venture over are of the surfing persuasion, and sitting to watch the sunset on the wall that borders the beach. Surf lessons are available from the stores that line the promenade. It’s the locals’ spot for hanging out, and the one beach that you should spend your days on if you are slumming in San Sebastián.

What could an Alaska local ever discover on a voyage through the Inside Passage? Just the essence of the place he thought he knew.

Bar San Marcial is easy to miss. Tucked into a small hallway on Calle San Martzial, you have to duck in and head down a couple of steps to get to the classic wooden bar. Once there, don’t miss their excellent selection of fried things. The best, their house trademark, is the Gavilla. It’s a chunk of tenderloin, a slice of ham, and a slice of cheese surrounded by bechamel and fried golden brown.

171 years crafting hats is a long time. The family behind Casa Ponsol are maestros of adorning heads, although they have since branched out into men’s fashion as well. The Basque beret is ubiquitous, and if you find yourself pining for one this is the spot to stop.

Hakei began as a single boutique, but in the last five years has expanded rapidly, even crossing Spanish borders. The secret to its success? Gorgeously simple leather bags, supremely gorgeous shoes that tend toward the suede-leather persuasion, and luxe, drapey, oh-so-soft clothing for women. The price is right, too.

Victoria Eugenia is a double-edged sword. A beautiful, red-velvet-swathed theater occupies the aboveground section of this building. Offerings feature biggish names in music, Broadway adaptations, and classical performances. Meanwhile, after midnight, it’s the basement that houses the action. The underground level is a dance club that’s at its peak from 2am on. Expect house music and house remixes of Top 40, as well as a lively, twenty- and thirty-something crowd.

It was raining when we arrived in Donostia-San Sebastian, but the skies cleared on our second day, and we rode the funicular railway up Mount Igueldo to take in the view back on the city, La Concha Bay, and the empty beach. The “low” travel season had just begun, and the strange little children’s amusement park on the mountaintop had shuttered up for the fall and winter, adding just the right disorienting touch of weird desolation to the Basque country panorama.

Most visitors never cross the river from the Old Part, and the vast majority overlook what has to be one of the most beautiful hikes from here to California. At the edge of Gros, a trail heads up some stairs (at the end of Calle San Francisco) and continues for hours, all the way to the neighboring village of Pasaia. It’s a family-friendly trail in terms of difficulty, and the views are breathtaking. A must-hike.

I don’t want to use the word overrated. Many people rave about Coctelería Dickens, but I stopped going there after I paid five euros for a coffee. However, those who are loyal to the bar manage to see past the exorbitant prices to the man behind the bar. Joaquín Fernandez is at the helm, and he is a regular feature in the local press for his cocktail knowledge. He stands definitively in the old-school corner, which means he fits perfectly in this classic San Sebastián bar.

This dockside restaurant has a charming historic patina, as it is part of an actual fishing club headquartered in an 18th-century military Cartagena fortress, San Sebastián del Pastelillo. Sit at outdoor tables with views of the city, the bay, and the club’s private marina and pier (some of your fellow patrons arrive by boat!), and dine on freshly caught seafood. On weekends, live music—jazz, bossa nova, and flamenco—animates the scene.

Flamenco is a traditional Spanish dance, steeped in history and tradition. Whirling dresses and stamping feet make this Andalusian tradition a must-see, while exploring Spain.

One of my favorite sit-down dining experiences in the city, Zelai Txiki has a couple things going for it. One is a gigantic terrace that overlooks the entire city. On a summer evening there are only a few places I would rather be. Call ahead to try one of Zelai Txiki’s specialties: whole suckling roasted pig or suckling lamb. These are roasted in a wood-burning oven and are an experience that shouldn’t be missed.

Bar Hidalgo 56 is probably one of my top three pintxo bars in the entire city. With a bar stacked full of equally delicious pintxos, a menu of hot pintxos that is incredibly varied and delicious, and an attention to product that you simply don’t find in other bars, Hidalgo 56 is worth a visit. Try the volcano of morcilla.

This bar in Gros is one, as the locals say, ‘de toda la vida’. A lifelong place to stop and enjoy one of their spectacular anchovy and tuna pintxos (I recommend the one that looks like a mountain of mayonnaise) or a pintxo moruno, a hanging kebab that is a house specialty. The pintxos are classic and delicious. Always a great ambience.

Donosti Librería is the bookstore that movies are made of. In the family for 40 years, the shop’s beautiful art nouveau façade hides a calming interior. Walls are stacked with books, handpicked by the owners, and the overall atmosphere is the perfect blend of peaceful and provocative.