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Getting to Know Seattle: the Arts, the Social Challenges, and the Rain

Australia’s Double Wild Appeal: Big City to Outback

AFAR sent writer Leslie Jamison to the Indian Ocean island nation with just 24 hours’ notice. Arriving with no preparation and no plan, she caught a ride to the war-torn north to find out what kind of traveler she truly is.

The Markets of Essaouira, Morocco

An independent traveler walks up the cruise ship gangplank to find herself part of a floating community.

We asked one Roman local how to experience the best of his city.

A glimpse at the future of this important South African metropolis, according to the creatives who are shaping it.

Exploring the world, one boat at a time.

A refugee-turned-doctor takes the trip of a lifetime, tracking gorillas through the wilds of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.

I hear about Ginger Elizabeth all the time—a friend’s favorite new flavor of macaron or the chocolate gift box received as a birthday gift. When I finally made it here, I was impressed by the beautiful interior, friendly staff, large selection of macarons, and most of all, the beautiful chocolates. Ginger Elizabeth trained as a chocolatier and pastry chef at the Culinary Institute of America and takes pride in using all-natural, high-quality ingredients. She also promotes responsibility through carefully choosing organic and fair-trade products and local packaging. Ginger Elizabeth surprised me with flavors like grapefruit and fennel chocolate caramels and blackberry coffee macarons. Fun seasonal delights include chocolate skulls, Day of the Dead chocolates, and pumpkin pie macarons. It’s a great place to indulge yourself or buy gifts from the heart of Sacramento.

Ferries between St. Vincent and Bequia run frequently, all day and evening. The one-way trip takes about an hour, and the fare is about $10 each way or $17 round-trip. En route, passengers have breathtaking views in all directions, including volcanic St. Vincent and Kingstown Harbour, Young Island, Mustique and Canouan in the distance, and Bequia’s lovely Port Elizabeth. Once on Bequia, take an island tour, have lunch, go for a swim, or explore Port Elizabeth before heading back to St. Vincent at sunset. If you’re traveling in the other direction, spend the day on St. Vincent walking around historic Kingstown, touring the Botanical Gardens, or hiking the Vermont Nature Trail.

Boat-building as an industry has existed on Bequia as far back as the 1800s. At one point, the island was even known as the “boat-building capital of the West Indies,” having produced the largest wooden vessel in the region. While construction has slowed over time, it still occurs—albeit on a much smaller scale—at places like Sargeant Brothers Model Boat Shop, just up the road from the ferry landing in Port Elizabeth, where Benson Phillips and other craftsmen make and sell their models. Handcrafted using hand planes, chisels, and carving knives, their boats are incredibly detailed and realistic. Choose from whale boats, sailboats, power boats, and wooden schooners, or commission Phillips to build a custom model of your own yacht. The simplest models take about a week to make, but there are always a few boats available for immediate sale, ranging in price from around $250 all the way up to $7,000.

While some castle hotels can feel a bit dusty—with all those heavy curtains and canopy beds—the Lough Eske Castle Hotel feels more airy and contemporary than you’d expect from a 150-year-old castle. Located near Donegal Town in the northern part of Ireland, it’s the only five-star hotel in Donegal County. And while the Elizabethan manor house was once at the center of a farm, today it’s fronted by a formal rose garden and surrounded by 43 acres of forest on the banks of Lough Eske, a 900-acre lake.

The hotel has a glass greenhouse-style spa, an indoor pool with views of the grounds, and a restaurant, Cedars Grill, which serves fresh-from-the-sea oysters and filets of Irish beef. But best of all is the lovely, generous staff: Concierges in particular quickly arrive at a first-name basis with guests as they arrange outings and grant even somewhat-annoying requests. And since all guests do here is spa, stroll, and feast, the only real challenge is deciphering the staff’s thick Northern Irish accents.

A 100-foot schooner based in Bequia, The Friendship Rose takes passengers on daylong cruises to Tobago Cays for snorkeling and swimming with sea turtles, or Mustique for beaching, bar hopping, and relaxing. Excursions include breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, and drinks throughout the day, including beer, fruit punch, and soft drinks. Whether you opt for the marine park or the private island, the entire family is sure to enjoy the experience.

Owned by interior designer Elizabeth John, Covet offers a well-curated mix of housewares, clothing, and accessories. Check out the funky silver jewelry by local metalsmith Lisa Fletcher and the Ilse Jacobsen rubber boots (pictured), made in Denmark but perfect for waterlogged Tofino. 368 Main St., (250) 725-2860. This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue.