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Don’t let the umlaut throw you off. Vestibül restaurant occupies an original vestibule in the Burgtheater, known for having one of Vienna’s most gorgeous interiors. And the space is not just any vestibule, but includes both the porte cochere for the Hapsburg coaches that would arrive at this famous imperial theater and the marble-lined hallway leading to the guests’ private loges. Located across from City Hall on the Ringstrasse, Vestibül is under the guidance of one of Austria’s most celebrated chefs, Christian Domschitz. His menu is not flashy, but rather rests on superb takes on traditional dishes, such as his signature Hummerkrautfleisch—creamy cabbage with lobster.

‘Purveyors of artisan sausage’ is an excellent description of this gourmet dog and beer spot in Austin‘s Warehouse District (4th and Colorado). The loft ceilings, large vintage murals, friendly neighborhood bar and funky table seating all create a cool, hipster spot to chow down. They’re now serving coffee and breakfast and it’s a great place to hit on a Friday or Saturday night, when they often have live music to kick off the weekend. Don’t forget the waffle fries and the root beer float, to make your trip to Franks complete.

Based on an idea by Simon Wiesenthal and erected in 2000, British artist Rachel Whiteread’s Nameless Library in the Judenplatz sits in one of the most tranquil squares in Vienna’s Inner City. The simple, stark, 12-foot-high concrete block is dedicated as a Holocaust memorial. Since the Middle Ages, Viennese Jewish life centered around the Judenplatz, and excavations during the memorial construction revealed a synagogue that had been destroyed in the pogroms of 1421. The square’s Misrachi-Haus, with its baroque facade dating from 1694, is now a branch of the Jewish Museum Vienna (its main location is in the Palais Eskeles). Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach’s stately Bohemian Court Chancellery building and a monument to the Enlightenment author Gotthold Ephraim Lessing also face the square.

With glass walls that can soar as high as 50 feet, Palmenhaus is dramatic, but it’s also a quiet and calm place smack in the heart of Hapsburg-era Vienna. As the name suggests, the Palmenhaus is a greenhouse of the variety that nations of the 19th century were so good at creating to show off palms and other exotic plants plucked from the colonies. And thanks to a $17 million renovation in the 1990s, yes, Palmenhaus still has palm trees and tropical flora, as well as a lepidopterarium, or butterfly house. As Vienna’s palm house looks over the lush Burggarten park, its broad terrace makes for the ultimate spot to sit under sunny skies and sip a riesling or quaff a beer. On summer Fridays, DJs and live musicians perform.

Out of the tragedy of the plague arose the Karlskirche, perhaps the most magnificent of Vienna’s baroque churches. One of the final designs by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach, the genius behind the Schönbrunn Palace, Karlskirche commemorates the outbreak of 1713. The Karl who gave the church its name was the Counter-Reformation’s Saint Charles Borromeo, who cared for plague victims in 16th-century Milan. The church dome, rising above two columns inspired by Trajan’s Column, is illuminated at night and is a prominent Vienna landmark which be seen from many points in the city. A vibrant fresco in the cupola by Johann Michael Rottmayr glorifies Saint Charles. On Karlsplatz, in front of the church, two of the legendary architect Otto Wagner’s finest art nouveau metro stations remain; one of them now houses a café.

Not only a star in Vienna, but on the world culinary scene, Steirereck is also breaking new ground architecturally. A few years ago, the restaurant, situated in a landmark art nouveau building amid the leafy Stadtpark, unveiled a futuristic redo. Blond wood and a white contoured ceiling now accent the new blocklike spaces which extend outward and whose reflective facade highlights the surrounding parkland. Showcasing chiefly recipes from the Styria province, fixed menus include novelties like char with beeswax, yellow carrot, pollen, and sour cream, while the cheese carts offer a selection of the more than 100 varieties available here. During the meal, a detailed menu card delivered between courses provides information about the dishes you are enjoying. The building’s lower-level Meierei im Stadtpark restaurant is a more casual dining option.

It’s the wine. It’s not just the small houses with baroque detailing, or the cobblestoned streets with old trams that wind their way up the Vienna Woods foothills, that make Grinzing the most popular of all of the former villages that have been absorbed into present-day Vienna. The city has by some counts more urban vineyards than anywhere else in the world, and Grinzing’s famous Heurige (wine taverns) draw big crowds. The proprietors of Zum Martin Sepp, across from the parish church, welcome visitors to their cozy courtyard and tavern rooms. Guests enjoy Austrian specialties such as the Kaiserschmarrn pancake dessert and drink house grüner veltliner and other wines, while swaying to musicians wielding the signature folk accordion and playing old Viennese drinking songs.

As if floor-to-ceiling Inner City views from an 18th-floor space weren’t enough, the 21,500-square-foot illuminated ceiling by Swiss artist Pipilotti Rist will wow you at Das Loft restaurant. With strict historic preservation building codes long in place that dictated nothing be built higher than the city’s iconic Stephansdom cathedral tower, Vienna was rather late to the game of splashy starchitect buildings. In 2010, however, Jean Nouvel’s Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom opened across the Danube Canal, an area that had been plagued by banal postwar stucco buildings. Now, guests at the hotel’s Das Loft penthouse and panoramic restaurant can not only enjoy beautiful urban vistas, but a popping cocktail scene and modern takes on Austrian dishes.

The name Fleischmarkt goes back to the medieval butchers who worked along this Inner City street. The surrounding blocks are still home to long-standing merchants like Mühlbauer Hut, a century-old hatmaker. Strolling the area also takes you to Vienna’s oldest church, the tiny Romanesque Ruprechtskirche. Located in a Biedermeier-era house, the nearby Stadttempel synagogue survived Kristallnacht. The Orendi-Hof at Fleischmarkt 1 is a stunning art nouveau building, followed a few doors down by Max Kropf’s richly detailed 1899 neoclassical building and then by a Byzantine-style Greek Orthodox church, all in one short block. In recent decades, the Fleischmarkt bar area gained the nickname Bermudadreieck—the Bermuda Triangle—in reference to tipsy revelers getting lost in its twisting alleys.

It’s so tiny that your living room seems spacious in comparison. On a side street off the lustrous Kärntner Strasse, the Loos American Bar was hypermodern back when it opened in 1908 as the Kärntner Bar with a design aesthetic that contrasted with what was standard then during the last days of imperial Vienna. Architect of Prague’s famous 1928 Villa Müller, Adolf Loos used mirrors to expand the mahogany, brass, and onyx interior. Outside, an American flag mosaic pops out from above the entrance and marble pillars. After years of decline, the bar was resurrected by new owners in the 1990s to once again become a landmarked shrine to modernism. The martinis and Manhattans served here are vintage American as well.

Berggasse 19 is the address of a modest house on a modest street, but it was there that much of the modern world and culture were changed forever. For nearly 50 years, the Freud house—now, officially, the Sigmund Freud Museum—was the home and office of the legendary psychoanalyst, until 1938 when he finally departed for London as Nazi forces were descending on Vienna. The rooms are filled with old books, antiques, personal artifacts, and correspondence, though not the famous couch (which is now at the Freud museum in London). In 2019, the house will undergo a yearlong €4 million renovation to its facade and exhibition spaces. If you walk the Ringstrasse over to the Burgtheater area, you can see the University of Vienna that was once the General Hospital where Herr Professor worked for many years.

Vienna’s architecturally rich Inner City can lead to a visual overdose on baroque wonders. Those who venture to districts beyond its historic heart will find a great little discovery in the Hermesvilla in the Lainzer Tiergarten, a nine-square-mile wooded landscape and former imperial hunting grounds with resident boar and deer. The smaller of Franz Joseph’s retreats, the Hermesvilla was a gift to his beloved, quirky wife Sisi, who called it her “palace of dreams.” It is said that Franz Joseph built it to keep her from running all around Europe as she was wont to do. The interior still holds many original furnishings, and the small statue of Hermes in front of the villa inspired its name. (Note that the villa is closed in the winter, roughly from early November to late March/early April.)

As you take in its dome made of gold-filigree laurel leaves, the utter modernity of the Secession Building stuns you. Joseph Maria Olbrich’s glorious exhibition hall just off the Ringstrasse is more than a century old, and is one of the most beautiful legacies of the great intellectual and artistic period known as fin de siècle Vienna—when the city’s coffeehouses were frequented by the likes of Freud and Klimt and the architect of the day, Otto Wagner. Not many cities can claim their own art movements, but the Vienna Secession was a reaction to the staid art of the late Hapsburg empire. “To every age its art, to every art its freedom” proclaims the inscription (in German) on the facade of the building which also has a 112-foot-wide, 1902 Beethoven Frieze by Gustav Klimt.

Perhaps “boiled beef in broth” doesn’t sound quite as alluring as its German name of Tafelspitz. Yet Tafelspitz was the preferred meal of Emperor Franz Joseph, and it remains a favorite Viennese dish. There’s one establishment, Plachutta, that has cornered the market on fine Tafelspitz; the eponymous gastronome Mario Plachutta has raised his preparation of the modest rump cut served with roasted potatoes, minced apples, and horseradish to a gourmet level. The main restaurant sits on the popular Wollzeile shopping street just a block from the Ringstrasse, but the chef has also built a mini empire of jade-toned Plachutta restaurants—including one in a lovely Biedermeier cottage and another near the Schönbrunn Palace in Hietzing.

How’s your billiard game? With three antique tables, Café Sperl is old-world Vienna at its best; the year 1880 appears in their logo, after all. Sperl’s sumptuous art nouveau interior—wood paneling, hanging lamps, plaster figures on the ceiling—is said to be the city’s only coffeehouse space that has never been modernized. Since it’s in the southwest Mariahilf district, off the path usually beaten by travelers, you’re not likely to encounter many tourists here. Yet, given that its location, on the Gumpendorfer Strasse and by the famous Naschmarkt, is newly trendy, you should hurry there before it gets discovered. On Sunday afternoons, it adds live piano music; in warm weather, there’s sidewalk seating where you can enjoy one of the dozens of different coffee drinks.