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We live in the age of artisanal everything, from chocolate and coffee, to, you guessed it, water. At Mexico City‘s Casa del Agua, staff produce and bottle “local water” on-site. The bottles—designed artisanally, of course—are charming souvenirs that you can use over and over again (with your own, less expensive water) once you’re home. Be sure to go to the second level of the shop to see the filtration process, and to the terrace level to see where the water is captured.

With the Spanish conquest of the Aztec empire, Iberian overlords set about imposing their customs on the subdued populace, eliminating traces of pre-Hispanic religions they deemed heretical by demolishing major temples and building churches and other structures atop their ruins. Centuries later, in 1978, workers laying electrical lines happened upon the remains of the Templo Mayor, the Aztecs’ most important ceremonial center (and, yes, the location of their notorious human sacrifices). Subsequent excavations have revealed superimposed pyramid foundations and priceless artworks, many now displayed at the on-site museum. Thrillingly, treasures keep turning up—including the spring 2017 discovery of a stone box containing some of the finest Aztec gold ever found, just off the Templo Mayor’s steps.

If the city has you overwhelmed, whether by its chaos or its abundance of choices, and you want to take refuge in the familiarity of a hotel bar, you can’t do much better than St. Regis’s King Cole Bar. Sit inside at the bar or on one of its loungers and enjoy live music with your drink, or—better yet—head out to the terrace, where you can watch traffic zip by on the city’s main avenue, Paseo de la Reforma. You’ll also be looking out upon the Diana the Huntress fountain, a snapshot-worthy landmark in this city that has no shortage of them. In fact, you can also see the Angel of Independence statue and Chapultepec Castle from here. As for drinks, the must-try is the Sangrita Maria, a blend of mezcal, sangrita, and pasilla chile puree. Every St. Regis bar creates a signature cocktail, and this one is definitely representative of Mexico City. If you’re a smoker, ask to see the bar’s cigar selection.

Small and intimate, Hotel Casa Oaxaca feels quintessentially Oaxacan: It’s colonial in style, with whitewashed walls contrasting with vivid pops of carnelian red and fuchsia. It’s surrounded by local vegetation. And it’s filled with Oaxacan handicrafts and art. Common areas invite visitors to settle in and relax, like the on-site library, pool, and terrace with beautifully-made cotton hammocks. The hotel’s seven rooms are arranged around the central patio. Visitors consistently say the service is exceptional, with attention to detail and a “go the extra mile” attitude mentioned frequently as one of the main reasons to return. Another is the hotel’s central location, as it offers an easy walk to many of Oaxaca’s top sights.

Don’t be confused by the name: This isn’t street food so much as dockside warehouse food. Walk over Inderhavnsbroen, one of the city’s newer bridges (opened in 2016), and you’ll cross from the heart of Copenhagen to a former industrial area that is now a foodie paradise. It is to the city what Borough Market is to London—a hugely popular attraction where people flock to eat great food off paper plates. Chinese, Korean, Italian, Moroccan . . . It’s all here and so inviting that it’s hard to know where to start. The only note of caution: Copenhagen Street Food is so popular that the weekend crowds can be intimidating.

Oaxaca’s Casa de la Ciudad is housed in a big yellow building just a couple of blocks from the Zocalo. On the ground level you’ll find the Andres Henestrosa memorial library which contains over 50,000 volumes, and some rooms that are used for temporary exhibits. Make your way across the central patio and up the steps to the second floor, where you’ll find, among other things, a room that has two very large aerial photos (about 12 square feet) of Oaxaca city on the floor. One of the photos was taken in 1990, and the other in 2006. They call this the “foto-piso” (photo-floor). It’s fun to walk over it and pick out landmarks and see how Oaxaca has changed over time. The Casa de la Ciudad often has exhibits dealing with urbanization and architecture, and it also hosts workshops, concerts and other events. It is open daily from 9 am to 8 pm, and admission is free.

Mexico City’s mammoth cathedral was built across three centuries (1573–1813)—starting soon after Cortés and his allies vanquished the Aztec Empire—using stones taken from a destroyed indigenous temple. Today’s sanctuary serves up contrasts between unadorned neoclassical walls alongside exuberant gilt chapels and altarpieces as well as a massive pipe organ, with some baroque elements, that’s still dusted off and played from time to time. Be sure not to miss the high altar, and consider shelling out for a visit to the sacristy, with its glistening dome, grand canvases, and massive cabinets, fit to hold an archbishop’s entire stock of holy utensils. And for a queasy view of how much the ground beneath the city is sinking, note how chandeliers appear to list in comparison to the chapel’s vertical lines.

This tiny island is north of Isla Mujeres and Cancun and is only 26 miles long and offers visitors in search of a “Robinson Crusoe” experience the perfect escape. Long, sweeping beaches beckon with water sports, snorkeling, sport fishing, and total R&R. A shallow lagoon gives sanctuary to thousands of flamingos, pelicans and other exotic birds and creatures, allowing visitors the perfect spot in which to commune with nature. Several good restaurants and hotels are available and tours to area attractions can be arranged by ferry and small plane. Getting around the island is via bicycle or golf cart.

The system of canals and chinampas (cultivated artificial islands fashioned from the area’s swampy soils) that has survived in the far-south neighborhood known as Xochilmilco once stretched all the way to the Centro. To this day, the community is known for its plant nurseries and vegetable gardens. These ancient landscapes now contribute to what has become one of the most singular pleasure gardens in the world, where visitors hire “gondoliers” to propel boats known as trajineras as they sail these channels in the company of floating mariachis and food vendors, partying teens, and extended families out for a picnic lunch. Since a tour is usually a four-hour-plus investment (it flies by), ask your oarsman to take you to Xochimilco’s more-rural precincts, where you’ll enjoy marvelous quiet, far from the madding crowd, in the company of cranes, curs, and picturesque cornfields.

Sunset Monalisa is one of the most romantic restaurants in the world. Its views of Cabo San Lucas Bay and the arch at Land’s End are spectacular any time of day but particularly at sunset, when the sky turns vibrant shades of red, yellow, and purple. Love is definitely in the air here: Servers report at least one engagement per week, and it’s a favorite wedding venue. The multitiered cliffside restaurant features a Taittinger Terrace Oyster and Champagne Bar, as well as an exceptional Mediterranean menu from chef Paolo della Corte, who trained in Michelin-starred kitchens. Navigate the à la carte options independently or opt for the prix fixe or tasting menus.

You can’t come to Mexico without eating at least one, or 20, tacos. The Mexican staple has an addictive quality, especially with its many preparations at the legendary Tacos Gardenias in downtown Cabo San Lucas. This no-nonsense, frills-free taqueria has been around for more than three decades, perfecting family recipes that go beyond what you might expect. This being Baja, of course there are fish and shrimp varieties. Moving along, you’ll find shredded chicken, beef, carnitas (braised pork), cactus, chicharrón (fried pork rinds), and cochinita pibil (slow-roasted pork) iterations. There’s no wrong time to eat a taco, of course, so Gardenias opens early, at 8 a.m., with all the toppings on hand to get you eating.

The quintessential Florida sunset moment plays out night after night at this waterfront pub and restaurant in Captiva. Open since the 1970s, the British-style spot draws tourists and locals alike with sweeping views of the Gulf of Mexico and more than 16 different beers. To eat, there are seafood classics like clam chowder, fried calamari, and oysters Rockefeller. Go right before sunset and gather with everyone on the sand to catch the elusive green flash before settling in for your meal.

This cenote’s name, which means “Two Eyes” in Spanish, refers to its two separate pools that lead into a large cavern of incredibly clear water. At more than 40 miles long, Dos Ojos is the largest underwater cave system in the state and among the most popular and adventurous dive spots on the entire Riviera Maya. Snorkelers of all ages are welcome to take in the amazing scenery and gaze at divers as they explore far below. The cenote lies just a few minutes north of Tulum, a little over a mile off the main highway.

Around 10,000 animal bones and skulls, cast from aluminum, line the whitewashed walls of Hueso, a restaurant named after the Spanish word for “bone.” Chef Alfonso Cadena sourced the bones, which include a whale spine and a puma skull, over the course of a nine-month trip all over Mexico, then turned to his brother, Ignacio Cadena of Cadena + Asociados Concept Design, to execute the macabre décor. Perhaps even more impressive than the restaurant’s interior, however, is its menu, which features produce, poultry, and seafood from Jalisco and beef from Cadena’s home state of Sonora. Can’t-miss dishes include the short rib with bone marrow, and the mussels with beef stock.

Mexico is home to two fiercely opposing football clubs: Chivas (the country’s most popular team) and Atlas (which has only won a single league title, in 1951). The fan rivalry, which divides Guadalajara along class and neighborhood lines, persists today—and, if you happen to be in town when the two teams face off, you’re all but guaranteed a lively match. Chivas plays in a shiny new stadium on the city’s outskirts, but games at Estadio Jalisco (Atlas’ home stadium, where Chivas used to play) offer a more fun, authentic experience.