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Locals agree that Marie-Galante is the “real” Guadeloupe. Daily ferries whisk visitors and residents back and forth to this island, 40 minutes south of Grande-Terre across occasionally choppy waters. But the charming, pastoral island is well worth it. On Marie-Galante, more farmers ride ox-drawn carts than buses, and the most uncrowded, pristine beaches line the turquoise waters here—like the secluded and brilliant white Plage Vieux Fort. The food is traditional Creole, served with pride in homes-turned-dining-rooms, while the rhum distilleries are considered the best in Guadeloupe.

The black-sand Plage de Malendure on Basse-Terre is a water sports hub, home to dive shops that head out to the Jaques Cousteau Reserve. It’s a great spot to park the family for a day of swimming, snorkeling, or kayaking over to the Pigeon Islands. It’s busy and social, but that doesn’t take away from its beautiful bluff and sea views.

Guadeloupe’s most famous dive spot lies off the coast of Basse-Terre, surrounding the Pigeon Islands, and is part of the Guadeloupe National Park’s protected marine assets. Named after Captain Cousteau, who pushed for the protection of this biodiverse marine site and filmed a documentary here, you can find the French explorer’s statue resting in these waters. Dive shops offering excursions to the Jacques Cousteau Marine Reserve are based along Plage de la Malendure in the coastal community of Bouillante. There are dive options whether you’re a beginner or advanced. Snorkeling is also ideal for newbies here, with shallow waters teeming with coral, turtles, and tropical fish.

After grabbing lunch on the ultra-local Plage de la Datcha on the south of Grande-Terre, hop on an afternoon boat shuttle from the beach to nearby Îlet du Gosier. You can spot the islet from shore—and if you’re fit, you can even kayak or swim over. With a wraparound white-sand beach, shallow waters for snorkeling, and the rustic Ti’ Robinson bar for rhum cocktails and Creole dishes, it’s the perfect day trip from somewhere like Pointe-a-Pitre.

Adjacent to the eponymous hotel, this shopping center near the cruise ship terminal in Pointe-a-Pitre has several boutiques stocking colorful island-style jewelry and accessories, and beauty products. It is named after the 19th-century French poet and Nobel laureate who was born and raised in Guadeloupe. You’ll also find local shops surrounding the center selling textiles, arts and crafts, and souvenir trinkets.

Often likened to Rio’s Sugar Loaf, and possibly named after it because of the resemblance, Pain de Sucre Beach is an idyllic stretch facing an emerald-and-blue cove along Les Saintes’ bay. It’s off the beaten track and away from the larger daytime crowds, which makes it even more special. You have to take a short, leafy hike off the main road, onto a series of rocky steps leading to the beach. Boats occasionally moor nearby because the snorkeling is great, as is the sunset.

The fine black sand at Plage Bananier, on Basse-Terre, contrasts nicely with the lush green trees lining the beach. It’s a popular surfing and bodyboarding spot, and locals and visitors of all ages come here to practice their moves. Others build sand castles, frolic in the waves, or hang out at the on-site restaurants enjoying a meal while overlooking the beach and its surfers.

Le Rivage, specializing in Creole cuisine, is a charming place to stop for lunch on the way back from hiking Guadeloupe National Park. This casual, family-friendly establishment has a wood-floored dining room with shutters opening onto views of Bananier Beach, welcoming in a constant breeze. The local drinks are made to order. Pick your rhum of choice from the display table and sip on a ti’ punch before savoring typical plates like cod fritters, fresh lobster stuffed with spices, and goat stew.

The bay of Les Saintes ranks among UNESCO’s list of most beautiful bays in the world—and it’s not hard to see why. The views, whether on approach from the sea or from atop one of its bluffs, make up a dreamy Caribbean postcard, with the bluest of waters punctuated by small sailboats and a few docks, and its shores lined by sugar-white beaches. Under its surface, coral reefs thrive, making it an excellent snorkeling and diving destination. Lazying on a catamaran drifting across the bay is also a worthwhile experience, whether you get into the water or not.

One of most beautiful beaches in Guadeloupe, Grande Anse is a wide, nearly mile-long stretch of blond sand located in Deshaies on Basse-Terre, with breathtaking views of bluffs and lined with towering palm trees. The blue waves are constant and make it a fun dip—though stick close to shore for added safety. The sheer size of the beach makes it one of the most impressive shorelines on the archipelago. At the entrance to the beach, vendors are set up in the parking area and sell bottled fruit rhum and snacks. Sunsets on Grande Anse attract many locals, but it never feels crowded here.

The path to Terre-de-Haut’s Pompierre Beach, the most beautiful on Les Saintes, leads you through a dense labyrinth of gigantic coconut trees where goats quietly graze and stroll. Up front awaits a wide stretch of golden and white sand and a sea ideal for swimming. It’s a popular spot but it never feels crowded because of the ample space. Bring your snacks to enjoy on the picnic tables at the back.

Niçois chef Nicolas Rondelli has earned a Michelin star for this fine-dining restaurant by the sea. Reigning over a private beach with a view of the Lérins Islands in the distance, the kitchen honors the riches of waters below by serving line-caught fish from local fishermen, whose names occasionally appear on the menu. It’s not all fish—meat eaters will find entrées of pigeon, lamb, and beef. All vegetables are sourced from small local farms. Sailcloth canopies protect diners from the sun at lunch, and in the evening the stars twinkle above.

Vieux Fort Beach is one of the prettiest in Guadeloupe, a small, crescent moon–shaped stretch of light pink sand set next to turquoise water. It is shaded in part with almond trees, but beware the manchineel trees at the back of the beach—they are extremely poisonous and you shouldn’t even stand near them! Located north of secluded Marie-Galante, there is no development on-site. Bring your picnic, settle on the soft sand, and spend a romantic afternoon or sunset here, away from everything.

One of the most popular beaches on Guadeloupe is Sainte-Anne, a family-friendly, mile-long stretch of white sand on the south coast of Grand-Terre. A coral reef protects the beach and the resulting calm water offers shallow swimming for the little ones. The beach has everything you need, including a fruit and spice market, casual beachfront restaurants, and a nearby arts and crafts shopping mall. After sunset, it is illuminated until midnight and active families come for a cool night swim, beach volleyball, and street snacks. Food trucks come out for the night, serving up bokits (a kind of fried sandwich) and conch kebabs.

Located a few steps away from the Ponte Vecchio in what was at one time a medieval palace, this restaurant serves a traditional menu of dishes made with regional ingredients. Their beef is sourced from a farm in the Maremma countryside and the wine list highlights Tuscan producers. Even the restaurant’s name is a nod to the local culture—orafo means “goldsmith,” and this neighborhood was where gold workshops were once located. Start with Tuscan white beans drizzled with olive oil, with a serving of fennel salami, then move on to the pasta course. (The taglierini ai piselli freschi, pasta with fresh peas, is particularly good in season.) For dessert, try the pear slow-cooked in wine or cantucci cookies dipped into vin santo, a strong sweet wine.