Be sure to visit Ilha do Amor Beach, the most famous local site. Basically a party on a sand spit, this oblong expanse is accessible by ferry service (a euphemism for local guys who canoe passengers over and back) or simply by wading. If you go the latter route, you’ll be in good company: A whole team of wading waiters work the beach, serving fried fish and beer to customers seated at partially submerged tables and chairs—a setup that gives new meaning to “refreshments.”