Hope Larson’s 2023 book, Be That Way, takes inspiration directly from Asheville, North Carolina (more info), where the author grew up and is now raising her young daughter. The Blue Ridge Mountains drew Larson back after several years away and she shared these tips for a kid-friendly trip to the city. “I lived in the Grove Park neighborhood from the time I was a baby until my mid-teens and my protagonist lives there, too, so I wanted to pay tribute to gone-but-not-forgotten local businesses like downtown coffee shop Beanstreets—now the home of Green Sage Café (more info)—and VideoLife, now OWL Bakery North (more info).”
Larson notes that many of the Asheville locations highlighted in her book still exist. “One can still get a decadent slice of cake at Old Europe Bakery (more info)—or park in the Civic Center [now Harrah’s Cherokee Center (more info)] Garage at 68 Rankin Avenue, where the book’s climax unfolds and where indie bookstore Malaprop’s (more info) has been the beating heart of Asheville’s literary scene since 1982,” she says. “Asheville’s changed a lot in the last few decades…it’s a much bigger city. There’s nowhere else I’d rather be.”
For those traveling with little ones, the whole family will appreciate Asheville’s fun vibe, artistic energy, and opportunities to enjoy the great outdoors, including plenty of spots for all-ages picnics in nature. In this three-day family itinerary, you can stroll through Larson’s favorite neighborhoods and learn all about Asheville’s creative side.
Itinerary
Blue Spiral is one of many art galleries in Asheville.
Photo by Reggie Tidwell
Day 1:Discover Downtown Asheville’s Artistic Side
Once settled, stop by Vortex Doughnuts (more info) for a sweet treat. “The apple fritters are my favorite, and they have a huge wall of cool, affordable local artwork,” says Larson. Adults will appreciate flavors like lavender Earl Grey and juniper honey and tots will satisfy their sweet tooth with classics like chocolate and raspberry.
Then hit the galleries. Larson recommends starting with the Asheville Art Museum (more info). “It’s home to a fabulous collection of prints from the ‘30s and ‘40s, and of work from artists who studied at Black Mountain College,” she says. It’s also a perfect place to bring the whole gang—weekends typically feature activities for kids. At the Perspective Café, you’ll also find live music and board games, not to mention the stellar views of the surrounding mountains from the outdoor Sculpture Terrace on the roof.
“Next, I’ll head down the street to Blue Spiral 1 (more info), an art gallery I’ve been visiting since my teens,” says Larson. With more than 20 shows each year, exhibits in the three-floor space change every few weeks, and often feature artists from North Carolina. Round out the day with shopping, starting with one of Larson’s favorite boutiques. “Tops For Shoes (more info) is a must-see—they have everything, and they’ve been around since the ‘50s,” says Larson, who grew up buying shoes here and now shares her shoe-shopping outings with her daughter. In addition to Malaprop’s, check out Downtown Books and News (more info), which sells a wide array of used books. When it’s time for a little pick-me-up or a light lunch, Larson recommends Izzy’s Coffee Den (more info) on Lexington. “I get compliments every time I wear their opossum shirt,” she says.
Next, stop by Lexington Park Antiques (more info). “It’s been around a long time, and whenever I have time to kill, I’ll wander through the booths and see if anything catches my eye,” says Larson. Then pop by Grove Arcade (more info), constructed in 1928 to be the country’s first indoor mall. “It’s such a cool historical building—it was closed to the public when I was growing up and I was always curious what it was like inside,” says Larson. She particularly loves Serenity + Scott Apothecary (more info) for cruelty-free skincare and fragrances. After perusing the shops, you can head downtown to a Larson favorite, Baba Nahm (more info), to grab a pita.
For a fun family dinner, she suggests Well Played Board Game Café (more info). “With hundreds of games available, it is great for a relaxed evening,” she says. For grown-ups who want a nightcap, Larson has just the spot. “I’m not a beer drinker—sad, I know, in a town known for beer—but I enjoy a cocktail. Top of the Monk (more info) is my favorite cocktail bar downtown. It features speakeasy vibes and a dreamy rooftop patio.”
Leo’s House of Thirst
Photo by Reggie Tidwell
Day 2:Tour West Asheville and the River Arts District
Plenty of charming boutiques await in this neighborhood, too. “I’ve been shopping at Garden Party (more info) since they opened. It’s my ‘treat yo’ self’ store and I have the collection of Boy Smells candles and Le Bon Shoppe socks to prove it,” Larson says. “Morgan’s Comics (more info) is a cozy, welcoming space for comics fans of all ages,” she says. When feeling nostalgic, she visits Orbit DVD (more info) to browse the real-life video store that plays a role in Be That Way.
For more art, make the five-minute drive to the River Arts District (more info). “It’s a great place to wander around and get steps in to check out a variety of work by local artists,” says Larson. Foundy Street is a three-minute walk and where Larson loves to take in the graffiti murals on the buildings. When hunger strikes, there’s a carb for that. “For baked goods, the babka at Mother (more info) is unbeatable, and my four-year-old adores their big, salty pretzels.”
For dinner, Larson is a fan of Leo’s House of Thirst (more info), where you’ll find firepits and an excellent natural wine list. “It’s where I can linger and people-watch as long as I want over an exciting bottle of wine, a few oysters, and my personal favorite, the chicken liver mousse,” she says. The menu also has an elevated grilled cheese for kiddos.
The Asheville Botanical Gardens
Photo by Tim Robison
Day 3:Get Outdoors and Visit the North Side
Afterward, take the gang for a sweet treat. “In North Asheville, I have many fond memories of getting ice cream at the Hop (more info), which shares space with my current obsession, Pop Bubble Tea (more info),” she says. The kids will love both.
Larson grew up in the Grove Park Historic District, where walking around to view the colonial and Tudor revival homes and the bungalow-style architecture is a favorite pastime. Situated within the neighborhood is the Omni Grove Park Inn (more info), an inspirational getaway for literary geniuses (F. Scott Fitzgerald was a guest) and those looking for an escape. Built in 1913, the property’s restaurants, bars, and other amenities are worth visiting on any trip to Asheville. If you’re here during the holiday season, the whole family will love the National Gingerbread Competition. Come on any Thursday and take a wild food stroll in partnership with No Taste Like Home (more info), which also runs foraging tours around the area to seek out whatever edible treasures are currently in season.
The inn sits on the western-facing slope of Sunset Mountain within the Blue Ridge Mountains and is one of the best places to catch a sunset over dinner at the Sunset Terrace. “I absolutely love watching the sunset on the gorgeous stone patio at the Grove Park Inn—or sipping a hot toddy in a rocking chair by one of their enormous fireplaces,” says Larson.