Whether you fly into Asheville Regional Airport or drive, arrival brings that sense of welcome that is so very Asheville. Check into Whitegate Inn & Cottage, an LGBTQ-owned, historic bed-and-breakfast located close to downtown. The stunning inn, originally built in 1889, is run today by Ralph Coffey and Frank Salvo and includes one freestanding cottage among its accommodation offerings. A stay here suits the historical nature of this trip, as does the nearby Abbington Green Bed & Breakfast Inn. Or head a little further afield for newer construction in more pastoral environments at Bent Creek Lodge or Sourwood Inn, which also has a detached cabin.   

First up is Biltmore Estate. It’s easy to spend a full day here, touring the museum and largest privately-owned home in the U.S. and enjoying the property’s spectacular gardens and grounds. Consider taking one of the estate’s longer trails for hikes of up to six miles along the French Broad River between the house and the Biltmore Inn. (Pro tip: Go by bicycle or on horseback! Both options are available through the property.) 

With the appetite you’ve worked up, Buxton Hall Barbecue makes an authentic stop for dinner. This local favorite since 2015 is a partnership between two James Beard-nominated chefs, Elliott Moss, who brings BBQ knowledge from his native Florence, South Carolina, and Meherwan Irani who originally hails from Ahmednagar, India. (Irani’s culinary cred includes a total of four James Beard nominations for his other Asheville restaurant, the Indian street food spot Chai Pani.)

Good morning, Asheville! After a lovely breakfast at the inn, start the day with a downtown tour from Hood Huggers (currently only offering walking tours). These small, interactive tours explore African American resilience through history and art, touching on subjects including  “Affrilachians,” the early prosperity of Asheville’s Black communities such as the historic business district, “The Block,” their decimation in the 70s, and reform underway today. (Recent efforts include a unanimous city council vote to provide reparations to Black residents in the form of investments, and a proposed renaming of the city after tennis great Arthur Ashe, a descendant of enslaved people owned by the governor for which it’s currently named.) 

You can also choose to guide yourself this morning, taking the Asheville Urban Trail. (Or consider one of the many other tours available, from art to distilleries.) This 1.7-mile route includes 30 stations, each with illuminating information about downtown Asheville’s storied architecture and history. Don’t miss The Block and its important YMI Cultural Center, the stunning Art Deco S&W Building just up the way, and the Basilica of St. Lawrence, home to North America’s largest self-supporting elliptical dome.  

For something with a story behind it to take home, consider stopping at the Noir Collective AVL, a shop and gallery in The Block featuring the creations of Black artists, artisans, and entrepreneurs such as painter Jenny Pickens. Also in The Block, the LEAF Global Arts Center’s store is a chance to take in some culture while supporting the community. In walking distance, there’s also LGBTQ-owned Asheville Bee Charmer, a local honey store with a tasting bar featuring over 50 varietals, and L.O.F.T., an eclectic, woman-owned gift shop offering a little bit of everything and then some. To explore more of the city’s small businesses, check out this directory.  

This afternoon, you’ll head to the River Arts District (or R.A.D.) to experience some of the 200+ working artist studios and galleries. Check out work by Ken Vallario, Matt Wegleitner, Jen Gordon, and many others who show at John Payne’s Wedge Studios, which also houses a brewery by the same name—because no exploration of “Beer City USA” culture today would be complete without craft brews. For a little pick-me-up of coffee and snacks, check out Black-owned Grind AVL.  

If you’re hungry on the early side, go for dinner at the woman-owned 12 Bones Smokehouse, a destination for baby back ribs that was a favorite of Barack Obama (and we say early because it closes at 5pm). If you’re not quite ready to eat by that time, there are plenty of other great spots in the R.A.D. like RosaBees for Polynesian cuisine and cocktails.

This morning, you’re dining at the Tiger Bay Café, a Black-owned, family-run restaurant with tasty options for breakfast and lunch, like bacon, egg, and cheese bagels and pork tacos, in a space featuring the artwork of Asheville-born Black artist Frank Dunson and located in West Asheville. Pick up some treats for later while you’re here, like the popular banana pudding cupcake, at AVL Cake Lady, a Black-owned bakery.

For lunch, take part in the very Ashevillian ritual of beer at the community-minded Hi-Wire Brewing’s Big Top, where there’s also a food truck with burgers from Black Mountain’s fantastic Foothills Butcher Bar. Another great burger spot to check out is Juicy Lucy’s Burger Bar & Grill, a family-owned and operated spot on Hendersonville Road.  
For dinner tonight, make your way to the lively Limones for exceptional Mexican cuisine from Hugo Ramirez, a French-trained chef from Mexico City by way of San Francisco. Try dishes like carne asada with Cerignola olive chimichurri and seafood tom yum with lobster and sea scallops. Be sure to book ahead, because reservations often fill up fast!

Get up early to catch a beautiful Blue Ridge Mountain sunrise. The Blue Ridge Parkway, a scenic mountain drive, provides a series of breathtaking views. From there, head to The Folk Art Center & Southern Highland Craft Guild. Take the tour to learn about the fascinating history of Appalachian folk art, and check out the craft guild where many artisans and artists offer one-of-a-kind creations that make treasured souvenirs or gifts.  

This evening, dine at Benne on Eagle, which in 2020 made Malcolm McMillian its second Chef de Cuisine (and the second African American chef to hold the position). Located at the Foundry Hotel, the fantastic Southern-meets-African menu includes dishes like baked Goat Lady Lindale mac and cheese and xawaash-spiced chicken wings with cilantro coconut sauce.

After a lovely breakfast at the inn, bid farewell to Ralph, Frank, and everyone from Whitegate, and drive out of town toward Flat Rock for one last cultural experience in the area at the historic home of American poet Carl Sandburg. Sandburg purchased the 245-acre property in 1945, and lived here until 1969. To cap off your visit, take the scenic 1.3-mile Glassy Mountain Trail and take in some views that just might inspire a sonnet about your time here before you travel on.