A Culinary Tour of West Sweden

You’ll land this morning in Gothenburg, on Sweden’s western coast—a bustling, cosmopolitan city that’s also a peaceful seaside enclave, thanks to its many parks and charming islands. The country’s second-largest city has long been oriented towards the sea; the very reason it was founded in the 17th century was so Sweden could have a port on the North Sea, with access to the Atlantic. For centuries, fishing ships have crowded its harbor, and one place see the results of their efforts is at Saluhallen—a visually stunning food hall that’s been in operation since 1888. A swirl of aromas envelops you as you walk under its barrel-vaulted glass ceiling: Beyond fish, you’ll find specialty stores of all kinds, selling everything from baked goods to reindeer and Swedish blueberries.

Then you’ll want to sample some of that fresh fish, by savoring a meal at one of the city’s excellent seafood restaurants. One of the most acclaimed is Restaurant Vrå, which combines Nordic and Japanese flavors in ingenious ways. Oysters are hand-picked by divers and the fish comes straight from the source; it’s all served in a cozy space inside a building that was once the city’s post office. Or book a table at another celebrated restaurant, SK Mat & Människor, which pays tribute to the heritage of Swedish cuisine by serving inventive, contemporary dishes with local ingredients in an intimate space with an open kitchen. Also, the team behind Huggorm has occasional pop-up restaurants serving unforgettable multi-course meals focused on seafood. They’re much anticipated and book up quickly, so keep an eye out.

Gothenburg offers more than just excellent food, of course. Haga, once a suburb of the city but long ago absorbed into it, delivers charm in spades along its cobblestoned streets, with traditional preserved wooden homes and cozy cafes. It’s an ideal area to stroll and window shop, stopping off for fika (a sweet treat paired with coffee) along the way. And be sure to visit the Botanical Gardens, where a dazzling collection of some 16,000 plant species stretch across more than 400 acres. Colorful orchids, lush greenhouses, and a calming rock garden and waterfall make for a relaxing experience full of visual excitement.

At the end of the day, enjoy the sweeping views from your room at the Upper House, a 53-room hotel atop the Gothia Towers that exudes a contemporary, understated elegance. Go for a swim in the hotel’s outdoor glass-bottomed pool that also features views out across this delightful city, then begin your evening in the hotel’s bar, with a glass of champagne and oysters. You could also opt for the eye-popping Dorsia Hotel, a 37-room property in the heart of historic Gothenburg. Timeless elegance comes to life among the dark-colored walls, velvety drapes, and bold accents, immersing you in a world that feels ancient and modern, as well as sexy and homey all at once.

Just off of Gothenburg, the islands of the northern and southern archipelagoes are must-visit day trips on any visit to the city. They’re full of local charm, great outdoor activities, and wonderful restaurants with water views. Even better, you can hop a public ferry that snakes its way along the shimmering water and stops at these natural treasures, making it super-easy to do some island-hopping.

To visit Hönö Island, though, you don’t even need a ferry—you can reach it in just over an hour by public bus from Gothenburg. And one of the exciting activities you’ll find here is taking a fishing charter out to see the how Gothenburg’s restaurants end up with their delicious bounty. Of course, one of the most authentic ways to go is aboard an old wooden fishing boat, and that’s exactly what you’ll find as you’re welcomed aboard Kastor Båtturer’s 2.5-hour Seafood Safari. You’ll feel like history has come to life as you breath the salt air and visit prime spots to find shellfish; even better, you’ll then cook and eat your catch once you get back to Hönö. Or check out Havskatten, which offers lobster safaris in season (starting in late September) and fishing trips throughout the year.

If you’d prefer to stay on dry land, Hönö Island is perfectly set up to explore by bike. Stop off at Ersdalen nature reserve, where ancient inland ice has shaped a dramatic landscape full of huge boulders by the ocean’s edge that offer breathtaking views. Then ride to one of the beaches and cool off with a refreshing dip in the sea, with the boulders just offshore creating a natural silhouette against the horizon. At the island’s lively harbor, the Fishing Museum is stuffed with memorabilia and features opportunities to learn about Hönö’s maritime past. After you’ve learned about how fish has long been caught here, enjoy some of the freshest selections at the bright, airy Restaurant Tullhuset, known for its shrimp sandwiches and signature Customs House fish soup. Whether you sit outside or in, you’ll enjoy the restaurant’s great water views.

After your island excursion, return to Gothenburg and settle into your luxurious accommodations at either the Upper House or the Dorsia.

Today you’ll discover even more about what makes this part of Sweden both visually compelling and absolutely welcoming. Depart from Gothenburg and as you head inland, prepare for an exciting meal. Your destination is Garveriet, an old tannery on the banks of the river Såveän that’s been transformed into a hip industrial space. As you enter, you’ll be transfixed by the aroma of bread baking in a wood-burning oven—it’s just the beginning of their fresh-baked treats, which also include pies and cookies. Then sit down for a delicious meal with a focus on sustainability and locally grown produce. If you’re looking for gifts for friends who love to cook, drop by the Craferi, or pantry, where you’ll find local products perfect to bring home. Of course, you can also buy some for yourself and start baking your own rye bread and strawberry cake when you get home.

In the afternoon, you’ll head to an incredibly charming island that comes with a royal pedigree, along with the stunning sea views that you’ve come to expect, full of rocky outcroppings peppering the shimmering sea. Marstrand lies just off the Bohuslän coast and is Sweden’s sailing capital—its marina is typically filled with yachts. Long a center of herring fishing, it was reborn in the late 19th century as a resort for Sweden’s elite. Elegant, turn-of-the-century hotels and houses have been meticulously restored, yet Marstrand doesn’t feel like it’s been preserved under glass. It remains a popular favorite of families and others who want to enjoy a day by the sea, exploring the delightful historic town and massive 17th-century Carlstens Fortress, which sits atop the island’s pinnacle and overlooks the island in striking fashion.

Your final stop for today, Klädesholmen, isn’t far as the crow flies; it sits on an island just north of Marstrand. Since you’re not a crow, however, getting to Klädesholmen will require driving for about an hour back to the mainland. The town’s fortune was long tied to herring; today, fishermen’s cottages, a herring museum, and a herring factory reflect that legacy. And if you’ve never stayed in a floating hotel, tonight is your chance: Salt & Sill is one of Sweden’s thoroughly unique hotel gems. Two-story rooms sit on a floating pontoon with views of either the town or the outer archipelago; inside, they boast a cool, minimalist design that evokes the area’s seafaring past and modern Swedish culture.

Today you’ll continue your exploration of the gorgeous Bohuslän Coast. Your first destination is the town of Ramsvik, but be prepared for frequent stops, as the landscape of islands and inlets along this stretch of Sweden’s coast is especially scenic.

At the end of your drive, you’ll join a truly unique experience with Edible Country. Not only is your dining table on a rock by the water’s edge, but you’ll also be helping to prepare your meal. Chef Thomas Sjögren provides the recipe, and you’ll learn to make one of Sweden’s favorite summer dishes: herring with potatoes. It’s ideally suited to the setting, as this part of Sweden is the source of much of the country’s mackerel, mussels, lobsters, and, yes, herring. Then sit down and dig in for an authentic taste of Sweden, savored with a view. And with the cooking tips you’ve picked up, it’s a meal you can recreate at home, to relive this magical experience. Duly sated, go for a relaxing walk on trails along the beautifully rugged coast.

The Edible County experience lasts for roughly six hours, from noon to 6 p.m., and is only offered on Fridays. If you’re visiting on another day or the experience has sold out, you’ll find other nearby restaurants to enjoy a meal focused on the sea’s bounty. In nearby Fiskebäckskil, Brygghuset sits on the water’s edge, with view of ships and sea. Its owners are proud of their long and close connections to the area’s fishermen, who will typically set aside the best of their daily catches for the restaurant. The fish and local produce are then turned into exquisite dishes that reflect a mixture of French and Bohuslän influences and preparations.

If you don’t want to go far after your meal, you’ll find a super-charming hotel, Slipens, adjacent to the restaurant. Cozy rooms here bring history to life, with memorabilia that pay tribute to some of the area’s colorful characters, like fisherman Gustav Berntsson, as well as Regina Andersson, who rowed a passenger ferry boat to support her family until she was almost 80 years old. You can also stroll the charming fishing village nearby, Grundsund, and take an evening kayak tour, paddling in the calm waters and letting the colors in the sky soothe you as the sun moves ever closer to the horizon. Or spend the night at Lådfabriken, a former factory that was repurposed as a hotel and opened in 2013. The colorful, four-room property sits just 100 feet from the sea, in an especially tranquil part of the Bohuslän Coast.

After breakfast at Lådfabriken and a final seaside stroll or a swim in the ocean, drive back to Gothenburg to begin your journey home. Despite all the meals, you may not be sated after having had your first taste of Gothenburg and West Sweden, and you’ll likely be dreaming of your return visit. After seeing Hönö, perhaps next time you’ll explore other islands of the Gothenburg archipelago. Or when you return you may want to include three days of digital detox in one of the 72-Hour Cabins, where you can commune with nature from the spectacular setting of a glass-walled cabin. Much like the langoustines and oysters you’ve sampled, you’ll realize that one visit to western Sweden will only make you eager for another.