JOURNEYS

Madrid’s Craft Shops Are Its Best-Kept Secret

Between a 160-year-old espadrille maker and a ceramicist preserving a Moorish-era tradition, Madrid’s artisans round out a city built for everyday luxury.
Man with glasses in a blue and white striped shirt and khaki apron pours into a mold in his ceramics studio

Guille García-Hoz at work in his ceramics studio

Photo by Jimmy Pham

Madrid’s ceramic tradition dates to the Moorish period, and it’s still thriving today in the hand-painted, wood-fired pieces coming out of a small studio you can visit in in Malasaña, a walkable neighborhood known for its vintage shops and independent designers. That studio anchors a Made Here by Afar episode hosted by Jenny Walton, the artist and vintage expert who debuted her first book, Jenny Sais Quoi, earlier this year. This trip trades the museum checklist for the city’s everyday luxury: centuries-old dining rooms, a working ceramicist’s studio, and neighborhoods built for long lunches and leisurely shopping.

American Airlines flies to the Spanish capital from three hubs—DFW, MIA, and JFK—which has us on cloud nine. Book with your Citi® / AAdvantage® Executive card to earn 4X AAdvantage® miles on eligible American Airlines purchases. Plus, it’s the only card with Admirals Club® membership, giving you a place to relax and unwind before takeoff. Walton enjoys the lounge for “a little work, a bit of coffee (or a glass of wine depending on the hour), and a bit of daydreaming.”

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Itinerary / 3 DAYS

Man with light brown hair and glasses leans over his ceramics work next to a sink

Trip Highlight

Guille García-Hoz Ceramics Studio

At Guille García-Hoz's ceramics studio in Malasaña, an interactive class is the heart of this trip—and it’s the same studio featured in the companion "Made Here by Afar" episode. Watch it ahead of time and the studio will already feel familiar: the clay, the glazes, and García-Hoz’s own hands at work.
Dark gray Citi American Airlines AAdvantage Executive Mastercard

Trip Designer

Citi® / AAdvantage® Executive card

This itinerary is presented by the Citi® / AAdvantage® Executive card. Beyond the 12X miles you can earn on eligible AAdvantage Hotels® bookings, everyday purchases—like a hand-painted ceramic bowl or a pair of espadrilles cut to order—also earn AAdvantage® miles along the way.
The lobby at the Hotel Fénix Gran Meliá (L) and dessert at Casa Botín (R)

The lobby at the Hotel Fénix Gran Meliá (L) and dessert at Casa Botín (R)

Photos by Jimmy Pham

Day 1:Check into the Hotel Fénix Gran Meliá

The Hotel Fénix Gran Meliá is a 1953 landmark on Plaza de Colón that has hosted everyone from rock to movie stars. With your Citi® / AAdvantage® Executive card, you can earn 12X AAdvantage® miles on eligible AAdvantage Hotels® bookings. After check-in, spend the afternoon exploring Salamanca’s grid of boutiques. Bárcena is the stop for vintage jewelry, and Il Grifone covers high-end vintage clothing—both worth a look.

Stop for hand-sewn espadrilles at Casa Hernanz, a family-run shop on Calle de Toledo that’s been making the classic footwear since the 1800s. Then, stroll through the Plaza Mayor on your way to dinner at Casa Botín. Recognized as the world’s oldest continuously operating restaurant, it specializes in cochinillo, the traditional roast suckling pig, and the dining room has barely changed since 1725.
Woman in a black top and pants walks along a path surrounded by trees in San Isidro Park, part of Madrid’s Bosque Metropolitano

Walton walking in San Isidro Park, part of Madrid’s Bosque Metropolitano

Photo by Jimmy Pham

Day 2:Walk the Bosque Metropolitano and Take a Ceramics Class

Begin at San Isidro Park, part of the city’s ambitious Bosque Metropolitano green ring, for an early walk or bike ride before Madrid wakes up. Expected to take 12 years to complete, the Bosque Metropolitano (or Metropolitan Forest) will span more than 45 miles to help clean the air and restore biodiversity.

From there, head to the Guille García-Hoz Ceramics Studio for a ceramics class with the artisan behind this Made Here video [LINK TO VIDEO].

If there’s time, swing by Pilar Ilusión, a small vintage store filled with elegant designer pieces. Close the day at Azotea del Círculo, the rooftop of the Círculo de Bellas Artes, for panoramic views over the city.

Then, head to dinner at La Manduca de Azagra—don’t skip dessert; the caramelized torrija, where French toast meets crème brulee, is a dish you’ll remember at this family-run restaurant. Along with grilled fish and meats, another hallmark of the menu is the seasonal vegetables brought in daily from nearby farms, such as piquillo peppers and white asparagus from Navarra, the family’s hometown, and artichokes and pochas (a type of tender bean) from Sangüesa.
Blonde woman with dark sunglasses and a brown and white patterned shirt stands in front of a yellow building with a brick building next door

Walton exploring Madrid

Photo by Jimmy Pham

Day 3:Shop Leather Goods and Local Designers

Start the morning at the Santa Teresa street location of Malababa, the Madrid-born leather goods label, for handcrafted wallets, small leather goods, and jewelry made in the brand’s own Spanish workshops. Pick up a new luggage tag or passport holder so you’re ready for your next adventure.

From there, head to Loué, a vintage store known for its designer handbags. Then, browse El Moderno, a two-story concept store stocked with jewelry, home objects, and gifts from local Malasaña designers.

End the trip with dinner at Restaurante Ten Con Ten. Order the falso risotto de sémola con trufa, a semolina “risotto” finished with black truffle—it’s the restaurant’s signature dish.

A final tip: Leave room in your suitcase—between the ceramics studio and Malasaña’s shops, Madrid’s a city that’s hard to leave empty-handed.