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  • 1190 New Hampshire Ave NW, Washington, DC 20037, USA
    We have restaurateur Ashok Bajaj to thank for bringing the cuisine of his hometown, Mumbai, to the D.C. dining scene. Both Rasika and now sister restaurant Rasika West End have received rave reviews from both food reviewers and diners. You can often find me lunching at Rasika West End. To start with, I love walking into the bright, airy, modern dining space that feels very inviting. There are three separate dining areas including one that looks like a library. The only thing giving Rasika away as an Indian restaurant is the large silver hand mudra and the distinctive canopied booths, which are designed to mimic traditional Hindu wedding carriages. On the other hand, the food is Indian through and through, and it’s excellent. The menu offers modern takes on farmana (nosh), sigri (griddle), tawa (barbecue), chaat (snack), entrée, and vegetarian selections. Although Mumbai influences much of the menu, there are also dishes inspired by other regions in India. On a recent visit, I feasted on a Keralan-style fish curry—utterly delicious. Be sure to order the naan. It’s made to order so it comes to the table piping hot, with a very thin outer crust with charred bits from the tandoor oven and an airy, slightly chewy interior. Give me the naan and a bowl of curry or dal, and I’m in heaven. Rasika’s menu changes frequently, which brings loyal diners like me back repeatedly! Metro stop: Foggy Bottom
  • 1st Floor Dhe Puttu Service Road Near Manikandan Skoda Showroom, Edappally, Kochi, Kerala 682024, India
    Made of steamed ground rice layered with coconut, the tube-shaped puttu is eaten in parts of southern India and Sri Lanka, and is particularly popular in Kerala. This nice-casual, family-friendly restaurant, founded by a noted Malayalam movie actor, takes the traditional breakfast dish to the next level, offering an extensive menu of unique flavors and combinations. Try rolls topped with egg, mutton, or beef biriyani, oats, dates and cashews, and even chocolate and jam, along with house specials like Spanish (chicken with red and green olives) and Ringmaster (with three types of seafood); it’s best to get a few and share. A smattering of curries (including Kerala fish curry) are also available, but you’re really coming here for the puttu, washed down by the excellent cinnamon black tea. Note the wait for a table can be long during peak lunch and dinner hours, but take out is also available; there’s also a second location further north in Kerala, in Calicut.
  • Bekal - Bekal Fort Road
    Though the beaches of southern Kerala may get more attention, the Malabar coast shores of the northern part of the state are no less beautiful—and offer plenty of their own attractions. Case in point: Bekal Beach, a wide, sandy stretch along the Arabian Sea, set under historic Bekal Fort. The cove-shaped beach offers plenty of room to stretch out and soak up the sun, shallow waters for swimming, and artistic touches like a rock garden, murals, and public sculptures. If you don’t want to get sand in your shoes, take a stroll along the boardwalk, or venture up to explore the Fort complex. Little ones will like the beach’s children’s park, while adults should come back at night, when the beach is illuminated, to enjoy the magical atmosphere. Further along the shores, you’ll spy fisherman bringing in a daily catch that might include mackerel, reef cod, and tuna.
  • 1/1046 C, Fort Kochi, Kochi, Kerala 682001, India
    To get a feel for Kerala’s rich and layered history, head to Fort Kochi. Once a small fishing village in pre-colonial times, this area—now the historic old town neighborhood of the city of Kochi—belonged to the Portuguese for much of the 16th and 17th centuries, then to the Dutch for a little over a century, then to the British until India’s independence in 1947. For all that time, the waterside spot served as an important port along the spice route, with Chinese and Arabian traders sailing through to pick up sandalwood, cloves, cinnamon, pepper, and other local goods. Today, Fort Kochi features myriad reminders of all who have lived and worked here: the Dutch cemetery, Koonan Kurish Old Syrian Church, and the 16th-century St. Francis Church, the Mattancherry Palace (aka the Dutch Palace), colonial Parade Grounds, still-in-use Chinese fishing nets, and the painted tiled-lined Paradesi Synagogue, built in 1567 and considered the oldest active synagogue in the commonwealth. The Indo-Portuguese Museum and Southern Naval Command Maritime Museum provide more context, while Fort Kochi Beach—with its colonial-era bungalows, Arabian Sea strand, and food stalls peddling the day’s fresh catch—draws both locals and tourists. Architecture buffs will love historic sites like Thakur House, Bastion Bungalow, and David Hall, many of which can be spotted from a stroll along breezy Church Road.
  • Synagogue Ln, Jew Town, Kappalandimukku, Mattancherry, Kochi, Kerala 682002, India
    While some claim that the first Jews arrived in Kerala as early as the reign of King Solomon, historical evidence that is more solid dates their presence here back to the 12th century. The area of Fort Cochin known as Jew Town has seven synagogues, but only the Paradesi Synagogue is still actively used. (Following the independence of India in 1947, many members of the Jewish community chose to immigrate to Israel or other Commonwealth nations.) Constructed in 1567, the synagogue has hand-painted porcelain tiles and an 18th-century clock tower that are both of special interest.

  • Bastian St, Fort Nagar, Fort Kochi, Kochi, Kerala 682001, India
    While Cochin’s St. Francis Church managed to survive through the different conquests of the city, its Roman Catholic cathedral was not as fortunate. Construction of the earliest church on the site began in 1505 and it was elevated to a cathedral in 1555. The Dutch spared it (along with St. Francis Church), but when the British assumed control of Cochin, they demolished the building. The current basilica, built in a Gothic style, was consecrated in 1905. It stands as a remarkable reminder of the persistence of Christianity (if not individual buildings dedicated to it) in Kerala, where, unusually for India, nearly one-fifth of the population is Christian.

  • Taj Bekal Resort & Spa, Kerala, Paalakunnu, West (P.O, Kappil Beach Rd, Thekkekara, Udma, Kerala 671319, India
    Set in Kerala’s quiet northwest corner, the 26-acre Vivanta by Taj Bekal Resort is home to the excellent Jiva Spa, a staggering 165,000 square-feet devoted to wellness and relaxation. As Kerala is considered to be the birthplace of Ayurveda (India’s millennia-old “science of life”), the menu is heavy on treatments that highlight traditional techniques and ingredients, and that are designed to both target specific issues and provide general pampering. The signature Abhyanga massage—great for travel-weary bodies—is performed with potent, heated herbal oils, while the Mukhalepa facial brightens the complexion with natural products like saffron; decadent two-hour signature services are also available, along with scrubs, wraps, yoga, meditation, and more. Book a complimentary consultation to find the services that fit your needs, or go all in with a multiday or multiweek program for yoga, detoxifying, Ayurvedic wellness, and other customized goals.
  • Near Muthoot Sky Chef, Enjakkal, 120, Palayam Airport Rd, Vallakkadavu, Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala 695008, India
    This upscale restaurant offers a glimpse into Kerala’s unique history along with its flavorful meals. Enter a stone archway to find yourself in a courtyard of a restored 18th-century mansion that was first built as a traditional, two-courtyard ettukettu house for the King’s consorts, then later embellished with European architectural flourishes. Choose a seat in the antique-furnished (and air-conditioned) interior, under one of the courtyard’s peaked stone-roof gazebos, or in the garden, surrounded by statues and fountains; all options take on a decidedly romantic feel at dinner when illuminated by candlelight. The menu includes both modern version of regional classics and dishes that highlight the flavors of areas once linked to Kerala by the Spice Route, including Morocco, Italy, and other parts of India. So you’ll find everything from Syrian sampler platters, crab curry, pasta, and fish sautéed with onions and black pepper, and desserts featuring caramel, chocolate, and local coffee—all presented with heritage style.
  • Unnamed Road
    Surrounded by 40 pristine sand- and grass-topped acres, endless water views, and the sound of crashing waves, Bekal Fort—the largest fort in Kerala—feels like it rose up from the sea. In fact, it was built some three centuries ago as a defense post, lingering evidence of which includes the old ammunition storage areas and the cannon windows lining the outer walls. Today, visitors can wander around the complex, climbing up the observation tower, strolling around parts of the original walls, venturing out to the waterside walkways, and picnicking on the main lawns. (Along with the history and scenic beauty, the filming of some hit movies here has made the fort even more popular with domestic tourists.) After exploring the site, head down to the beach for some sea air and views of the fort from a different vantage point.
  • Ground Taj Malabar Resort & Spa, Malabar Road, Willingdon Island, Kochi, Kerala 682009, India
    Designed to evoke a traditional Kerala kettuvalam rice boat, and boasting views of the backwaters and historic Mattancherry from its perch on Willington Island, this restaurant—considered one of the best in Kerala—celebrates all things born of the water. Try a fresh-off-the-boat catch from the backwaters, such as the local sweetwater fish, or go farther afield with lobster or mussels from the ocean, or even imported salmon and oysters. There are several international dishes, like Lobster Newburg or pan-seared Canadian scallops, but opt instead for the items prepared with local flavors: think tiger prawn tossed with shallots and curry leaves, crab-and-coconut soup, and white snapper coated with tamarind and pepper, then steamed in a banana leaf. You can watch the chefs craft it all through the show kitchen, and ask them to modify spices as needed—ensuring the preparation is as fresh as the ingredients. Save room for the tender coconut soufflé.
  • Kannur Road, Near, CH Over bridge, Kozhikode, Kerala 673001, India
    First opened in 1939, this beloved local favorite is now being operated by the third generation of the founding family, who’ve also expanded the brand with an outpost Kochi and a couple in Dubai. The original Calicut location began with focus on the variety of Malabar coastal cuisines, including Moplah (the dishes of the Muslims of northern Kerala) and Thyyas, by the Ezhavas community in the southern part of the state. The menu now includes both vegetarian and non-veg dishes from all over India, including curries and breads made in the tandoor, but there are also a number of unique regional specialties. Check out the baby squid pan-seared Malabari-style, traditional moiley curry, and a selection of additive breads, including crispy, lentil-based appam and a perfectly flaky, buttery paratha.
  • Jew Town, Kappalandimukku, Mattancherry, Kochi, Kerala 682002, India
    As befits its location inside the Heritage Arts Museum, this restaurant is furnished completely in antiques, from the traditional snake boat lining the entrance hallway to the tables, chairs, pillars, door frames, and even parts of the ceiling—and much of it, both in the restaurant and showroom, is also for sale. This unique setting plus views of the scenic backwaters makes this a popular stop with expats and tourists, particularly those who’ve spent the day exploring the surrounding historic Jew Town. Revive yourself with dishes prepared in both Kerala– and general Indian-style. Almost everything on the menu—from the chicken and fresh prawns to the ice cream—features ginger in some form. Service can be slow, but at least there’s plenty to look at while you wait.
  • Ridsdale Rd, Near Parade Ground, Fort Kochi, Kochi, Kerala 682001, India
    Nearly 10 percent of India’s population are members of ancient indigenous tribes, whose art and cultures have managed to survive into the 21st century. The Tribes India showrooms are government-run shops located throughout the country that are dedicated to providing an outlet for tribal peoples to sell their handicrafts—jewelry, textiles, paintings and food products. The Fort Cochin branch is set right behind the Head Post Office on the Parade Ground. A plus of shopping here is that prices are fixed and fair.

  • Princess St, Fort Nagar, Fort Kochi, Kochi, Kerala 682001, India
    Fort Cochin, and especially the area around Jew Town, has long been famous among those with a taste for Indian furnishings and art. Its warehouses are crowded with works and antiques from the city’s colonial past (British, Dutch and even some Portuguese pieces) as well as items from later furniture makers and craftspeople. A standout store is Indian Industries, on Princess Street, run by the same family since the 1940s. As you explore this cavernous space filled with furnishings and artworks, you may be tempted to fill a shipping container with purchases. If you are, they can take care of all the arrangements.

  • In this week’s episode of Unpacked by AFAR, we journey to Kerala, India, to explore what tourism looks like when it truly benefits a local community—and travelers.