Search results for

This boutique takes you back to the 1940s and ‘50s with retro clothes and accessories. In addition to vintage clothing, Sivletto also offers interior decorations, furniture, and other wares that span various subcultures; from Rockabilly to Tiki. Getting there will take you through a back street and down spiral staircases into a cellar, complete with café, pinball machine, and hairdressing salon to give you a matching classic look.

In a city known for clean lines, Stockholm’s Södermalm district (“Söder” to locals) is surprisingly nonconformist. A slum in the 18th century, the neighborhood is now home to a mix of clothing and furniture shops; Thai, Greek, and Turkish restaurants; historic falu red cottages; and one famous fictional character, Mikael Blomkvist, the journalist in Stieg Larsson’s bestseller The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Linger at a cafe along the main square, Medborgarplatsen, and take in the scene.

The city’s most historic food hall is housed in a grand old building with a distinctive arched roof of copper and glass that lets light flood into the bustling interior. Come here to browse the 40 or so stalls and buy cakes, cheese, fish, meat, and vegetables to take away, or better yet, perch at a counter and eat right there amid all the hubbub of the market. The building was completed in 1889 and was landmarked as one of the country’s important buildings in 1985.

Usually I take a train across the Øresund Bridge, an engineering marvel that connects Malmo, Sweden, to Copenhagen, Denmark. Unfortunately, the train travels below the vehicle deck, which means you can’t actually see the bridge. And this is a bridge worth seeing. The crossing itself is about 10 miles. Coming from the Swedish side, the first five miles of your trip is over a bridge that floats 187 feet above the water before briefly landing on an island and then diving into a tunnel beneath the sea. The girder and cable-stayed bridge section has two pairs of free-standing cable-support towers that seem to grow in height as you approach . . . until they disappear into the sky. Even on a road that is more than 200 feet above the surface of the water, the tops of those towers are still almost another 400 feet above. Rent a car and take a trip across (either Copenhagen or Malmo makes a good day trip), but be prepared to pay a hefty fee for the privilege. The toll is roughly $60 U.S. each way. Øresund Bridge English-language web page has current toll information: http://uk.oresundsbron.com/page/1087

Take the bus south to the neighboring town of Mölndal to visit Gunnebo Slott och Trädgårdar. This charming 18th-century castle and garden has been restored to its original style, both inside and out. Built in 1778 as a summer home for a wealthy Gothenburg family, it is now a living museum where everything from the greenhouse to the kitchen garden evokes that era. Don’t miss the café, where sandwiches and cakes are made using produce grown in the outside garden.

Eating out in Stockholm can be downright expensive, and it’s not uncommon to spend upwards of $15 just for a sandwich. A local insider tip is to keep an eye out for signs that say “Dagens rätt” or “Dagens lunch,” placed outside restaurants and windows especially around lunchtime. This means “dish of the day,” usually served at an affordable price. In most places, the total price will include a salad buffet, bread and butter, and water as well as coffee.

Located in a 300-meter-square basement once used by fishmongers, this iconic store is the premier spot for retro shopping and is also Beyond Retro’s flagship store in Stockholm. With over 35,000 items available across its six stores, you can pick through Victorian-era attire, 1920s beaded flapper dresses, elegant gowns from the 1930s, and much more—spanning the 1900s to the early grunge-rock–inspired 1990s. A sister two-story store is located along Stockholm’s famous pedestrian drag, Drottninggatan.

Located within the walled grounds of Blockhusudden on Djurgården, Thielska Galleriet is a fine art museum with late 19th- to 20th-century works by Eugène Jansson, Carl Larsson, Bruno Liljefors, Edvard Munch, August Strindberg, Anders Zorn, and other leading artists of that era. Characterized by spacious rooms with glass roofs, the museum walls are covered with paintings, and collections include Nietzsche’s death mask and prints by Edvard Munch. It also houses painter Richard Bergh’s extensive archive—letters, notes, drawings, drafts, and photographs.

Thelins is an iconic Stockholm bakery that has been around since the early 1900s. Its first store opened on St. Eriksgatan in Stockholm’s Kungsholmen district, and today Thelins has six storefronts and a bakery where all its cakes are baked from scratch. At any Thelins, you’ll find an array of classic Swedish cakes—from Prinsesstårta (princess cake) with green marzipan coating and sponge cake layered with jam and cream to a variety of fruit and chocolate cakes.

Spinneriet Lindome, south of Gothenburg, is an enchanting destination for a weekend outing. The former spinning factory houses little shops and studios for artists, craftsmen, and designers, so this is heaven if you’re interested in interior decoration and design. Looking for something new for the baby’s room, textiles for your bedroom, or graphic art for your living room? You might find it here—and meet the designers behind the artwork at the same time. The shops are open to the public during weekends, mostly. If you are hungry, the restaurant Lilla Spinneriet serves excellent seasonal lunches.

Once a nondescript part of Stockholm’s center, Brunkebergstorg has been revitalized by the addition of two excellent new hotels (At Six and Hobo) and Tak, a rooftop bar with perhaps the best views you can see while enjoying an Aperol spritz or the house martini made with vodka, sake, and a touch of sherry. The panorama really is something special, taking in the whole of the city. One floor down is the restaurant where head chef Frida Ronge serves food that fuses Nordic ingredients and Japanese techniques, with dishes such as arctic char with daikon and grilled Swedish beef with yuzu kosho vinaigrette.

Stallmästaregården began its life as a somewhat rural stablemaster’s farm. This was before Queen Kristina decided, in 1645, that she wanted to host her midsummer festivities here, at which point the stablemaster rapidly transformed the farm into an inn. Now, despite being within the city limits, Stallmästaregården feels like a rural retreat, flanked as it is by the expansive Royal Haga Park and scenic Brunnsviken Bay, in addition to its own verdant gardens. A painstaking restoration and redesign has left the onetime farm still rustic and homey, true to its 17th-century inn background, while simultaneously infusing it with healthy doses of both midcentury and contemporary Scandinavian design. The true star is the restaurant, an unpretentiously stylish destination that serves gourmet Swedish cuisine to discerning locals and out-of-towners against a picturesque natural backdrop. But the best part comes when everyone goes home and the inn is left to the guests.

If you’re a fan of late Swedish author Stieg Larsson’s award-winning Millennium trilogy, or have read his book selections on long-haul flights, you might be interested in exploring the backdrops and settings of this suspenseful crime drama series. Take a guided tour (group or individual) that walks you through Stockholm’s edgier bohemian neighborhood of Södermalm, and visit spots like Mellqvists Kaffebar (which both fictional journalist Mikael Blomkvist and real-life author Stieg Larsson frequented) and Fiskargatan 9—an expensive address with stunning views over Djurgården and Gamla stan (Old Town) where protagonist Lisbeth Salander buys her 21-room apartment.

To while away time, you can go people-watching and vintage shopping in Stockholm’s answer to New York’s SoHo—South of Folkungagatan, called “SoFo” on Södermalm (“Söder” to locals). This busy bohemian district boasts some of the edgiest cultural experiences in town. Visit stores like Sneakersnstuff for funky limited-edition sneakers and running shoes, or wade through rows of vintage clothes at Beyond Retro, offering styles from Victorian-era attire to 1990s grunge-rock Pearl Jam–inspired clothes, with every era in between. If you’re into vintage—vinyl records, throwback clothes, paraphernalia, odd knickknacks—you won’t find them anywhere else if you don’t find them in Stockholm’s SoFo district.

It really doesn’t get more eco-friendly and organic than dining on freshly baked bread and pastries at Rosendals Trädgård Kafé and Bageri. Their breads are baked with biodynamic flour from the Saltå Kvarn mill in nearby Järna, and their dishes are cooked using seasonal ingredients and organic produce from KRAV-certified farms and growers. Don’t be surprised by long lunch queues. It’s extremely popular with locals who wait in line to dig into its minimal yet tasty rotating menu such as pan-seared Pike perch or Arctic char with roasted root vegetables or couscous. The café itself is inside an ambient glass greenhouse surrounded by flower gardens and fruit orchards.