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  • Tracing the life of a Portuguese poet becomes a way into the local culture.
  • In Portugal, novelist Charmaine Craig searches for the ghost of her hero, goes on a high-speed chase for delicious pork, and ponders the mystery of a writer’s trunk.
  • From gourmet canned food to briny, soupy paella, here is chef Joe Isidori’s pick of some of the best eats in Portugal
  • 120 Rua Garrett
    Open since 1905, A Brasileira was once the choice of Fernando Pessoa, the great Portuguese poet. You can sit beside him just outside, next to his bronze statue. Back in the day, this place was a hangout for writers, artists, and journalists. The location, in Garret Street, is great—just a step from the popular meet-up spot Largo de Camões. You can get there by subway (Baixa/Chiado Station), tram (Nº28), or on foot (go down Misericórdia Street, up Alecrim Street, or up Garret Street)—or come from one of the many streets of Bairro Alto).