Da Nang/Hoi An

Vietnam lends itself well to epics. Snaking down from the Chinese border to the Gulf of Thailand, its towering peaks, emerald-green paddies, and endless white-sand beaches offer enough natural beauty to inspire even the most jaded traveler. One of the highlights is the central coast. Da Nang, the country’s fifth-largest city, is the area’s chief hub. While the city is fast developing as a destination in its own right, neighbour Hoi An is long established as one of Vietnam’s premier tourist towns. Together, the two cities act as a launch pad for visitors to explore world-class heritage attractions and leisure options that range from golf courses and casinos to cooking classes and bicycle rides around bucolic countryside—plus, of course, some of Vietnam’s best stretches of sand.

Aerial view of the Golden Bridge is lifted by two giant hands in the tourist resort on Ba Na Hill in Da Nang, Vietnam. Ba Na mountain resort is a favorite destination for tourists

Photo By Hien Phung Thu/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Da Nang/Hoi An?

The best time to visit the central coast is in the spring (Feb–May) when temperatures are a mostly pleasant 25–30 degrees. Summer can be scorching and uncomfortable, with temperatures of up to 35 degrees, while the monsoon season (October–January) brings lots of rain and temperatures of around 30 degrees.

How to get around Da Nang/Hoi An

There are big plans for Da Nang’s international airport, but as yet most international visitors arrive via Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi, from which there are regular domestic flights. Bangkok Airways opened a new direct flight to Da Nang from the Thai capital in May 2015, making that city another transit possibility.

There are several options for getting around. Motorbike taxis are plentiful and cheap in both Da Nang and Hoi An, while hiring a motorbike is a possibility if you need complete flexibility. Overall, taxis are generally the safest and most efficient method of transport, although a touch more expensive. Taxi scams are not uncommon, but can usually be avoided by riding with a trusted taxi company—Mai Linh and Vinasun are two of Vietnam’s most reputable.

Food and drink to try in Da Nang/Hoi An

Locals in Da Nang get their kicks from my quang, a dish of rice noodles topped with pork, shrimp, banana blossoms, herbs, and peanuts finished off with a spoonful of sweet-hot chili jam. The historic port of Hoi An, meanwhile, augments a culinary legacy which encompasses traditional dishes like cao lau (a noodle dish with origins in the soba noodles the Japanese brought with them on trade missions) with a cutting-edge restaurant scene. Some of the best chefs in Vietnam put their own spin on the country’s seemingly limitless supply of inspirational source material.

Culture in Da Nang/Hoi An

In Vietnam, Da Nang is viewed favorably mostly for its quality of living. It does, however, have a small but lively cultural scene and there are regular live music performances by local and visiting bands in such venues as Waterfront and Seventeen Saloon. Hoi An is more highbrow. There are a few decent galleries, and visiting international bands and DJs liven up the atmosphere at venues like Soul Kitchen on An Bang beach.

Late January to mid-February is a good time to visit if you want to breathe in the excitement of Tet, the lunar new year. The lead up to the celebrations sees Da Nang, Hoi An, and surrounding towns and villages come alive with displays of moon cakes, red banners, joss sticks, and red envelopes for giving lucky money (mung tuoi) to children. Hoi An’s full moon/lantern festivals, meanwhile, are another seductive reason to visit the ancient town throughout the year.

Local travel tips for Da Nang/Hoi An

For fantastic seafood, Da Nang is hard to beat. The quality is generally high in most places. If you are looking for a bargain feast, things get cheaper the further north towards the Son Tra Peninsula you go from the city’s main My Khe beach.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
A jumping-off point for exploring Hoi An on Vietnam’s central coast, Da Nang is coming into its own with new attractions and resorts, yet it still feels largely untouristed.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Behind these buttery walls, the most fashionable tailors are ready to help you design a gorgeous new wardrobe. Yaly may take an extra day or two for your items to be perfect, but it’s worth the extra appointments... and the price. Sure, you can go to any number of tailors in Hoi An to get a blazer made in less than 24 hours, but as with most things, you get what you pay for. Eighteen months later and the items I designed here are still most coveted pieces in my closet. Don’t know where to start? Take a stroll through thousands of fabric bolts in everything from wool to the finest locally made silks, or sift through pages of designer books as you sip on cucumber juice. And, be sure to bring photos of your desired item...Yes, even that DVF dress you swooned over in Vouge Italia last month!
Fine dining at the very highest level is somewhat thin on the ground in Da Nang and Hoi An. Nevertheless, there are stirrings at the top end of the market, with Pierre Gagnaire the biggest name to stamp his presence on the central coast dining scene. Other chefs are also doing a fine job in everything from fusion cuisine to exemplary hotel venues.
From October to December (and often longer), Da Nang and Hoi An are hit by the winter monsoon, ensuring wet conditions for much of the time. Thankfully there are plenty of rainy-day activities in the area, with everything from attractive cafes to secondhand bookstores to explore.
With a long and often tumultuous history that encompasses the heady days of the Champa Kingdom, Hoi An’s heyday as a regional trading hub, the American War, and Vietnam’s recent emergence as a tourist destination, the central part of the country is not short in intrigue.
Part of a family of three restaurants, Mango Mango has a prime location in Hoi An, on the Thu Bon River close to the Japanese Covered Bridge. Its bright interior—sunny walls; high, wood-beamed ceilings; a colorful replica fishing boat that doubles as a countertop—sets the stage for the modern Asian food. While many of the dishes have witty, pun-inspired names, like Lust in Translation (tuna rolls with seaweed) or Chasing the Chick (grilled chicken breast with house-made Asian pesto), the combinations of spice and texture are spot-on. In addition to the chow, expect delicious cocktails, Pasteur Street brews, and live music.
A short drive south of Da Nang, Hoi An is a spellbinding UNESCO World Heritage site, with intact 16th-century architecture that celebrates its origins as a trading port that long welcomed merchant ships from China, Japan, and Europe. The Old Town on the Thu Bon River has a number of sights that visitors must check off their lists. These include the covered bridge, also known as the Japanese Bridge; gorgeous riverside French-colonial buildings; traditional merchant shop-houses; historic pagodas and temples; ornate assembly halls where Chinese immigrants would congregate; and the town’s tailors, for custom garments. But the greatest joy of Hoi An comes from wandering round its quiet streets—the town center is car-free and a blissfully pleasant place to walk, especially at night, when it’s lit by red lanterns strung on the exteriors of buildings.
The fine contemporary-Asian cuisine at the Sea Shell, a sister restaurant to Nu Eatery (also in Hoi An), has been a hit ever since it opened in 2015. Set in a lovingly restored fisherman’s home on An Bang Beach, north of the main part of the town, the building has a soothing sky-blue exterior, hefty wooden tables, eclectically mismatched chairs and benches, potted plants, both indoor and alfresco garden dining, and a relaxed, homey atmosphere. The simple menu includes tempura prawn rolls, a handful of salads and soups, and entrées like the signature banh mi. The desserts are not to be missed.