Santiago

Nestled at the foot of the snow-covered Andes, Santiago was often overlooked en route to farther-flung destinations like Patagonia or the Atacama Desert. Today, it’s boom times in the modern, cosmopolitan Chilean capital. It’s where past meets present with colonial architecture and shiny skyscrapers, shady parks and nearby ski slopes, traditional markets and a burgeoning food scene, pre-Columbian art and avant-garde galleries—all in a delightfully warm climate that nourishes a thriving wine industry.

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to Santiago?

Santiago’s mild climate is similar to parts of California or the Mediterranean. Seasons are opposite the northern hemisphere. From October to April (the drier, warmer months), little to no rainfall occurs and temperatures reach the upper 80s. Winter sees a few rainy days, with high temperatures in the 50s and an increase in smog. Come prepared with layers year-round.

How to get around Santiago

Arturo Merino Benitez airport (SCL) sits about 20 minutes west of central Santiago. Book a “radio taxi” (look for Taxi Oficial or TransVip) at the baggage area inside the airport; it costs US$35–$45 depending on where you’re headed in the capital. TransVip also has a shared shuttle. Or you can take the Centro Puerto bus to the Los Heroes bus terminal.

The metro is the fastest and most efficient way to get across the city with its ever-increasing traffic, though trains can be full during rush hour. Most rides cost US$1.20-1.40 depending on the time of day. Buses, too, traverse the city. Buy a Bip! card for rides on both trains and buses. Taxis are readily available and safe off the street. In the evening, take a radio taxi and use the app Safer Taxi to locate a nearby driver.

Can’t miss things to do in Santiago

On the other side of the Mapocho River is La Vega Central, Santiago’s main wholesale market, lively with the seasonal abundance of Chile’s warm valleys. Sprawling for several city blocks like a labyrinth, the colorful stalls and carts of this foodie paradise are a great place to find real Chilean food.

Food and drink to try in Santiago

Santiago is the hub of the food and wine movement that has taken over Chile in the past five years. Visit a local feria (fresh market) or the iconic La Vega Central to sample the abundance of the long Central Valley. Young, innovative chefs are now experimenting with “Chilean Nouveau” cuisine in places like Boragó. Don’t miss the iconic spots Chileans frequent for sandwiches, completos (hot dogs with the works), and empanadas. For a taste of Chilean wines, a must-sip in the capital is Bocanariz.

Culture in Santiago

The contemporary art scene is concentrated downtown on Parque Forestal, anchored by the Fine Arts Museum with its permanent collection and the adjoining MAC (Contemporary Art Museum). Nearby, off cobblestoned Lastarria, the MAVI (Visual Arts Museum) hosts modern exhibitions, and the cultural center known as GAM (Gabriela Mistral) offers concerts, exhibitions, and dance. Off the main square, the Museo Pre-Colombino showcases pre-Columbian art. The gallery scene is strong with established dealers and young upstarts in the Barrio Italia and Nueva Costanera areas. Chile’s national dance, cueca, is making a comeback, with nightclubs hosting a local form called cueca brava. In west Santiago, the Museo de la Memoria commemorates human rights abuses during Augusto Pinochet’s military regime of 1973–1990. Many visitors also make the pilgrimage to Nobel Prize–winning poet Pablo Neruda’s home La Chascona, in Bellavista.

Santiago a Mil, or “Santiago by the Thousands” is the city’s largest festival. Held during January, this three-week event features both open-air and indoor theater performances. In September, when Independence Day kicks off spring, many Chileans head to Parque Intercomunal Padre Hurtado for a rodeo, games, and traditional foods such as empanadas and antecuchos (meat skewers).

Local travel tips for Santiago

As car ownership grows, so does the traffic. Whenever possible, avoid rush hour (7:30–9 a.m. and 6–8:00 p.m.). During the summer months of January and February, many Santiaguinos head to the coast, leaving the city delightfully “empty.” Many restaurants close mid-February for vacation. Santiago is generally a safe city, but pickpocketing can happen in crowded areas. Leave your bling in the hotel, be discreet with your phone and camera, and always be aware of your belongings.

Guide Editor

Liz Caskey

Liz Caskey is partner of Liz Caskey Culinary & Wine Experiences, a boutique travel operator based in Santiago, Chile, and an American freelance food & travel writer who has called Santiago, Chile home for over 14 years. She focuses on weaving together the region’s unique cuisine, wine, culture, and characters in stories and pictures (with her Chilean husband, a photographer). Follow her adventures in South America on her blog, Eat Wine, or find her on twitter @lizcaskey.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
More visitors are heading to Santiago every day as the capital rebuilds to a bigger and better city.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
The mercury during summer afternoons can hit 34C (or around 95F). How to stay cool during the hottest time of the day (4-6pm)? Besides seeking shade or air-conditioning, Santiaguinos seek solace in a traditional drink called “mote con huesillos.” Huesillos, sun-dried peaches, are cooked with water and a touch of sugar. The liquid and fruit are chilled and served with a scoop of toothy golden barley. Mote con huesillo is sold by vendors throughout downtown. More than a drink, it’s a satisfying, healthy snack.
Chilean “completos” are hot dogs piled high with the works--usually mashed avocado, chopped tomato, optional sauerkraut, and an obscene amount of mayo (maybe 1/3 cup). Actually, eating them is a feat of gravity without the toppings winding up on your shirt, or the ground. Chileans are passionate about their completos and no place draws them in like Dominó, an old-school soda fountain with locales peppering the downtown. Locals crowd around the counter to scarf down these dogs with Coca-Cola or freshly made juice. Various locales throughout downtown (see website)
Every day 2,000 empanadas are freshly made at this historic food landmark on the corner of Bandera and Huérfanos in El Centro. Santiaguinos pop in for a gooey fried cheese empanada slathered in hot chili sauce, piping hot. Stand in at the counter and order a “Pap” soda, flavored with Chilean papaya like the locals. Bandera 347, almost corner Huérfanos Phone: 56(2) 2672 2375
Chilean society is quite conservative by many standards with the younger generations finally starting to cut loose. Get more playful. Be expressive. US expat Jayne Morgan saw the opportunity to fill the niche for erotic toys in the capital, starting as private bachelorette parties. The idea was a runaway success and she’s expanded to now have two stories in Providencia and Barrio Lastarria to satisfy the demand. Sex toys, games, outfits, and erotic books, all imported of high quality and good taste, are all laid in her attractive stories with attentive staff. Monjitas 580, 2nd Floor (in Bar The Clinic Building) Phone: 56 (2) 2632 5988
Chilean wine is having a moment, with vintners discovering the myriad terroirs in the country spanning over 10 latitudes from the Pacific to the Andes--with over two dozen grape varietals. Many of the most avant-garde projects are small producers making garage or even underground wines alongside the reference wines. Enter Santiago Wine Club. The owners, two wine-loving friends (one French, one Chilean), teamed up to bring these inspiring wines to their loyal patrons in Barrio Lastarria. Arranged by valley, their are obscure, fun, serious wines for everyone. Owners are usually at the store and know their wines well. Perfect for any wine lover or drinker to take a bottle home--or drink while in town. Rosal 386, almost corner Victoria Subercaseux, Barrio Lastarria Phone: 56 (2) 2632 6596
Artesanías de Chile is a joint effort between the Chilean government and over 2,000 artisans from north to south to support their craft with three stores in Santiago now: Bellavista, Moneda Government Palace, and SCL Airport. The pieces are unique and made with first class quality ranging from hand-thrown clay pots (greda), ornaments made with “crin de caballo” (horse tail), Mapuche earrings and weavings, alpaca shawls, and wooden bowls among others. Every sale directly supports the artisans along with government initiatives to train them in their craft. Bellavista 357, Bellavista Phone: 56 (2) 2235 2014
Among the sleek high-rise buildings of El Golf, right off the Plaza Peru, is Tiramisú (aka Santiago‘s best pizza). If you are yearning for an authentic, Italian pizza with thin crust, buffalo mozzarella, and primo ingredients pull up a chair. Always buzzing with a long wait for tables at lunch and dinner, this family-run establishment starting 12 years ago with only a dozen or so tables--and is now over 132. Besides pizza, the large salads, calzone, and bruschetta are delicious. Isidora Goyenechea 3141, almost corner Augusto Leguía Norte (Metro El Golf) Phone: 56 (2) 2519 4900
In 1998, former Chilean dictator Augusto Pinochet was arrested in England at The London Clinic. A month later, satirical, left-leaning newspaper The Clinic was born. The newspaper’s namesake bar in the Lastarria area, housed in a gorgeous Baroque building, is constantly sporting zingers directed at many Chilean public figures. The Clinic is THE spot in Lastarria to toss back some cocktails or beers among hipsters. Every night it’s slammed. While they put on a weekend brunch and executive menu at lunch, it’s not about the food. It’s the cool scene. Monjitas 578, almost corner Miraflores Phone: 56(2) 2266 4440
Want to try hearty, rustic specialties that are considered true Chilean cooking? Look no further. This sprawling place on the outskirts of the city, in the foothills of the Andes, is a winner. Agustina Gómez de Olivares (aka Doña Tina), now 72, started decades ago selling “pan amasado,” homemade dimpled bread along the road. Years later, the whole family is involved. She’s stickler for seasonality so visit her during the summer months when corn is in season to try the heavenly national dish “pastel de choclo” or “humitas,” fresh corn tamales with basil. However, faithful capitalinos make the schlep east for her baked beef empanadas with juicy stuffing. Camino Los Refugios del Arrayán 15125, Lo Barenechea Phone: 56 (2) 2321 6546
Just a block away from the Palacio de la Moneda, the Chilean Government Palace, this culinary oasis offers tasty treats and killer coffee in a downtown setting. Known for its breakfasts, burgers, tea time, and heady java, you can rub elbows with local politicians fueling during the work week. Blue Jar is also one of the few coffee spots to sell the coveted “Keep Cups,” to keep your latte warm for the road. Almirante L. Gotuzzo 102 at Moneda Phone: 56 (2) 2696-1890