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Once a month, entrepreneur and fashionista Ane Etxebeste makes her online store, Kiluka Miluka, a tangible reality. This e-shop pops up in stores across the city. To keep up with the whereabouts of their unique and original designs (everything from clothes and accessories for women) check out their website.

Perhaps it’s because of airline restrictions, but I’m willing to bet that you never thought of a knife as a great take-home from vacation. Stop in Cuchillería Colmenero and that will change. They have knives with beautiful hand-carved wooden handles, some with a Basque flavor, others that were/are used by Basque fishermen, and a whole lot more. They also sharpen knives on demand.

La Bretxa shopping center houses the usual trappings of a modern-day shopping mall, but below ground one can find the city’s largest and best market for the fruits of the sea. Cold, wet and crowded, this is the spot where you will find both renowned chefs and housewives of the city vying for the best anchovies, calamari, and cod of the day’s catch.

“Aquí, Se Guisa” is the motto at Borda Berri, one of the Old Town’s best pintxo bars. The star of every pintxo is a braised critter: beef, octopus, rabbit, you name it. There’s no pintxos on the bar at this spot, but don’t let that keep you from entering.

Victoria Eugenia is a double-edged sword. A beautiful, red-velvet-swathed theater occupies the aboveground section of this building. Offerings feature biggish names in music, Broadway adaptations, and classical performances. Meanwhile, after midnight, it’s the basement that houses the action. The underground level is a dance club that’s at its peak from 2am on. Expect house music and house remixes of Top 40, as well as a lively, twenty- and thirty-something crowd.

What happens in the Museo del Whisky stays in the Museo del Whisky. And in this institution of Donosti, you never know what will happen. With a wild selection of whiskeys (as the name suggests) and an equally impressive gamut of cocktails, Museo de Whisky is full of surprises. Then there are the characters that visit this spot on a regular basis. The bottom floor is a piano bar with no holds barred.

Bar San Marcial is easy to miss. Tucked into a small hallway on Calle San Martzial, you have to duck in and head down a couple of steps to get to the classic wooden bar. Once there, don’t miss their excellent selection of fried things. The best, their house trademark, is the Gavilla. It’s a chunk of tenderloin, a slice of ham, and a slice of cheese surrounded by bechamel and fried golden brown.

Donosti Librería is the bookstore that movies are made of. In the family for 40 years, the shop’s beautiful art nouveau façade hides a calming interior. Walls are stacked with books, handpicked by the owners, and the overall atmosphere is the perfect blend of peaceful and provocative.

One of my favorite sit-down dining experiences in the city, Zelai Txiki has a couple things going for it. One is a gigantic terrace that overlooks the entire city. On a summer evening there are only a few places I would rather be. Call ahead to try one of Zelai Txiki’s specialties: whole suckling roasted pig or suckling lamb. These are roasted in a wood-burning oven and are an experience that shouldn’t be missed.

171 years crafting hats is a long time. The family behind Casa Ponsol are maestros of adorning heads, although they have since branched out into men’s fashion as well. The Basque beret is ubiquitous, and if you find yourself pining for one this is the spot to stop.

Vinos Ezeiza is a store of a dying breed. A knowledgeable owner stands among dusty wine bottles, able to answer any question you might have about his collection. Headed out to a fiesta? Bring your wineskin and fill it by volume. Buying Rioja wine in bulk is the ultimate Basque shopping experience.

Hakei began as a single boutique, but in the last five years has expanded rapidly, even crossing Spanish borders. The secret to its success? Gorgeously simple leather bags, supremely gorgeous shoes that tend toward the suede-leather persuasion, and luxe, drapey, oh-so-soft clothing for women. The price is right, too.

This bar in Gros is one, as the locals say, ‘de toda la vida’. A lifelong place to stop and enjoy one of their spectacular anchovy and tuna pintxos (I recommend the one that looks like a mountain of mayonnaise) or a pintxo moruno, a hanging kebab that is a house specialty. The pintxos are classic and delicious. Always a great ambience.

Pokhara, located in the center of the city, has one of the best ambiences around. The quintessential European café, with a touch of Paris and a touch of Spain, it attracts a younger, hip crowd. Don’t expect food beyond the obligatory croissants and tortilla española, but do try their carajillo. They put special care into this boozy alchoholic drink. First vodka or whisky (your choice—but choose whisky) is set aflame. Then a shot of espresso is pulled while the bartender whips body into cool, fresh cream. All of this goes into a glass to form the carajillo, one of the most delicious drinks known to man.

Simple, skilled treatment of raw product is the hallmark of the cuisine at Narru. With a chef once named in the Wall Street Journal as a top young chef to watch in Europe, the food here is quite simply delicious. Stars are the tomato salad, the seafood rice dish of the day, the crema de queso for dessert, and the secreto ibérico, an incredibly juicy cut of pork.