Search results for

Set in a refurbished Victorian hunting lodge on a 26,000-acre estate, Shieldaig Lodge is the epitome of Highland romance. With everything from breathtaking views of Shieldaig Bay to log fires, cozy lounges, and an extensive whisky and gin collection, the hotel offers Scottish hospitality at its finest, surrounded by stunning scenery. Quietly elegant, the 12 guest rooms come furnished with antiques and luxurious touches like Egyptian cotton sheets, goose-down duvets, and homemade shortbread from the hotel’s kitchen. For utter opulence, book the suite, which features a four-poster bed, separate sitting room, and rolltop tub with views of the bay.

At the restaurant, rare-breed lamb, Highland cattle, and deer from the hotel’s estate provide the raw ingredients for the sumptuous menu. Also available are crabs, lobster, langoustines, oysters, and scallops caught by hand right in front of the property, and vegetables grown in the on-site walled garden. After dinner, grab a nightcap in the Liberator Bar, which stocks an ever-growing collection of more than 110 gins and 250 whiskies from around the world. The next day, visit the lodge’s falconry (home to eagles, falcons, hawks, and owls), or have the concierge arrange a local activity, from deerstalking and fly-fishing to hiking, boating, and pony trekking.

Just a few miles from the world-famous Callanish Standing Stones on the Isle of Lewis sits Dun Carloway, also known as the Carloway Broch—an ancient, circular stone tower that was once 30 feet tall. Impressively, it remains almost the same height today, despite the fact that it’s crumbling on one side. Built around 200 B.C.E., the hilltop fortress features a fascinating double-layered construction and staircases within the walls. It most likely served as a well-fortified residence for an extended family, complete with space for animals on the ground floor, as well as a symbol of power and status in the area. Though it’s not clear how long the broch remained in use, it seems to have been still largely intact in the 1500s, when some of the Morrison Clan sought refuge there after being discovered stealing local cattle.

After arriving on the tiny island of Iona near Mull in 563, Irish pilgrim Saint Columba proceeded to establish a Christian church and monastery, creating a vibrant religious community that lives on to this day. The monastery survived until the 12th century despite repeated Viking raids, and around 1200, the sons of Somerled founded a Benedictine abbey on the site. Though monastic life ended on Iona with the Protestant Reformation of 1560, pilgrimages to St Columba’s Shrine continued for many years. Today, it’s believed that the Book of Kells, along with several other great works of art, was created here.

Visit this most sacred of Scottish sights to see the four iconic high crosses, then tour the abbey church, with its 13th- to 16th-century architecture. You can also stop by St Columba’s Shrine, the longest-standing structure in the abbey, dating to the 9th or 10th century; climb Tòrr an Aba, a hill above the abbey where Saint Columba is said to have had a writing hut; or walk through Reilig Odhráin, the graveyard where ancient Scottish kings were laid to rest. While you’re exploring, keep an eye out for the vallum—a boundary ditch and bank of earth that serves as the only evidence of Columba’s original monastery.

Stirling Castle is one of Scotland’s most impressive castles, particularly for its role in Scottish history—several kings and queens were crowned here, including Mary Queen of Scots. Tour the Great Hall, the lavish Royal Palace, the elegant Chapel Royal, and the Great Kitchens, then check out Argyll’s Lodging (Scotland’s finest 17th-century town house, built just beyond the castle walls for a great nobleman serving the royal court). Also worth exploring are the peaceful Queen Anne Gardens and the Stirling Heads Gallery, which features 16th-century oak medallions carved with images of royalty, Roman emperors, and characters from the Bible. When you’re done roaming the interiors, head outdoors and walk the ramparts to appreciate the castle’s commanding position above the Royal Burgh of Stirling.

The giant ferris wheel on the south bank of the Thames is made up of 32 futuristic glass capsules - all of which are sealed, air-conditioned and big enough to house 25 guests. Riding the attraction is effectively being stuck in a bubble, albeit one that offers 40km views in all directions (see if you can spot Windsor Castle in the farthest distance on a clear day). This is the wheel that never stops turning, and while views at the top are stunning, you won’t feel the ascent/descent: the Eye does one full rotation every 30 minutes, and turns so slowly passengers walk on and off at ground level. Curiously there is no capsule 13; since the number is thought to be bad luck, its been replaced in the lineup by the infamous no.33.

On the principal Orkney island, some 30 miles from the north coast of mainland Scotland, sits the best-preserved Neolithic settlement in Western Europe. From 3000 to 2400 B.C.E.—long before Stonehenge or even the Egyptian pyramids—Skara Brae was a thriving village, full of farmers, hunters, and fishermen. It was rediscovered in 1850 after a particularly strong storm and now serves as a fascinating tourist attraction, complete with nine surviving Neolithic houses. Outfitted with stone furniture made 5,000 years ago, the dwellings are linked by low corridors, roofed with what are believed to be original slabs of boulder. When you’re done exploring the village, head to the visitor center to view additional artifacts like gaming dice, tools, and jewelry.

When I first stepped into the blue folds of the ICEHOTEL in Jukkasjärvi I thought this must be what Superman’s Fortress of Solitude looks like. It’s that blue found in the water of higher latitudes, a blue that looks photoshopped although no photograph seems to be able to reproduce it with fidelity. Most of the time you and the other hotel guests are dressed in the hotel-issued technical gear: snow suits, balaclavas, moon-boots, mittens, caps. But when you sleep in the cold hotel you strip down to your long underwear, lock your things in a locker, carry a sleeping bag and sleeping sheet to your room, and try to get as comfortable as possible on the reindeer skins. One tip to remaining comfortable is to go easy at the hotel’s ICEBAR. The drinks, inspired by and named after the rooms in the cold hotel, come in hollowed cubes of ice and go down a little too smoothly. The bathrooms, contrary to the supposition made by my friend on Facebook, are not made of ice but you do have to walk outside to reach them at night. We dressed and went to straight to breakfast when we woke. (It is busy in the locker and shower area in the morning.) I ate a protein-rich meal to restore the lost kilojoules and then sat for forty-five minutes in the sauna. When you check out you receive a diploma (write out the name of each guest if you want individual diplomas) perfect for you to share it with the very friends who thought you were nuts for wanting to sleep in the ice and snow and the cold.

Rarely has a public building courted so much controversy as Ilfracombe’s Landmark Theatre. The architecture resembles the cooling towers of a power station, and some locals claim it is at odds with the character of the Victorian houses of the town. Judge for yourself by visiting the theater’s Rendezvous Café for morning coffee, lunch or afternoon tea. Get there early to snag a sea-view vantage point on the sunny terrace.

A pilgrimage to this enchanting park is a must for any Antoni Gaudí fan. Located atop Carmel Hill to the north of the city, the park was inspired by English landscape gardens, but its fantastical elements make sure you know it was created by Catalonia’s most eccentric architect. Though there are multiple entrances, the most impressive is via a grand staircase guarded by an enormous, mosaic-tiled dragon. It leads to a sprawling plaza with a mosaic-covered cement bench stretching some 328 feet around the perimeter. Park Güell was originally designed as a gated residential development, but it failed; a show home built to lure buyers is now the Gaudí House Museum (not included with park admission). Visitors should reserve an online ticket to avoid lines.

Heading to Glasgow’s Necropolis at sundown in winter is not for the faint of heart. Cross the bridge by the cathedral and enter the cemetery known as the ‘City of the Dead.’ Established in 1831, back when the city was one of the stateliest in Europe, Glasgow’s most eminent Victorian names were laid to rest here. Climbing the stairs up and around the necropolis not only serves to showcase the impressive grave sites, but is an ideal vantage point from which to get a bird’s eye view of the city. Some 50,000 people are slumbering beneath the earth’s surface, housed in about 3,500 tombs, some of which were designed by renowned architects like Alexander ‘Greek’ Thomson and David Hamilton. Come armed with a camera and sketchbook as it’s an ideal spot to get the creative juices flowing.

The Inca Trail is perhaps the most famous trek in Peru. This is the road to Machu Picchu, an ancient route that leads from the Sacred Valley into the heart of the Andes. You must obtain a permit and hire an official guide in order to hike the Inca Trail proper. There are plenty of tour operators in Cusco that offer trips up to Machu Picchu, so you should definitely look at reviews before you choose. For better or for worse, the tours are all-inclusive. The local tour operators employ porters to carry your packs and set up a camp. A team of local chefs will prepare three meals a day, and many hikers come back raving about the delicious meals. Keep in mind that the trek can be tough, especially in the first few days. The trail is often narrow, and it flirts with formidable heights. The mountains in this part of the Andes can rise well over 13,000 feet, and many hikers find themselves suffering from altitude sickness. Make sure to take a few days (in Cusco or the Sacred Valley) to acclimatize before you begin the journey. Finally: make sure to plan ahead! The Peruvian government limits trail access to 500 people per day, including porters. This regulation protects the local ecosystem and the delicate ruins, and it ensures that the trail won’t be too crowded. However, it also means that permits for the peak summer season sell out months in advance. If you aren’t able to get a permit for the classic Inca Trail, never fear: there are various other trails that lead to Machu Picchu.

Built in 1927, the neo-Gothic structure of the Windsor Arms was intended to resemble the buildings of the University of Toronto. (The hotel is near Victoria College at the university.) The entrance feels like stepping into a castle, the Windsor Arms logo perched neatly beside the portico, doorman at the ready. The hotel was purchased by developer George Friedmann in 1995 and resurrected with modern touches for a fresh debut in 1999. The hotel is birthplace to the idea of the now-famous Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF). It continues to attract celebrities who want a boutique feel, and though TIFF has shifted its headquarters south, the Windsor Arms will always be a refuge for those who want Old World charm and exclusive service. The streetside patio is perfect for people watching during the lively month of September. And in the hotel’s hallways, you can “stargaze” at the portraits of celebrities, from Robert Redford to Barbra Streisand.

Read articles from this print issue of Afar Magazine.

On this episode of Unpacked, host Aislyn Greene ventures beyond London’s tourist crowds with travel journalist Lottie Gross to uncover England’s rebellious cities, underground adventures, and the authentic local culture most travelers never see.