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Friends International is a wonderful home-grown Cambodian NGO that has now expanded around the world. They’ve reached out to some 60,000+ at-risk kids, youths and their families and communities through social services, training and education programs. Their social enterprise restaurants are some of the best in Southeast Asia, but I also love Friends ‘N’ Stuff, which is their line of fun eco-friendly products made by disadvantaged families as an additional source of income. Made from recycled materials, their range includes everything from the pencil cases and wallets, above, to jewelry and kids toys. They’re sold at the Friends ‘N’ Stuff shop at their restaurant, Marum, in Siem Reap, as well as at the weekend Made in Cambodia market at Shinta Mani Resort and other boutiques around town. When you buy them, you know you’re not only buying something that is eco-friendly, you’re helping to pull a family out of poverty.

Co-owned by French-Cambodians Nathalie Saphon-Ridel and Romyda Keth, the elegant Khmer Attitude was the first concept store in Siem Reap when it was opened way back in 2000 in Raffles Arcade. The women’s aim with Khmer Attitude (and Saphon-Ridel’s Galerie Cambodge in the same arcade) was to showcase quality Cambodian-made fashion, jewelry, accessories, silverware, silk, gifts, and objects that weren’t available anywhere else. The women work closely with Khmer designers, master craftsmen and artists to source and produce beautiful things that are luxurious in their materials used and excellent in their workmanship. Other than Romyda Keth’s Ambre, Eric Raisina, Garden of Desire, Jasmine, Theam’s House, and a handful of other boutiques, you won’t find exquisite things of this quality elsewhere in Siem Reap.

After a cotton krama, a colorful lacquered elephant by the artisans at Theam’s House has become the must-buy Siem Reap souvenir. Cambodian artist and designer Lim Muy Theam was the creative director of Artisans d’Angkor, the organization responsible for the revitalization of traditional arts and crafts in Cambodia, before leaving to open his own crafts atelier and art gallery in his beautiful home. Theam exhibits his own art in the gallery space near the entrance, and shows exquisite objects he has collected, from Buddha statues to antique musical instruments, in the small salas and main showroom. Most visitors are here to buy Theam’s modern takes on traditional Cambodian arts and crafts, including lacquerware, painting and sculpture. Wander through the various rooms and you’ll see artists and artisans at work out the back, doing anything from painting canvases to carving. Amongst other things, they’ll be painstakingly painting and sanding the elephants that have become Siem Reap’s must-have souvenir. Avoid buying the bad copies you see in the market - not only are these poor quality reproductions but they represent a loss of income to Theam and his artisans. Theam now has a couple of shops and his objects can be bought from other stores, but it’s a real joy to visit Theam’s House, where you might just find the artist at home. Tip: it’s tricky to find. If your tuk tuk driver doesn’t know it, call Theam’s House and they’ll explain or they’ll send you a driver.

The Instagram-worthy moments start with views of Bazaruto Marine National Park on the 15-minute flight from mainland Mozambique. From above, the white sand dunes look like swirls of frosting atop the turquoise sea, home to colorful coral reefs. Safari operator andBeyond’s new lodge reflects the Portuguese colonial influence on the island by featuring outdoor showers lined with hand-painted tiles and four-poster beds draped with white linen canopies. Verandas lead to outdoor dining areas perfect for enjoying the region’s famed prawns.

Louise Loubatieres’ gorgeous light-filled little concept store on increasingly hip Hap Guan Street is one of those stores you can easily lose hours in. The fascinating shop is located in self-styled Kandal Village, a compact neighborhood of three parallel streets wedged between the French Quarter and Old Market area that has become an emerging shopping, eating and drinking district. The lovely Louise, who can often be found out the back of the shop baking or making a pot of tea, is of Cambodian, French, British, and Vietnamese heritage, and her ancestry is reflected in her impeccable taste and passion for arts, crafts, textiles and design objects from Southeast Asia, and her carefully curated selection of beautiful things. Unlike some of my favorite shops, Louise doesn’t limit herself to ‘made in Cambodia’ products, and won’t hesitate to source pretty things from places like Chiang Mai or the Mekong Delta if she discovers something special. Louise largely stocks homewares, from colorful lacquer bowls to textiles that can serve as table runners.

Owned by two long-term Italian expat Siem Reap residents who started Smateria in their home with just three tailors, the brand has become one of the most respected in Cambodia. Smateria practices fair trade principles, including good wages and leave for employees, pays for childcare, lends funds to employees to buy sewing machines, and allows staff to out-source tasks to their families so they can work at home -- things that don’t always happen in Cambodia. The beautiful products themselves are eco-friendly. Made from recycled materials, such as disused fishing nets and factory remnants, they include tote bags, handbags, clutch purses, wallets, toiletries and cosmetic cases, and laptop bags. They’re not only stylish-looking, they’re also strong and durable, so once again, you’re not only buying a souvenir that gives back, you’re buying something that’s long-lasting.

The racks at Jasmine Boutique hang with gorgeous handwoven Cambodian silk garments, including exquisitely tailored blouses and trousers, elegant cocktail dresses and gowns, and classic shirts and skirts that can be teamed with anything from crisp cottons for a smart-casual look to sequined tops for a glam night out. The boutique was started in 2001 by Australian Cassandra McMillan and New Zealander Kellianne Karatau, who are passionate about handwoven Cambodian silk, evident in the quality of the beautiful clothes and accessories, such as silk scarves and clutch-purses. They also support other local designers and you’ll find pretty handmade jewelry like the pieces above to team with their clothes. They also have boutiques in Phnom Penh. Jasmine is located in the stylish shopping arcade at the riverside Foreign Correspondents Club or FCC Angkor. Home to Wa Gallery, a branch of Eric Raisina, and the John McDermott photography gallery, it’s easy to spend a couple of hours here browsing these chic boutiques in between drinks and dinner.

Let’s be honest. It’s so much fun to say the name of this restaurant. Inflections aside, Oh! Calcutta undeniably has the best Bengali food in Delhi. Oh! it’s delicious! Their specialty is seafood, but definitely try the Koraishutir Dhokar Dalna (lentil cakes) and papaya chutney. Oh! and be prepared to wait without a reservation.

It’s easy to feel like one of the Mughal royals whose kitchens inspired the menus at this fine-dining restaurant, thanks to the impeccable service, serene garden views, and elegant decor of rich woods and plush fabrics. The food would do the palace cooks proud, too, with an extensive à la carte menu full of delights like perfectly marinated, charcoal-grilled kebabs (a mixed platter is available so you can try each of the tempting choices), Bengal prawn curry, stuffed banana chilis, Mughul-style fish curry, and quail simmered in sealed pots that are heated underground. For a signature experience, try one of the traditional Indian thalis—a three-course meal accompanied by tandoor-baked breads, homemade pickles, rice pilaf, and more sides—or one of the six-course tasting menus, which feature dishes that meld Indian and Western flavors; think lamb with quinoa, “24-carat gold” chicken, and apple fritters in saffron sauce.

Along with stylish boutiques and design shops, the narrow lanes of the upscale Khan Market are lined with all manner of eateries, from cafés and cocktail bars to food stalls and fusions restaurants. As of late 2018, the roster also includes Sly Granny, which arrived on a wave of buzz generated from its original Bengaluru location. Through this often-packed bi-level outpost is smaller than the sprawling first location, the concept here is the same: a space “inherited” from a mythical globetrotting grandmother and inspired by her favorite recipes and eclectic style. Here, that translates to a décor of plush velvet sofas, old cookbooks, and crystal bric-a-brac, statement tableware, and bold, quirky artwork in the snug dining room, plus a cozy upstairs bar that converts to a cocktail lounge come dark. Drinks there range from the creative (crafted with ingredients like elderflower, yogurt, or honey-ginger syrup) to the classic (twists on G&Ts and Pimm’s cups), not unlike the style of the food menu below, which starts with pastas, steaks, and burgers, then veers towards tacos, schnitzel, chicken liver pâté, and Kerala-style fish moilee. You won’t need a granny’s encouragement to eat up dishes like bacon-gruyere mac-and-cheese balls, house-cured salmon, chocolate lava cake, and a twist on grilled cheese with ricotta, onion jam, tomato chutney, and two kinds of chilies.

Opened in 1932 in the historic Royal Khmer compound, this landmark hotel was the first luxury lodging in the area, catering to well-heeled adventurers intent on visiting the storied ruins of the temples at Angkor. Everyone from Charlie Chaplin and Charles de Gaulle to Jackie O and, more recently, Angelina Jolie have slept within its dramatic, art deco walls. Just a short walk or tuk-tuk ride to central Siem Reap, the hotel, now part of the Raffles collection, features 15 acres of manicured gardens with more than 20,540 species of tropical plants, making it a relaxing oasis after a day spent exploring the temples. Following a major restoration by David Grace Designs in 2019, the 119 rooms, suites, and villas—some set in the original main building, others overlooking the garden or pool—are now a vision of French windows, hardwood floors, and marble bathrooms with Italian tiling and oversized rain showers. Some have added perks like furnished terraces, high ceilings, or four-poster beds. Elsewhere in the hotel, features like the 1929 metal-and-timber elevator, art deco black-and-white tiles, and classic conservatory have been refurbished but maintained.

The large central swimming pool is ringed by loungers, while the tucked-away spa has a sauna, Jacuzzi, and six treatment rooms for excellent, regionally inspired therapies. Both in-house and outside guests frequent the six drinking and dining options, which include the legendary Elephant Bar, the elegant Restaurant Le Grand (serving both Western and Royal Khmer cuisine), and the completely renovated Apsara Terrace, which offers a dinner-cum-cultural dance show three or five nights a week, depending on the season. The on-site gallery and boutique showcase high-quality local goods.

While cute souvenir shops and even haute couture boutiques exemplify the changing face of the retail scene in Siem Reap, the city’s famous Old Market remains a heady hub of traditional trade and commerce. Located right in the heart of town, Psar Chas is amply stocked with lots of things that you might want to buy—as well as plenty of things you probably do not. That said, perusing the labyrinthine aisles full of silverware, silks, handicrafts, spices, stone carvings, and other assorted ephemera is worth a couple hours of anyone’s time. Stay calm and haggle politely with a smile on your face, and you’re sure to find a bargain or two.

This local institution and late opener is a popular haunt of Siem Reap‘s expats and locals, from archaeologists to artists, poets to tour guides. Laundry Bar’s friendly staff, decent pool tables, and cheap drinks are all big appeals, but it’s the excellent music that continues to draw most local residents to this dimly-lit, bohemian haunt a block from Pub Street. Whether it’s a live band, such as the superb Cambodian Space Project, above, who channel the sounds of Khmer rock ‘n’ roll from the Sixties and Seventies, a visiting Euro-DJ, or the eclectic soundtrack that shifts from jazz and blues to eighties French pop, the music is always interesting and engaging and gets punters tapping their feet or at the very least talking. While the staff will be booting drinkers out in the wee hours of the morning during high season, the bar can often close early (before midnight) during low season, so if you don’t want to miss getting a taste of Laundry, get here by 10pm. A warning: the drinks are cheap but they’re pretty awful. If you want good cocktails, go to Miss Wong. Laundry is all about the cool sounds and casual vibe. Check the bar’s Facebook page to see what bands or DJs are on while you’re in town and plan around it.

How often does a king’s car pick you up at the airport? Arrival at Heritage Suites begins with a vintage 1962 or 1968 Mercedes—one of which used to belong to the late King Norodom Sihanouk—before you’re promptly whisked off to a historic cream-colored building of soaring arches, mahogany columns, and wrought-iron balconies. With just 26 rooms (most of which are suites), the boutique hideaway is often so serene as to feel more like a royal’s private compound than a hotel—if a royal’s compound had its own high-end tour agency and one of the trendiest jazz bars in town. Rooms are spacious and surprisingly modern in style—all suites have a lush private garden, and top-tier rooms also have a private hot tub—and welcome drinks and canapés help guests immediately acclimate to the villa’s languid and decadent atmosphere. The sprawling saltwater pool and its umbrella-shaded sunbeds beckon at all hours (including for romantic candlelit dining), while the intimate spa offers yet another way to unwind in between temple excursions.

Best of all, the hotel gives back: It works closely with the Sala Baï Hotel and Restaurant School, training and hiring students from this school that works with underprivileged Cambodians, especially women, and offers guests opportunities to participate in activities with the school.

The biggest nature reserve in the country, Yok Don spreads across 450 square miles next to the Cambodian border and west of the town of Buon Ma Thuot, an important center for Vietnam’s coffee industry. The park is largely a dry dipterocarp forest of towering deciduous trees that provides a habitat for an array of flora and fauna—including some leopards and tigers, though you shouldn’t anticipate spotting any. Much more visible are deer, buffalo, some semi-tame elephants (the highlight for many visitors), plenty of avian life, and crocodiles that inhabit the Srepok River, which slices through the park. Great hiking and the chance to visit a handful of ethnic-minority villages are guaranteed. Visitors are required to use the services of a park guide.