The generous breakfast at Anfasteröd Gårdsvik’s Café includes a buffet as well as waffles and eggs. Feel free to indulge, as you’ll be burning off any calories you consume on a hike this morning.
After breakfast, drive to Ramsvikslandet, about an hour to the north. By now, you’ve likely picked up enough Swedish to figure out from its name that Ramsvikslandet is an island, though it’s connected to the mainland by a small bridge. This is a rugged stretch of coast, with pink granite rocks overlooking the sea, and it makes for gorgeous hiking. Paths run along the water for the entire length of the island, while others crisscross its interior.
Then drive about 15 minutes south to another island, Smögen. Here you can have lunch at Skärets Café
, which has been serving its open-faced prawn sandwiches since the 1930s. Its location on the Smögen Boardwalk with harbor views helps explain its enduring success, though now it also has one of Sweden’s young celebrity chefs at its helm. Thomas Sjögren, the winner of the TV program Battle of the Chefs, has chosen a quiet island life overseeing a kitchen where local ingredients are used in all the dishes and the breads and pastries are made from scratch.
In the afternoon, you’ll drive to Strömstad, a little over an hour to the north, and then leave your car behind as you cross over on a ferry to Koster islands (about a 40-minute trip). Tomorrow, you’ll have a full day to explore Kosterhavets National Park
, but tonight you’ll check in to the Kostergården
hotel and perhaps go on a short stroll, seeing some of the lovely historic houses nearby. Since the beginning of the 20th century, Koster has been a summer destination, and there are charming vacation homes near Kostergården.
The hotel itself, near the Kilesand beach, has six ocean-view apartments, all done in a bright, contemporary style, as well as 22 cottages. While you’re only staying here for one night, it’s the sort of hotel you may want to book again—the next time for a week, with a pile of books you’ve been wanting to read.