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Todra Gorge takes a while to get to but is well worth the journey. If you have time, stay the night, wait for the moon to come up as the sun goes down and see the gorgeous colours of the red-hued cliffs across the remains of the day.

Tayeb welcomes us into his “maison” with a disarming sense of calm. Walls and benches are covered in carpets in dizzying patterns and colors. “First,” he says, “it is our tradition to share some Moroccan whiskey.” I’ll party with the best of them, but it’s 9 a.m. on a Sunday. Tayeb cranks up an impish grin at my confusion and clarifies, mint tea is the house drink. We want some local culture and we get carpets, Berberes of every size, shape, age and color. But nothing on the floor. Tayeb said the floor is his pallet to paint us a history of this Berbere tradition. Let the artistry begin! The art of buying a nomadic rug is just that - art. There are rules about materials, weaves, dyes and patterns which are important factors, but the biggest motivator is taste. We’re looking for nothing in particular, but know love at first sight. Then the rugs begin spreading across the floor, ten, twenty, fifty, rug-on-rug, covering every inch. It’s a bit overwhelming but a delight to the senses as well. We start “seeing” the carpets not on the floor but in our life. The process of elimination goes quickly, two hours, with rugs disappearing to reveal our favorites. Prices are off limits until a choice is close. Kate likes one that stood out the minute it displayed. Of the five left, it’s the most expensive in the shop. Bye-bye, next. Owning an heirloom isn’t cheap. We bargain in a dance where toes are apologetically stepped on. Tayeb wants Keen sandals in the deal. We buy. We’re in love.

Rolling north out of the desert near Rissani, I started to notice roadside crowds of people trying to wave down transportation. While a common occurrence in Morocco, the numbers signified something going on. Our guide told us the Erfoud Date Festival started the night before and locals were making their way to celebrate the date harvest. Of course we’d like to stop... The dates in Morocco are delicious and they export over ninety-thousand tons annually. This festival used to be held in the town center but has long outgrown that space. Two large exhibition tents now house the displays and samples from dozens of date producing regions and countries. Erfoud is a carnival scene during this 3-day event. The town overflows with music, dance, food and dates. The mint tea brews and the camels race as locals and visitors crowd into this tucked away part of Morocco. There are places to stay in town but fill up fast. Rissani is a close alternative with Tinghir a couple hours out. Lots of food carts open during the event and there are a handful of restaurants in town. The festival was a little late this year, Nov. 9-11, and can run as early as end of September. Tough to plan for but serendipitous if you’re in the area. If you plan to buy dates, the prices are better at the roadside stands outside of town. Sticky, sweet and flavorful, make a hot date to spend some time with this delectable fruit. A million date palms gladly contribute to your gastronomical experience.

We kicked off our Marrakesh holiday with a visit to Maison MK’s Gastro MK restaurant for its five-course tasting menu. The riad‘s Moroccan chef cooks up a delicious, visually stunning Moroccan-French fusion menu whose highlights included fried quail eggs perched atop an almond and chicken pastilla, and an exquisite asparagus and tomato tart. Dinner begins with canapés on Maison MK’s rooftop terrace and moves downstairs for meal service. Feel free to take your mint tea or coffee up to the terrace to end your evening and enjoy nighttime views of the Koutobia Minaret. Reservations are a must, as there is a single dinner seating and space is limited for those not staying at the riad.