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Edgar Chiriff′s Wishlist
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70000 Colonia del Sacramento, Colonia Department, Uruguay
Remember: it's a river, not the sea, it's a river, not the sea. It's easy to forget this fact when you're gazing out at the still horizon of water, and even more so when you realize that the river has tides, too. The ebb and flow of the Rio de la...
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De San Francisco, 70000 Col Del Sacramento, Departamento de Colonia, Uruguay
Careful if you're claustrophobic: the spiral staircase of Colonia's historic lighthouse is narrow, indeed, and you have to climb through a hatch door at the top before emerging onto a tiny circular platform. But the views - the views. You'll look...
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70000 Colonia del Sacramento, Colonia Department, Uruguay
Bicycle, motorbike, golf cart - take your pick - you're definitely going to want one of these during a day out in Colonia. Having your own transportation allows you to explore outside the historic center (though you can certainly do that, too) and...
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70000 Colonia del Sacramento, Colonia Department, Uruguay
Not up for battling the crowds for beach umbrellas in Punta del Este? Perhaps the quiet river beaches outside Colonia del Sacramento would be more to your taste. These wilder, more natural beaches - decidedly unglamorous, with virtually no...
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Punta del Este, Maldonado Department, Uruguay
The exterior of this curious museum is as intriguing as the collections inside, thanks to the creative mind of its founder, Carlos Páez Vilaró. Although he wasn't an architect, Páez designed and built this rambling Gaudí-esque structure, which was...
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Punta del Este, Maldonado Department, Uruguay
Beaches are often named for their principal attributes, and such is the case with Playa Mansa. Mansa means "calm" in Spanish, and the waters are typically placid here, ideal for families with children and swimmers who prefer smooth-as-glass seas...
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Los Arrayanes, 20100 Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
Punta del Este’s Ralli Museum (there are five Ralli Museums around the world; this was the first) is full of Latin American and European works amassed by the museum’s late benefactor, Greek banker Harry Recanati. He founded the Ralli so visitors—...
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20100 Punta del Este, Maldonado Department, Uruguay
Years before Punta del Este became a destination on the travel radar, Chilean artist Mario Irarrázabal installed one of the area’s most popular attractions, the public sculpture known as La Mano (The Hand). It’s also called Los Dedos (The...
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Juan Diaz de Solis, 20100 Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
Uruguay, like its neighbor Argentina, is known for its grilled meats, referred to collectively as parrillada. This restaurant, popular among both locals and visitors, specializes in grilled meats as well as in seafood (caught fresh daily). There’s...
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Rambla entre Calles 27 y 28, 20100 Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
"Where classic and contemporary cuisine converge" is how Guappa’s chef describes its menu, and dishes like shrimp fondue, seafood lasagna and chicken salad stuffed into a pillow of phyllo bear out the claim. The menu also includes sushi and...
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Punta del Este, Maldonado Department, Uruguay
Locally made arts and crafts are excellent souvenirs that speak of the places you’ve visited. Guerra Art Gallery specializes in contemporary art by Uruguayans whose work is little known outside the country. Among those it represents is Javier...
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Punta del Este, Maldonado Department, Uruguay
The quirky exterior of this boutique hints at the unique offerings inside; these aren’t your same old, same old souvenirs, though they’re not necessarily artisanally crafted local keepsakes, either. Even if you can’t find something that suits you,...
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Playa Hermosa, Maldonado Department, Uruguay
Swaying palms on Hermosa Beach
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70000 Colonia del Sacramento, Colonia Department, Uruguay
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20100 Punta del Este, Maldonado Department, Uruguay
Punta del Este has long been a European hotspot for beach time during the winter in the northern hemisphere (seasons are reversed of course), but it has it's charm in the fall and winter as well (spring and summer in the northern hemisphere). We...
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Ituzaingo 1373, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
The oldest public building in Montevideo, located on Constitution Square, is the city’s Roman Catholic cathedral. Built in 1804 on the site of an earlier church from 1740, it is commonly referred to as la Iglesia Matriz, or “mother church,”...
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Palacio Salvo, Plaza Independencia 848, 11100 Montevideo, Uruguay
One of the most iconic landmarks of Montevideo, the Palacio Salvo stands on the Plaza Independencia. The building was intended as a hotel when it was constructed in 1928, according to a design by the Italian architect Mario Palanti, but it never...
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Plaza Independencia, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
The Plaza Independencia is the most important square in Montevideo, connecting the Ciudad Vieja and the city’s downtown. Several of the city’s most famous landmarks are located here, including the Palacio Salvo and the Teatro Solís. Dominating the...
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S/N, Buenos Aires, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
The neoclassical Teatro Solís is another one of Montevideo’s important landmarks on the Plaza Independencia. Designed by the Italian architect Carlo Zucchi, responsible for a number of important buildings in Montevideo and Buenos Aires, the...
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Mercado del Puerto, Rambla 25 de Agosto de 1825 228, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
Convenient to Montevideo’s cruise ship terminal, the Mercado del Puerto was first inaugurated in 1868 and long served as the city’s principal meat and produce market. The clock here is almost as famous as the building itself. Constructed, like the...
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Colombia 1307, 11800 Montevideo, Uruguay
Constructed from 1908 to 1925, the Legislative Palace is an impressive neoclassical edifice and perhaps the most important building in all of Uruguay. Like many of Montevideo’s most famous buildings, it was designed by an Italian architect—in this...
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Casa de Tomás Toribio, Piedras 528, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja, or Old Town, is located on a peninsula separating the Río de la Plata from the harbor. It has the orderly grid typical of many Spanish cities in the New World. Until 1829, the Ciudad Vieja was walled though today only...
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Palacio de Félix Ortiz de Taranco, 25 de Mayo 376, 11100 Montevideo, Uruguay
The Palacio Taranco, in the heart of the Ciudad Vieja, was built at the beginning of the 20th century when French influences dominated the culture of Uruguay, as well as many other Latin American countries. Completed in 1910, it was a private...
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Rambla República del Perú, 11300 Montevideo, Uruguay
Life in Montevideo is focused on its seafront, both the working port and the beaches. Few capital cities can boast as many stunning beaches, many lined by waterfront promenades. Pocitos, ten minutes from downtown, is an affluent neighborhood and...
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José L. Terra 2220, 11800 Montevideo, Uruguay
The Mercado Agrícola de Montevideo is a must-see for both architecture- and culinary-minded travelers. The majestic cast-iron structure is one of the most elegant buildings erected in the early 20th century in Montevideo. And while the Mercado del...
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Piedras 237, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
This Ciudad Vieja structure, formerly a market, houses dozens of small restaurants and is a carnivore’s delight. One location after another sells kebabs or choice cuts of the beef that Uruguay is famous for, roasted over open flames. Pick a place...
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Rambla Armenia 3667, 11300 Montevideo, Uruguay
This popular steakhouse dates back to 1994, when it was in an eponymous violet house in the Carrasco neighborhood. Six years later it moved to its current location with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the yachts on Buceo Bay. Its specialty...
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Ituzaingó 1447, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
The tiny Café Brasilero (it measures less than 56 square meters) has played a large role in Montevideo’s cultural life. This Ciudad Vieja establishment is the city’s oldest café, having been founded in 1877. The walls are decorated with...
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Buenos Aires 652, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
Rara Avis is located near the Teatro Solís, making it a popular fine dining option with the pre–theater crowd. The spirit of the theater pervades the restaurant as well, with its air of drama and elegance. The restaurant has three separate spaces:...
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Bacacay, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
The opening of this restaurant in 1994 in the Ciudad Vieja was the moment that marked the reemergence of the neighborhood as a dining and nightlife destination. Located in a historic 1844 building, the interiors are coolly contemporary. The...
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This small boutique in the Ciudad Vieja has a beautifully curated selection of women's clothing by local designers. If you want an item you could only find in Montevideo, Bandolera has some unique choices.
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The historic Mercado de la Abundancia, built in 1836, is Montevideo’s oldest market. In 1996, the building was renovated and reborn as a crafts market and also houses a tango school, with performances in the evenings and on the weekends. There are...
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José Ellauri 350, 11300 Montevideo, Uruguay
The Punta Carretas neighborhood is home to the Parque Rodó, a stretch of the waterfront Rambla, and one of Montevideo’s more unusual shopping malls. Punta Carretas Shopping is located inside a former women’s prison. There’s a selection of familiar...
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Dr Tristán Narvaja 1545, 11200 Montevideo, Uruguay
If you are in Montevideo on a Sunday, the Feria Tristán Narvaja is one of the city’s most popular flea markets where shoppers with sharp eyes can pick up some rare finds. You’ll find the market on Calle Dr. Tristán Narvaja in the Cordón...
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esquina, 18 - Baupres & 30 - Las Focas, 20100 Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
On February 2, residents of eastern South America celebrate Yemanjá, the African goddess of the sea. By late afternoon Punta’s beaches are crammed with thousands of worshippers dressed in white and blue. Some burn candles in the sand as others...
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Mar Mediterraneo, 20003 Punta Ballena, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
Punta del Este is the go-to summer vacation spot for the elite from Buenos Aires and beyond. In addition to casinos and mega yachts, you’ll find distinctive architecture, secluded beaches, and a thriving local art scene. Sculptor and painter...
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Latin America
Modern design defines Playa Vik José Ignacio, a new beachfront retreat 12 miles northeast of Punta del Este. Six casas surround a central glass-and-titanium building designed by Uruguayan architect Carlos Ott. Enjoy soaking tubs made of beech wood...
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Punta del Este, Maldonado Department, Uruguay
I spent ten days on my cousin's ranch right outside of Punta del Este. It's amazing how different the center of Punta del Este and the campo are. The views were amazing and very calming.
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70000 Colonia del Sacramento, Colonia Department, Uruguay
only a boat ride away from buenos aires, but colonia feels like a different world in a different era. what an incredible change of pace!
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Uruguay
Our day started by renting mopeds at a storefront in the sleepy antique town of Colonia. We received blatant instructions, in English and Spanish, not to leave the center of town on the mopeds. After riding an hour directly out of town, not only...
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Montevideo, Montevideo Department, Uruguay
Walking around Montevideo, Uruguay I was amazed at the amount and creativity of the stencil bombs. As a Sta r Wars geek, I particularly enjoyed the R2D2 stencil. Living in Los Angeles, I am accustomed to seeing graffiti everywhere, but I wasn't...
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Barrio Histórico, Col Del Sacramento, Departamento de Colonia, Uruguay
If I were sailing into Colonia, Uruguay, I'd be okay with this being the first thing I saw. There's something about lanterns that just makes me feel like I'm home.
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Luis E. Schickendantz, 20402 José Ignacio, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
Posada del Faro is one of my go-to places. I’ve been five times now and each time it is like coming back home. It’s a small place and one of the few hotels in Jose Ignacio. Just a handful of rooms, it books up early and often, and nearly...
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José Ignacio, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
On the beach in Jose Ignacio
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Francis Mallmann's El Garzon, restaurant and hotel
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Rambla Gral. Artigas 650, 20100 Punta del Este, Uruguay
It was in Punta del Este, Uruguay. A great place to enjoy your holidays
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Latin America
Cabo Polonio is a backpackers heaven. A small town with minimal electricity and no roads that requires a full adventure in jeep to arrive, this tiny Uruguayan town in picture perfect. Houses covered in colorful murals. Horses and chickens...
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De San Francisco, 70000 Col Del Sacramento, Departamento de Colonia, Uruguay
First here's a TIP...hop on the fast ferry and make sure you know what time it really is in Uruguay. They were an hour ahead of Buenos Aires so we and many others missed our return ferry ha. Quaint picturesque little town in Uruguay. Spent a...
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20401 Garzón, Maldonado Department, Uruguay
A 150-year-old general store is the unlikely setting for a five-room guesthouse owned by Argentina’s premier chef. Francis Mallmann grills his signature butterfly brotola whitefish on an open-flame infiernillo (“little hell”) stove. Savor it...
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70000 Colonia del Sacramento, Colonia Department, Uruguay
The coastal town of Colonia, Uruguay, is a ferry ride away from Buenos Aires, Argentina, and an easy day trip for travelers. It is the oldest town in Uruguay and settled by the Portuguese in 1680. Enjoy a stroll through the town to visit local...
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The last thing I expected to find in the tiny village of Garzón was a design store worthy of NYC. Big, brightly colored statues of penguins wearing water bottles strapped to their backs lured me to the door of Alium Design Studio. The owners,...
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Península, 20100 Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
Finca Narbona is a bit hidden, but then most great restaurants are. To arrive, you must take the gravel road that locals use during the high-season instead of the congested seaside highway. A small wooden area directs drivers down another dirt...
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Calle de Los Cisnes, 20402 José Ignacio, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
La Huella may be the world's best beach restaurant. Tucked amidst the dunes of Playa Brava, the laidback restaurant is one of the few that stays open year-round in Jose Ignacio. Since opening 11 years ago, La Huella has attracted both locals and...
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November 21st, 2012 We made our way to Estancia Tierra Santa after a couple of nights in Buenos Aires. Taking the ferry (Buquebus) to Colonia and then renting a car and driving nearly to Carmelo, Uruguay. Then it was back roads and a hand-drawn...
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Barrio Histórico, Col Del Sacramento, Departamento de Colonia, Uruguay
A day or overnight trip to Colonia Del Sacramento in Uruguay is a great way to spend your time, if you have some free when you are in Buenos Aires. The boat ride over was quick and entertaining, as there were a group of musicians travelling as...
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Los Nogales, 70000 Col Del Sacramento, Departamento de Colonia, Uruguay
Amazing sunset
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esquina, 18 - Baupres & 30 - Las Focas, 20100 Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
Mario Irarrázabal's Monumento de los Dedos sticks up through the sandy Atlantic beaches in Punta del Este.
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Carlos Páez Vilaró, 20003 Punta Ballena, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
Beautiful frescos painted onto the side of the Carlos Paez Vilaro's studio-turned-hotel in Punta Ballena.
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Carmelo, Colonia Department, Uruguay
Just $2 buys a freshly made, oozy, melty, outrageously delicious "chivito" sandwich at a food truck in Uruguay. It's a kitchen-sink style concoction which includes beef, egg, cheese, and veggies, all heated together like a panini. Mmm.
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Piedras 234, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
The Ciudad Viejo neighborhood of Montevideo, Uruguay is a veritable ghost town on weekends--making a stroll through its streets an enchantment that recalls bits of Havana, Paris and New Orleans, and is so unknown by most travelers that it makes it...
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Camino La Granja, 12600 Montevideo, Uruguay
The place is not easy to find as there are no signs directing you to it. I came upon the cheese shop while driving from Montevideo to Colonia. You can sample, buy and take home packed queso/ cheese, honey, wine, dulce de leche & more. The owner,...
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Ciudad Vieja, 11000 Montevideo, Montevideo Department, Uruguay
The capital of Uruguay boasts gorgeous colonial architecture and a real sense of history. No place is better to see this than in Ciudad Vieja district, a paradise for antique-lovers. I went gaga for all the intricate details of the old colonial...
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Uruguai, Calle de Los Cisnes, 20402 José Ignacio, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
It’s hard to know where to look as every inch of this café-cum-boutique is eye-candy for the design-obsessed. The perfectly curated mix of midcentury modern furniture and quirky home accessories feels like your stylish friend’s living room....
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Emilio Sader s/n – Parada 2 –, Emilio Sader, 20100 Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
The marina in Punta del Este is a mixture of luxury yachts and humble fishing boats, and, depending on the season, beautiful people milling around the restaurants and nightclubs. Catch a morning boat charter here to Isla de los Lobos, a small...
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esquina, 18 - Baupres & 30 - Las Focas, 20100 Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
One of my favorite ways to explore a new city is to street food forage my way through it. Oddly, in affluent Punta del Este, Uruguay one of the most satisfying bites I came across was the humble traditional chivito sandwich. Consisting of thinly...
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Cno. C. Egusquiza y Paso del Barranco, 20400 Punta del Este, Uruguay
Brazilian hotelier Rogerio Fasano took a gamble when he built Fasano Punta del Este 12 miles inland from Uruguay’s popular beaches. When guests enter the gates to the 1,200-acre property, they see cattle and horses grazing on expanses of...
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Bartolomé Mitre 1386, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
A lovely spot to stumble upon on the edge of the old part of Montevideo. The Bouza Tempranillo wine from Uruguay was surprisingly impressive and the food is divine. Homemade pastas, grilled meat, fish and fresh salads. Well worth a visit. Try and...
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Bartolomé Mitre 1364 & Sarandí, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
The Hotel Palacio, on the edge of Montevideo's old city, is not for those looking for luxury. It is an older hotel and the rooms are basic. It is however a beautiful, albeit tired, throwback to the days of cage elevators crafted from wrought iron...
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Ruta Nacional Nº 12 Km. 3.5, Laguna del Sauce,, Punta Ballena, 20003 Las Cumbres, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
Hotel Las Cumbres is a lovely retreat up in the hills overlooking Punta del Este in the distance. The lodge offers a hideaway from the bustle of resort town Este and is the perfect place to hole up for a few days. The onsite spa offers body...
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Ituzaingó 232, 70000 Col Del Sacramento, Departamento de Colonia, Uruguay
The Posada Don Antonio is just a few blocks away from the heart of Colonia's historic district on a lovely, leafy, cobblestone side street. The Superior rooms are spacious and an ample breakfast is included each morning.
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De San Francisco, 70000 Col Del Sacramento, Departamento de Colonia, Uruguay
November 24th, 2012 I am always seeking out UNSECO World Heritage sites. I also love walking and find myself drawn to trails, pedestrian zones, or any route I can do on my own two feet. The great thing about Colonia is that is is very accessible...
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Zorrilla de San Martin 494, 37000 Carmelo, Departamento de Colonia, Uruguay
The UNESCO World Heritage town of Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, is just a one-hour ferry ride from Buenos Aires. From the ferry landing, drive another hour to Carmelo, where the lodge at Finca Narbona makes a great base for exploring the wine...
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Termas del Arapey Salto Termas del Arapey, Termas del Arapey, Departamento de Salto, Uruguay
Bici en arapey
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This may be one of the most picturesque stretches of road I've seen. Dramatic stands of soaring eucalyptus trees line the road along the vineyards outside Carmelo -- Uruguay's top wine region. Lots of great vineyards, excellent wines, (especially...
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21, 70100 Carmelo, Departamento de Colonia, Uruguay
Along the cool banks of the muddy Rio de la Plata is the wine region of Carmelo, Uruguay’s top wine region. All the best Uruguayan vintners are here, including Finca Narbona. Restored to turn of the century newness, Narbona Wine Lodge is like a...
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Colonia Esterella, Colonia Department, Uruguay
I’m not a huge Four Seasons fan for international trips — I prefer more unique hotels that reflect the character of each locale — but in a pinch for a room at the last minute in Carmelo, I booked a couple of nights at the Four Seasons Carmelo in...
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Pueblo Garzon is a one-horse….actually a 75 horse town in the rolling green estancia country of Uruguay’s Maldonado province. It’s a gorgeous 40 minute drive inland from the jetset bohemian beach town of Jose Ignacio. The town was practically...
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Camino Sainz Martinez, 20401 Garzón, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
It was the first of March. We wanted to take horses up for a picnic in the nearby Uruguayan highlands. But the extremely nice people at the Hotel Garzon apologized, but said in clipped-English,”I’m sorry but normally we accommodate your request,...
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Details. Details. Details. It’s all in the details. And famous Argentine chef Francis Mallmann’s hideout in the small, un-developed Pueblo Garzon is dripping with it. Imagine the perfect movie set or photo shoot where every single corner, nook and...
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Calle de Los Cisnes, 20402 José Ignacio, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
If you’ve been there, you get it. The vibe. The casualness. The amazing food. The DJ spinning cool tunes at 2pm. The beautiful crowd. Jose Ignacio is an amazing beach town north about hour north of Punta del Este — which is like the Miami Beach...
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Luis E. Schickendantz, 20402 José Ignacio, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay
Posada del Faro is one of my go-to places. I’ve been five times now and each time it is like coming back home. It’s a small place and one of the few hotels in Jose Ignacio. Just a handful of rooms, it books up early and often, and nearly...
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Each time I go back to either Argentina or Uruguay I’m amazed at the variety of methods they use with cooking with fire. We’re not talking about just wood fired grills or pizza ovens, but truly unique engineering feats to draw the best of wood,...
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Sarandí 349, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
Sure, Montevideo is officially the land of the chivito—a sandwich made with beef, bacon, and sometimes even eggs and ham. If those in your party are a little more health-conscious or after a clean, modern, sleek place to eat, try Jacinto. This...
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11300 Montevideo, Montevideo Department, Uruguay
If you go to Montevideo without taking a picture with the namesake sign, I'd be surprised. So if you're looking for an extra incentive between the beach and the photo op, give Novecento a try. Sure this popular chain restaurant was actually...
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Rambla República de México 6451, 11500 Montevideo, Uruguay
I lived in Las Vegas, so I have a soft spot for casinos, despite the fact that I've never come out ahead. At least not until I visited Casino Carrasco. Okay, yes, I lost money at the slots, but considering how gorgeous this National Heritage Site...