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Two foodies in Portugal

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Portugal is a wonderful travel destination for a lover of food and wine. Anita's Feast traveled as a writer/photographer team with APTECE, Portugal's food travel association, and several regional tourist boards. Here are some of the top culinary discoveries from our journey.
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Antigo Cais de S. Roque 83, 3800-256 Aveiro, Portugal
Salpoente ("setting salt" in Portuguese), is a restaurant-cum-gallery beside Aveiro's São Roque canal. Housed in a former salt warehouse facing the salt flats of Aveiro, its rustic-elegant ambience is the setting for contemporary cuisine, with cod...
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Our day in the village of Tentúgal, near Coimbra, was a high point in our travels across Portugal. There Olga Alexandre Gonçalves Cavaleiro, owner of a local pastry shop, introduced us to pastéis de Tentúgal, a sweet made according to a 16th...
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Povoa de Varzim, Portugal
Homemakers across Portugal prepare for the Christmas season by making yummy holiday cakes called "rabanadas poveiras". At home, the cake is often made as a loaf. The recipe for these festive cakes is a simple one: leftover bread, soaked in milk...
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R. Azevedo Magalhães 314, 4430-999 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
No trip to Porto is complete without a visit to one of the wine caves of Vila Nova de Gaia, across the river from the city's historic Ribeira neighborhood. Many of the port wine lodges have been in business for centuries, and most offer tastings...
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Rua das Flores 103, 1200-015 Lisboa, Portugal
André Magalhães believes the most important culinary trend in Portual today is a return to simplicity, and he proves the point in his hole-in-the-wall Taberna da Rua das Flores in Lisbon. We enjoyed two meals at the tiny restaurant during our...
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R. de António Graça 31, 4490-471 Póvoa de Varzim, Portugal
"You are very lucky," the fellow at the beachside kiosk told us, pointing the way to Restaurante Barca. "Américo cooks the best fish in Póvoa de Varzim!" A few minutes later, we began to know what he was smiling about. For eleven years, the...
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Av. 24 de Julho 49, 1200-479 Lisboa, Portugal
Near the Tagus River is Time Out Mercado da Ribeira, a former 13th-century fish market that now houses an almanac of Lisbon’s artisanal food purveyors. Multigenerational vendors serve such Portuguese specialties as conserved Atlantic octopus and ...
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Rua Nossa Senhora da Penha - Parque S. Cristóvão, 4810-000 Guimarães, Portugal
The Penha Sanctuary overlooks Guimarães, and is easily accessed by road or cable car. Dan José, a traditional restaurant, is up there, too. Granite steps and cobble-stoned walkways make it easy to visit a hermit's grotto and take in the view...
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R. Costa Pinto 17, 2770-046 Paço de Arcos, Portugal
Casa da Dízima, a seaside restaurant in the village of Paço d’Arco, is named after a medieval harbor tax levied in tribute to the king, and occupies an atmospheric building true to its original XV century design. The food is typical Portuguese,...
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Quinta Sao Giao Sao Giao Mor Conegos, Moreira De Cónegos, Braga, 4815 Moreira de Cónegos, Portugal
It was not a great beginning: our GPS took us to a locked gate, then to an unmarked building across the road. Only the sparkle of chandeliers through an upper-story window alerted us that we had arrived at our destination: Restaurant São Gião. We...
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Muna, Bigas, 3510, Viseu, Viseu, Lordosa, 3515-775 Viseu, Portugal
This restaurant on the outskirts of Viseu features the traditional foods of Beira Alta, primarily game. Not being a fancier of most wild meats, I went with some trepidation. I need not have worried, as these folks know what they are doing! This is...
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Rua do Loreto 2, 1200-108 Lisboa, Portugal
When in Lisbon, most tourists make a beeline to Antiga Confeitaria to try its world-famous pastel de Belém. The legendary custard tart is indeed delicious, especially when dusted with a healthy dose of cinnamon, but what these...
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R. Costa Pinto 17, 2770-046 Paço de Arcos, Portugal
Azeitão, the diminutive cousin of Portugal's famous Serra da Estrela cheese, is an unpasteurized sheep's milk cheese hand-crafted at the foot of the Arrabida Mountains, south of Lisbon. Production in the regions of Setúbal, Palmela and Sesimbra...
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R. Roberto Ivens 824, 4450-279 Matosinhos, Portugal
O Gaveto, on the outskirts of Porto, has been thrilling seafood lovers for more than thirty years, and it took just one dinner there to see why. Everything on the menu is fresh and authentic. For starters, you cannot go wrong with the very popular...
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R. dos Açoutados 12, 7800-812 Beja, Portugal
This family-owned tearoom is the perfect place to try the regional doces conventuais, or conventual sweets, of Alentejo. The desserts were traditionally made by nuns in local convents. Everything is made by hand, using recipes created in the...
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3800-105 Aveiro, Portugal
This cafe right across from Aveiro's picturesque canal has a sunny terrace for enjoying a coffee. It also sells various regional products (sweet and savory), cakes and macarons. For me, though, the draw is the ice cream, innovatively based on...
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Tí'Lena is a family-style restaurant in a small stone cottage perched on the side of a mountain in Portugal's Sierra de Lousã. This intimate setting in Talasnal is ideal for experiencing the unique rural environment of the country's schist...
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Rua Limoeiro 10, 1100-001 Lisboa, Portugal
New to Fado, and deciding where to have your first listen? Eager to experience one of Portugal's signature traditions, but short on time in Lisbon--or not eager to spend tons of money and a late night out to do it? Pastel do Fado has you covered....
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"Please be at home," says Luis Magalhães, General Manager of Solplay Hotel de Apartamentos, welcoming us to Linda-a Velha, a suburb of Lisbon not far from the Tower of Belem. Arriving at Solplay after a long drive, my husband and I were delighted...