The Great Trek
Collected by Jonathan Timmerman
I hadn’t been awake for longer than a minute. I peeled back the tarp door to my room, walked out onto my deck, and leapt. It was an abrupt but purifying way to start the day. The cool, brackish water instantly defogged my mind, and my eyes...
#9B St 29, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
With more than 40 different plant species in its garden, Botanico GastroBar feels like an urban jungle. The new cafe serves excellent coffee along with homemade sugarcane rolls with anise and feta. At night, a stylish crowd comes for the globally...
NR33A, Krong Kaeb, Cambodia
A new road has made the seaside town of Kep once again a favorite weekend getaway for Phnom Penh residents and expats. Don’t leave without trying the region’s Kampot pepper–spiked crab, left, which locals enjoy at Kimly. The six-room hotel Villa...
Chamcar Bei Village (Phnom Vor), Pongteuk Commune, Damnak Chang Eur District, Phnom Vor, Cambodia
At the Vine Retreat, an eco B&B on a farm two and a half hours from Kep, guests can harvest the peppercorns the chef uses to prepare traditional Cambodian dishes like lak lok (grilled beef with onions and peppers, topped with a fried egg). From...