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Spain 2016

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Calle Laurel, 26526 Cornago, La Rioja, Spain
During the siesta time, you would never know that in a few short hours this street will be the most busy in the town; head down around 7pm to mingle with everyone taking the edge off their hunger before a very late dinner. Locals pour out onto the...
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Calle Mañueta, 8, 31001 Pamplona, Navarra, Spain
The churros here supposedly get their crispy exterior from being cooked over an ax-cut beech-wood fire. You can sample the results when the 140-year-old shop is open: only two Saturdays in June, every day during the San Fermín festival in July,...
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Carretera San Prudencio, 0 S/N, 20808 Getaria, Guipúzcoa, Spain
Aroa farm, a 10-minute walk from the middle of Getaria, is a farm unlike any other in the entire country of Spain. Jaime Burgaña and his team cultivate exotic vegetables, fruits, and herbs on this 12-acre farm. But their focus is on perfecting and...
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Potzuaga Kalea, 8, 20808 Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Txakoli. It's not as hard to say as it looks, and it's really easy to drink. This slightly fizzy white wine is unique to the Basque Country and is made (officially, at least) from the local Hondarribi varietal. Many of the bodegas in the D.O....
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Malkorbe Kalea, 5, 20808 Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Arriving to Getaria can be done by bus, but one of the most unforgettable parts of visiting this village is approaching (or exiting) it by the sidewalk that winds along the sea. Depending on the time of year, you will have endless views of a calm...
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Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Spain
A unique feature of Getaria's city streets are the grills, built into the side of buildings. The outside observer can glean that the general purpose is cooking, but seeing them in action is a different story. Fish are brought fresh from the port,...
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Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Last Summer we made a little road trip which involved fantastic beaches, lovely weather, amazing food and gorgeous landscapes. We visited the Golfe de Gascone. We started in Saint Jean de Luz. It’s a great place but it’s so full of people that it...
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Edificio Astillero, Puerto 3, 20808 Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Spain
It's scientifically proven: even if you think you don't like anchovies, when you try the Maisor anchovies from Itsas Mendi store, you are 92% likely to change your mind. Getaria is anchovy central, and this store is located right on its port. In...
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Aldamar Parkea Parkea, 6, 20808 Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Few names in fashion have the caché of Balenciaga. That's why it may come as a surprise that he is from the tiny village of Getaria. After years of contention and fighting over precious pieces, the Balenciaga Museum finally became a reality. It's...
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San Salvador Church, located in the middle of Getaria's central quarter, dates back to the 1400s. It has a curiously naval vibe to it, with a sloping floor and blue stained glass that gives the illusion of being on a vessel. A crypt nearby hides a...
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General Arnao Kalea, 4, 20808 Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Spain
“A poorly grilled turbot is a turbot that has died in vain." This is the motto that hangs in Kai Kaipe, one of the two stars in a village that really shouldn't have any. They specialize, like Elkano, in grilled fish. Locals who prefer Kai Kaipe do...
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Santa Korda Kalea, 4, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
At La Cuchara de San Telmo, on the corner of the plaza Valle Lersundi in San Sebastian, the specialties were hot pintxos, quickly prepared to order--from the menu or the specials board, or by pointing to what your neighbor was eating. This was one...
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Calle Mayor, 18, 20013 San Sebastián, Guipúzcoa, Spain
Everyone knows a pintxo hop is a must-do in San Sebastián. What everyone doesn't know is that Atari Gastroteka, located in the shadows of the old town's beautiful Santa Maria church, is the perfect last stop on the tour. Their artisan foie is...
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Zabaleta Kalea, 6, 20002 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
La Gintonería, in the less-traversed neighborhood of Gros, could very well be the best gin-tonic in San Sebastián. With two shelves laden with premium and hard-to-find gins, it's a gintonaholic's dream. They have a selection of premium tonics and...
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San Bartolome Kalea, 35, 20007 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
La Madame is one of the most forward-facing dining spots in San Sebastián. It's one of the only place in the city where you can find well-executed fusion cuisine, with touches of American, Japanese, French and Basque cuisine and perhaps THE only...
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Paseo, República Argentina Kalea, 4, 20004 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Okay, okay Maria Cristina—you've got it all. This hotel is perfectly situated next to the Old Part, overlooking the river that winds through San Sebastián. Recently given a modernizing facelift, the rooms are decked out in turn of the century...
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Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 48, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Cote, apart from dishing up delicious gin-tonics and (gasp!) frozen daiquiris, is one of those spots to see and be seen. There's always ambience, even midweek, and the bartenders are friendly. And I'm not just saying that because of their habit of...
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Alameda del Blvd, 5, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
What happens in the Museo del Whisky stays in the Museo del Whisky. And in this institution of Donosti, you never know what will happen. With a wild selection of whiskeys (as the name suggests) and an equally impressive gamut of cocktails, Museo...
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Del Boulevard Aldapa, 27, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
I don't want to use the word overrated. Many people rave about Coctelería Dickens, but I stopped going there after I paid five euros for a coffee. However, those who are loyal to the bar manage to see past the exorbitant prices to the man behind...
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Calle de Etorbidea Nafarroa, 69, 20100 Errenteria, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Ask any barman in San Sebastián who he looks up to, and the answer is likely to be Patxi Troitiño. And where is this Patxi? On the outskirts of San Sebastián, in the municipality of Errenteria, tending is tiny bar, Bar Stick. He'll also be giving...
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Plaza Constitución, 5, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Most of the great cocktails and gin-tonics of the city don't come with a view. When you just have to be sitting outside, enjoying the setting sun and the evening ambience, Gott is a good bet. Discriminating tastes will find a wide variety of...
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Igeldo Ibilbidea, 187, 20008 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
It was raining when we arrived in Donostia-San Sebastian, but the skies cleared on our second day, and we rode the funicular railway up Mount Igueldo to take in the view back on the city, La Concha Bay, and the empty beach. The "low" travel season...
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Zurríola Hiribidea, 24, 20002 San Sebastián, Guipúzcoa, Gipuzkoa, Spain
San Sebastián, for many, is a surf town. Pukas is your one-stop shop for everything from surf lessons, bikinis, gear, and cool souvenirs with a local twist, like their trademark 'Surfing the Basque Country' t-shirts.
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Euskal Herria Kalea, 7, 20003 San Sebastián, Guipúzcoa, Spain
January 20. The favorite day of residents of San Sebastián. A day that nearly always portends cold, rain, and discomfort. It's the Day of San Sebastián, also known as the Tamborrada. Imagine an entire town turning up at the main square at...
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Mount Ulia, 20013, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Most visitors never cross the river from the Old Part, and the vast majority overlook what has to be one of the most beautiful hikes from here to California. At the edge of Gros, a trail heads up some stairs (at the end of Calle San Francisco) and...
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Plaza Zuloaga, 1, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Museo San Telmo is a must-see for any art or culture-phile during a visit to San Sebastián. The newly renovated museum's architecture alone makes for fascinating viewing, and there are sections on Basque anthropology as well as revolving...
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Kalea Isla de Santa Clara, 2, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
From May to August, a ferry runs from the port of San Sebastián to the island that sits serenely in the middle of the Concha Bay. The island is quiet, isolated, and empty. There is a café on the island with a mysterious timetable, and a lighthouse...
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Bretxa Plaza, 3, 20003 San Sebastián, Guipúzcoa, Spain
La Bretxa shopping center houses the usual trappings of a modern-day shopping mall, but below ground one can find the city's largest and best market for the fruits of the sea. Cold, wet and crowded, this is the spot where you will find both...
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Calle de Nagusia, 96, 20115 Astigarraga, Guipúzcoa, Spain
December to May is cider season in the Basque Country. Basque cider is quite different (drier, more bitter) than its American and English counterparts. The real magic in Basque cider, however, happens when it is consumed. Groups of friends head in...
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Aldura Gunea Aldea, 20, 20100 Errenteria, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Molecular and sustainable Basque cuisine at 2-Michelin starred restaurant Mugaritz. Modern farm house, garden, and sheep frolicking about make the ethereal setting one-of-a-kind.