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Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
As anxiety from the 2010 earthquake ebbs, Chile is rebuilding its capital bigger and better. Such creative enclaves as Barrio Italia have become hives for galleries and design studios, and the wineries just outside Santiago are turning more heads...
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Parque Forestal, Maipú, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Parque Forestal is Santiago's lung and central park. Created for the first centennial celebration in 1910, the park has become an iconic area of the city with elegant residential apartment buildings along the perimeter. One of the most enjoyable...
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Antonia López de Bello 743, Recoleta, Región Metropolitana, Chile
In the center of Santiago, La Vega Central market dates back over 100 years with its humble origins as a few produce stalls. Today, it sprawls over several city blocks with friendly vendors hawking the freshest seasonal produce from Chile's...
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Moneda S/N, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
The ornate, neoclassical government palace, headquarters for the President's offices, was originally constructed in the late 18th century as the country's mint. During the 1973 military coup, La Moneda was nearly destroyed. The ceremonious...
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Av. Brasil 726, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Twice a day, the city's ovens fire up to bake the dimpled "hallullas" and crunchy "marraquetas" (Chile's folded baguette). The air fills with a warm, yeasty smell and Chileans patiently wait to get their freshly baked bread for the breakfast...
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Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
Santiago has South America's most extensive metro with five lines, nearly 65 miles of track, and 108 stations--and plans to add new lines and stations continue. The metro opened in 1975 and continues to be the best method to travel across the...
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Esperanza 1388, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Chileans still, thankfully, eat with the seasons and crave different fruits throughout the year. In fact, during any given week, there are 400 fresh markets ("ferias"), in Santiago along with countless neighborhood "verdulerias" and fruit carts...
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Santiago is within striking distance of half a dozen wine valleys in Chile and as the capital, has access to all the wines being made in-country. While you can sip away in wine bars like Bocanariz, or stock up at stores like Santiago Wine Club and...
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Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
Chile's capital is now a happening venue drawing big names for concerts year-round from '80s legends (KC & the Sunshine Band, Madonna) to Beyoncé and Latin performers. Every year Lollapalooza plays in the sprawling Parque O'Higgins in late March...
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San Pablo, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
If you’re aiming to see what last night’s catch looked like before it became your supper, head to Santiago’s Mercado Central, where every edible sea creature is up for sale. As boisterous as a stock market, the seafood exchange...
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Av. Pedro de Valdivia 47, Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Chilean Pisco Sours are a little different than their Peruvian neighbor. They are downed with the same "gusto" but the ingredients, and flavor, lead to a very different tasting drink. The pisco (grape brandy) is made from different grapes along...
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This acclaimed ice cream parlor with more than 15 locations (most Santiago malls have one) dishes out every imaginable flavor. Regulars crave dulce de leche, lifted from the namesake caramel dessert. Or try the Chilean classic called café...
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Monjitas 506, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
coffee in Santiago is even worse than in Paris (if that can even be possible?) but lucky for picky people like me, Wonderful cafe makes a very respectable + smooth cappuccino. It comes with latte art as well. Light lunches and other foods (i.e....
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Merced 391, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Ópera is the only gourmet, white tablecloth dining experience in the Lastarria neighborhood. Location, location, location. On an iconic corner with large picture glass windows, the hum of the city quietly blurs by with the illuminated...
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Amanda Labarca 102, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Just a block away from the Palacio de la Moneda, the Chilean Government Palace, this culinary oasis offers tasty treats and killer coffee in a downtown setting. Known for its breakfasts, burgers, tea time, and heady java, you can rub elbows with...
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Huérfanos 769, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
"Café con piernas", or coffee with legs is an institution in downtown Santiago. Founded originally as Italian-style espresso bars decades ago, bar maidens serve steaming cups of frothy "cortados," pumped out by macho men manning the coffee...
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Av. Virginia Subercaseaux 210, Pirque, Región Metropolitana, Chile
As an avid wine lover, I make it a point to visit various wine regions around the world. When I came across a place like Concha y Toro, and their sprawling caves of wine, I couldn't help but feel that I had stumbled upon a little slice of heaven....
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Maipo, Buin, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
As creepy as these were, these random abandoned buildings along a strangely empty dirt road in the mountains, they were oddly beautiful against the clear blue skies.
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Nueva Tajamar 481, Las Condes, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Taking a stroll through the vineyard of renowned Concha y Toro
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This poor, compact, city car was not designed to travel over the dirt tracks that we made it travel in Cajon de Maipo, in the Andes of Chile. It was a trooper though! And while the rental company employees gave me some pretty strange looks when I...
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Isla de Maipo, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
There is nothing like visiting central Chile during the wine harvest season. The DeMartino family has a 70-year history producing fine wines in this beautiful, lush region. They manage to grow their crop organically, and are the first winery in...
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Avenida Vitacura 5250 of. 304, Vitacura, Región Metropolitana, Chile
While sitting at dinner one night in Santiago with my brother, it occurred to us that we should try to ski and snowboard the Andes while we were there for a few days. A quick ask at our hostel, and we were set up for the ultimate day trip,...
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Pirque, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
The Concha y Toro winery, located in Pirque, in the Maipo Valley, 45 minutes outside of Santiago, has steadily been making wine since it was originally established back in 1883. Upon arriving, visitors are taken on a fantastic tour of the grounds....
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Machalí, O'Higgins Region, Chile
A two-and-a-half-hour drive (or 45-minute helicopter ride) from Santiago, Puma Lodge has been a heli-skiing headquarters since it opened in 2011. First Tracks Puma’s guests have exclusive access to nearly 2,000 square miles of terrain in the...
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Rosario, Rengo, Región del Libertador Gral. Bernardo O’Higgins, Chile
This unassuming restaurant off the Route 5 (Panamerican Highway) South got started in 1947 and became famous among the truckers who followed the route. In 2008, the original restaurant, which has haphazardly grown, burnt to the ground and was...
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Rancagua, O'Higgins Region, Chile
The birthplace of the Chilean rodeo was in the Central Valley, the heartland of Chile. The participants are "huasos," Chilean cowboys who dress for the rodeos with elegant ponchos or chamantos, carved wooden stir-ups, silver spurs, and...
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Doñihue, O'Higgins Region, Chile
Chamantos are ornate silk ponchos that the Chilean "huasos," cowboys, adorn for the rodeos that take place in Chile's central valley from September to April each year. The origin of this weaving tradition dates back to almost two hundred years ago...
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Located in the hills of the western Cachapoal wine valley, on the border with Colchagua, Alexdandre Vik has placed his bets on the terroir to be the birthplace of his stellar wine, VIK. Vik is one of the most ambitious wine projects in South...
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KM 4 - Apalta Colchagua, Santa Cruz, Región del Libertador Gral. Bernardo O’Higgins, Chile
Located just outside of Santa Cruz in the heart of the Colchagua Valley, Clos Apalta Residence (formerly Lapostolle Residence) is known for its premium Chilean wine. In 2005, the Marnier family opened the stunning property on a steep...
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Santa Cruz, O'Higgins Region, Chile
Located 100 miles south of Santiago, the Colchagua Valley has in the past decade become one of Chile's wine hotbeds for the production of robust red wines. Stretching from the Andean foothills in the east through the coastal mountains to west,...
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Sewell, Machalí, O'Higgins Region, Chile
About 40 miles east of the provincial city of Rancagua up in the Andes is El Teniente, the largest underground copper mine in the world. The now abandoned mining town of Sewell, located high in the mountains, was built in the early 20th century...
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Santa Cruz, O'Higgins Region, Chile
Widely regarded as Chile's pioneer premium winery, the first to export higher quality wines from Chile nearly two decades ago, Montes is synonymous with the Colchagua Valley. Located in the heart of the micro appellation Apata where its finest...
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Although I recommend hitting up the wine country (I've heard amazing things), if you don't have the time to do so, Bocanariz is a great alternative. We were able to taste some really great Chilean wines while noshing of delicious fare. The...
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Matucana 501, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
There’s something within these walls—perhaps simply the silence—that helps visitors imagine the real-world horrors that once took place in Chile. A visit to Santiago’s Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos is a trip...
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On a typical corner in historic Barrio Yungay, Boulevard Lavaud, colloquially known as Peluquería Francesa, is a quirky café-restobar taking you back to another era. Sitting above the old barber shop, where older men in the "barrio" still come to...
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Parque Metropolitano de Calle - Dominica, Recoleta, Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Floating over 2,500 feet above Santiago is the gleaming white statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción atop Cerro San Cristóbal, St. Christopher's Hill—the highest point in the capital that is not the Andes. One of the most fun, and...
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Las Condes, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
Pueblito Los Dominicos, an artisan village in eastern Santiago, is named after the church bearing the same name. This quaint center offers many quality handicrafts, from leather goods to lapis jewelry, Mapuche silver, and textiles. The setting is...
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Región Metropolitana CL - Av Libertador Bernardo O'Higgins, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Founded in 1879, Confitería Torres is Santiago's oldest restaurant still functioning, and a popular lunch destination. Housed in the Palacio Íñiguez on the stately Alameda avenue, the restaurant was saved from closing nearly a decade ago and...
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Providencia, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
This beautiful fountain in Santiago is nestled in a long park in Providencia that follows the Mapocho River with views of towering San Cristóbal hill. It touts a sophisticated timing system to create a series of elegant arcs with water. At night,...
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Av. Providencia 2251, 49 49, Providencia, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
“Chile has nearly 4,000 miles of coast, one of the most arid deserts on earth, and mountains that climb to 22,000 feet. Imagine the diversity,” marvels Rodolfo Guzman. The chef behind Santiago’s restaurant Borago is on a mission to promote his...
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Santiago, Lo Barnechea, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Want to try hearty, rustic specialties that are considered true Chilean cooking? Look no further. This sprawling place on the outskirts of the city, in the foothills of the Andes, is a winner. Agustina Gómez de Olivares (aka Doña Tina), now 72,...
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Agustinas 794, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Santiago's municipal theater and opera house is the most prestigious venue for stage performing arts in the city. Home to the Santiago Philharmonic and Santiago Ballet, the theater hosts many concerts, operas, and ballets throughout the year in...
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Av Vitacura 4562, Vitacura, Región Metropolitana, Chile
The privately owned "Fashion Museum" is one of those quirky places in Santiago that is fun--especially if you have a love for fashion. Founded by the Yarur Bascuñán family, one of the textile moguls in Chile in the early 20th century, the museum's...
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Loreto 6, Recoleta, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Want to get out and explore the capital and its parks and many bicycle paths by bike? Head to La Bicicleta Verde, on the corner of Loreto bridge and Santa María next to the Mapocho River. Rent a comfortable cruiser to bike around town or sign up...
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Avenida Italia, Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile
the Chilean capital (much like Toronto) doesn't immediately endear itself. Its ugly, flat, spread out and traffic is mad. Also like my hometown it takes some research and good old fashioned legwork to discover it's charms. For me the Barrio Italia...
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Av. Italia 1693, Santiago, Ñuñoa, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Barrio Italia is full of antiques and furniture dealers. Taller Sofia has a hodge podge of vintage furniture and home decor ranging from porcelain teapots to scales, wooden hutches, and other forgotten treasures. Go with patience and a good eye as...
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Thor Heyerdal 2105, Santiago, Vitacura, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Founded in 2003 by Claudia Betanqort and Nano Pulgar, Walka Studio has been trailblazing in artisan jewelry-making for a decade. Incorporating uniquely Chilean noble materials like copper, crin (horse hair) and cow's horn, they have merged...
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local F2 - Merced 346, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Chilean society is quite conservative by many standards with the younger generations finally starting to cut loose. Get more playful. Be expressive. US expat Jayne Morgan saw the opportunity to fill the niche for erotic toys in the capital,...
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Hall Central brings together many Chilean independent designer labels under one roof to showcase their work in Barrio Lastarria. In addition to individual collections, they also have their own HC label. Merced 346, Barrio Lastarria Phone: 56 (2)...
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Santiago, Providencia, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
The Argentine fashion label, Lupe, was much-awaited by Santiago fashionistas with its arrival in Barrio Italia, bringing hip, sleek fashion to the other side of the Andes. With a laid-back but polished look of urban cool, the seasonal collections...
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Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
Chilean designer Carlos Perez got his start making shirts nearly three decades ago and still has a cult following at this Atelier on the shady street in Barrio Lastarria. Beautifully sewn men's shirts and a limited amount of women's apparel...
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Avenida Italia, Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile
With a nod to the neighborhood’s tradition of carpentry, this furniture store sells chairs, tables, bowls, and wall hooks made of Chilean lenga wood, crafted with clean, modern lines and smooth finishes. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.
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Alonso de Córdova 2437, Vitacura, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Chile's premier foodie market is akin to Dean & Deluca in the Southern Cone. A total trip for your senses, with housemade chocolate, beautiful presentations of spices, and native ingredients like Merkén or salt from the Atacama desert. Chilled...
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Isidora Goyenechea 3000, Las Condes, Región Metropolitana, Chile
The Santiago outpost of Lima's most famous Nikkei restaurant (Peruvian-Japanese fusion), Osaka has been a smash hit since it opened in the W Santiago. Cosmopolitan, chic and with sensational sushi, come with an appetite as you try sushi with a...
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Antonio Bellet 201, Santiago, Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile
While some say Gastón Acurio’s flagship restaurant may have lost ground to Virgilio Martinez’s Central, Acurio has been instrumental in putting Lima on the map as South America’s culinary capital and has promoted its cuisine...
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Alonso de Córdova 2417, Vitacura, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Located in the chic, affluent area of Vitacura near Nueva Costanera, Europeo delivers a flawless fine dining experience in Santiago. The menu, overseen by executive chef Francisco Mandiola, incorporates European technique with seasonal...
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Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
The Plaza in downtown Santiago, or El Centro, offers striking juxtapositions of old and new. Neoclassical facades appear in the rectilinear glass towers of late 20th century skyscrapers. Children play in the fountain and men of all ages play chess...
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Santiago, La Pintana, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Founded in 1540, Santiago's palm-shaded "Plaza de Armas" remains the city's social hub. Any time of the day, any day of the week there's always something happening there. Surrounded by the neoclassical facades of the city's most important...
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Bandera 347, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Every day 2,000 empanadas are freshly made at this historic food landmark on the corner of Bandera and Huérfanos in El Centro. Santiaguinos pop in for a gooey fried cheese empanada slathered in hot chili sauce, piping hot. Stand in at the counter...
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Av. Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins 933, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Chilean "completos" are hot dogs piled high with the works--usually mashed avocado, chopped tomato, optional sauerkraut, and an obscene amount of mayo (maybe 1/3 cup). Actually, eating them is a feat of gravity without the toppings winding up on...
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Bandera 361, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Just off the iconic Plaza de Armas, the main square, housed in the old customs building, is the Museum of Pre-Columbian art. The museum has a solid collection of Latin American art and history and an extensive collection of ceramics and pottery....
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Estación Central - Av Libertador Bernardo O'Higgins 3349, Santiago, Estación Central, Región Metropolitana, Chile
The Planetario of Santiago will help you learn something new about the universe and the skies and stars of The City, without escaping from the lights of the capital. An oval roof theater serves as the canvas for this rotating projector that...
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Casablanca, Valparaiso Region, Chile
William Cole left corporate life in the United States and headed south to invest his earnings in the Casablanca Valley. The vineyard is an 80 km (49 miles) drive from Santiago and worth the visit to experience spectacular views, excellent food and...
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Fundo el Rosario, Casablanca, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
In the lush countryside outside of Santiago in Casablanca lies Matetic Vineyards, Chile’s largest fully organic and biodynamic winery. Matetic is a full-service experience, where you can stay in a gorgeous property on-site or come for a day tour...
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Monte Alegre 149, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
Built in the 1920s by a Croatian businessman, Palacio Astoreca underwent two years of refurbishment and restoration before opening its doors as a boutique hotel in 2012. The work was carried out to a meticulous degree, maintaining the original...
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352 - Templeman, Valparaíso, Valparaiso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
Pasta e Vino is often credited with starting Valparaíso's gastronomic revival nearly a decade ago. It started as a tiny restaurant with a group of tables off a colorful "pasaje," or side street in the port. Word spread, it took months to get a...
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Zapallar, Valparaiso Region, Chile
Located adjacent to a tiny wharf in the posh beach enclave of Zapallar, Chiringuito is about the view and simply prepared Chilean seafood with little pretense. Zapallar is a refuge for the moneyed elite of Santiago and a Pacific cove surrounded by...
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Nestled in a chilly nook of Western Casablanca, Casas del Bosque has become one of the anchor wineries in the coastal region. While the operation has grown from its beginnings in 1993, the focus remains dedicated to showing the varied terroir...
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Cerro Alegre, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
One of the delights of Valparaíso is exploring the colorful hillsides that ramble down towards the sea. Take the century-old funicular elevators Ascensor Concepción (Turri) or El Peral near the main plaza, constructed between 1883 and 1911. Once...
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Ricardo de Ferrari 692, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
The poet Pablo Neruda redefined the city with hisOde to Valparaíso, calling it “the patched bow of a small courageous ship.” Today, visitors can tour his home, known as La Sebastiana. The building is now a museum with one of the city’s finest gift...
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Pedro Montt 2078, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
by Steven Bodzin Valparaiso has the world’s biggest concentration of hillside railways, known locally as ascensores, or elevators. Victorian developers built 30 of them to shuttle residents and their goods up and down the city’s steep coastal...
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Cochrane 102, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
Chile’s 4,000-milecoastline provides a bounty of seafood. At Los Porteños, trypastel de jaiba, crab served in a casserole with bread crumbs and cream.—Steven Bodzin 56/(0) 32-225-1915. This appeared in the November/December 2011 issue.
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Zapallar, Valparaiso Region, Chile
Zapallar is a decidedly untouristy beach town about two hours northwest of Santiago. Unlike the larger and more well-known Viña del Mar and its suburbs, Zapallar has no major hotels, no high rises, and no busy streets. Rather, Zapallar is the...
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Serrano 567, Valparaíso, Región de Valparaíso, Chile
If during your travels you find yourself in Valparaíso, reserve an extra day or two to check out its nearby sister city, Viña del Mar. Just 20 minutes up the coast, this small beach town is a popular vacation destination for Chileans, and a great...
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Concón, Valparaiso Region, Chile
North of the garden resort city of Viña del Mar along the scenic coastal highway, affluent Chilean families have vacationed in Concon for generations. Casadoca is a posh boutique hotel that feels more like visiting a wealthy friend on the coast...
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Concón, Valparaiso Region, Chile
One of the most beloved traditions on the central Chilean coast is to stop for empanadas in the coastal village of Concón. Along the main drag, small mom-and-pop restaurants make crunchy, fried empanadas with a variety of fillings, notably the...
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Valparaíso, Valparaiso Region, Chile
Want to feel like a kid in a candy store again? You can—in Valparaiso. La Dulceria brings back the colors and sweetness of handmade sweets to Chile's cheery port on Cerro Alegre. Owner Ángela Alfageme learned and honed her craft in Barcelona...
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Valparaíso, Valparaiso Region, Chile
Casa Higueras was the first true boutique hotel to arrive in culturally captivating Valparaiso, renovating a 1930s mansion into a posh boutique hotel. Perched atop Cerro Alegre with 20 spacious rooms (many with ocean-view terraces) the decor is...
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Isla Negra, El Quisco, Valparaiso Region, Chile
Nobel prize–winning poet Pablo Neruda built one of his three houses in the tiny village of Isla Negra on the rocky coast north of the port of San Antonio in 1939. During his life, the house grew somewhat organically as he decorated with his whims...
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Rosal 386, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Chilean wine is having a moment, with vintners discovering the myriad terroirs in the country spanning over 10 latitudes from the Pacific to the Andes--with over two dozen grape varietals. Many of the most avant-garde projects are small producers...
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This craft store is a treasure trove for those looking for unique pieces made by artisans from different regions of Chile, many with a contemporary flare. The store has a wide array of ceramic crockery, hand-carved wooden bowls from the south,...
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Av. Pedro de Valdivia 210, Providencia, Santiago de Chile, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Ask any Santiaguino the best sandwich they've ever had and they will wax on about el lomito. Marinated pork slow-roasted, shaved, and piled high onto a sandwich with copious amounts of mashed avocado, homemade mayo, and tomato slices--beer on the...
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Merced 562, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
Catedral is part of the trio of Café del Opera (great coffee, lunch, ice cream) and the high-end gourmet restaurant Opera. The third piece is Catedral, located on the second floor and roof of the historic building sprawling over the corner of José...
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In 1998, former Chilean dictator Augusto Pinochet was arrested in England at The London Clinic. A month later, satirical, left-leaning newspaper The Clinic was born. The newspaper’s namesake bar in the Lastarria area, housed in a gorgeous Baroque...
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Coronel Santiago Bueras 188, Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile
A simple and stylish hotel in a converted 1920s townhouse, Lastarria Boutique Hotel opened in 2011 on a sleepy corner of its namesake Santiago neighborhood. The 14 bedrooms have an old-school feel with classic furniture and creaky parquet floors....
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This hipster and bohemian-worthy neighborhood was my home in Santiago. Two steps from my apartment door led me to a street filled with coffee shops, restaurants and local street venders trying to sell their products. My first night in Lastarria I...
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Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile
Conquistador Pedro de Valdivia founded Santiago here on February 12, 1541. Eventually two Spanish fortresses were erected on the hill, alongside early hermitages and Chile’s first astronomical observatory. You'll also find one of the...