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Sicily

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Via dei Biscottari, 90134 Palermo PA, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza In the area of the Norman palace, near the market, there are still some little medievalbotteghe(shops) below the level of the palace. Via dei Biscottari is where they used to make the pastries and cookies for the king. There is...
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Piazza del Parlamento, 90134 Palermo PA, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza Within the Palace of the Normans, there’s a chapel of the kings. “It’s sumptuous,” Fabrizia says, “all covered with mosaics. It’s like getting inside a golden box of jewelry.” Piazza del Parlamento 1 This story appeared in the...
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Via dei Benedettini, 20, 90134 Palermo PA, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza This 12th-century Norman church [St. John of the Hermits] has five Arab-inspired red domes. It’s a narrow little church with a garden filled with jasmine and succulents— a very peaceful place. Via dei Benedettini 3 This story...
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Piazza Verdi, 90138 Palermo PA, Italy
You might recognize Palermo's opera house, the Massimo Theater, from its role in The Godfather: Part III—the movie's final scenes were filmed here. Though it echoes classical style, the building is young compared to Palermo's other...
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Piazza Marina, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy
Perhaps my favorite thing about Palermo, aside from the colors, the people, the life and the beach, is a plate full of panelle, fried chick pea fritters, for lack of a better term. In Piazza Marina, I usually head to Nni Franco U' Vastiddaru or...
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98050 Lipari, Province of Messina, Italy

With its small shops and outdoor restaurants, the long Corso Vittorio Emanuele in Lipari Town was made for strolling. The Ottoman admiral Barbarossa wreaked havoc here in 1544; following that, Spanish rulers built the imposing citadel over a Greek...

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93100 Caltanissetta, Province of Caltanissetta, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza

At her cooking school in Regaleali, Fabrizia Lanza (right) learns from Sister Lidia how to make zuccata, a traditional candied squash dessert.

Name:Fabrizia Lanza
Age: 49
Hometown:Palermo, Italy
Occupaton:Formerly an art historian...

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90010 Ficarazzi PA, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza This central square is famous for carts that serve Sicilian antipasti in front of the Oratorio di San Lorenzo, which has amazing 18th-century sculptures, perhaps the most extravagant art Sicily produced at the time. Via dell’...
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Southern Europe
by Fabrizia Lanza People line up at seven or eight in the morning to order a big dish of soup made with tripe and intestines. You can getpanelle(pancakes made from chickpeas) hot from the vendor. They also sell the most famouspanino—spleen stuffed...
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93100 Caltanissetta, Province of Caltanissetta, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza Palermo’s art museum, which houses medieval and modern works, is around the corner from the Mura delle Cattive (Wall of Widows). It’s in a well-preserved palace of the 15th-century Gothic Catalan epoch—we belonged to Spain at the...
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93100 Caltanissetta, Province of Caltanissetta, Italy
by Fabrizia Lanza A restaurant built within Palermo’s ancient walls, where chariots were once housed. Under these enormous vaults there is a library, a garden, and a bar—it’s a fantastic place for drinks. Foro Umberto I This story appeared in the...
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Via Pardo, 29, 95131 Catania CT, Italy
Make a meal of fresh sea urchin at Osteria Antica Marina among the bustle of the fishmongers in Catania. This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue. Image courtesy of Osteria Antica Marina
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Contrada Barbaro, 91013 Calatafimi TP, Italy
The ancient archeological site of Segesta was once a major city of Sicily’s original Elymian people, who adopted much of their culture from the Greeks. Among the ruins at Segesta is a wonderfully intact Greek-style temple and an outdoor...
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90015 Cefalù, Province of Palermo, Italy
With the abundance of Sicilian produce (think lemons, oranges, eggplant, tomatoes from Mt Etna) - it is no wonder that the early morning markets are overwhelmed with options. Grab your bags and head out early to get the best variety --- and make...
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Vulcano, 98055 Lipari, Province of Messina, Italy
What’s that smell? It’s the entire island of Vulcano, the Aeolian Island most famous for its clumpy, mineral-rich mud baths and healing hot springs. Laghetto di Fanghi is the name of the famed mud bath closest to the dock. A massive pit of greyish...
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Contrada Regaleali, 90020 Sclafani Bagni PA, Italy
Regaleali is one of five estates run by the Tasca d’Almerita family. Call ahead to book a vineyard tour. Snacks such as estate-made ricotta accompany the wine tasting. Visitors can stay overnight in the estate’s baglio, a farm villa. Villa Tasca,...
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Via dei Mille, 4, 95030 San Pietro Clarenza CT, Italy
Sicilian vintner Arianna Occhipinti enrolled in RAGUSA winemaking school at the age of 18. Since then, the 32-year-old has gained notoriety for the natural wines she produces from her vineyards in Vittoria, on the southeastern tip of Sicily. Her...
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SP79 Km 91, 92013 Contrada Passo di Gurra, Menfi AG, Italy
The cookbook author Judy Witt Francini offers weeklong culinary tours in Sicily that include cooking classes at this renowned winery.
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92017 Sambuca di Sicilia, AG, Italy
Brothers Gunther and Klaus Di Giovanna oversee the vineyards their great-grandfather first planted in 1860. Tours are by appointment and include a tasting of the estate’s wine and olive oil. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.
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90027 Petralia Sottana, Province of Palermo, Italy
One of Sicily’s most historic producers of nero d’Avola, Feudo Montoni estate dates to the 16th century. Its Vrucara wine, made by 44-year-old winemaker Fabio Sireci, is considered one of the best expressions of the grape. This appeared in the May...
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91010 San Vito Lo Capo TP, Italy
In the height of summer, this national park is swarmed with Sicilians worshiping the sun and sea. To get to the beach coves you hike a hot and dusty path along the mountain cliffside. As we ascended the craggy cliff down to the second cove, we...